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71 m35a2 no start, no fuel

wheelspinner

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I guess then there should be a rule to thoroughly research your question without copping out that I tried, I can't or whatever. I have done it once. As this is your first time I simply stated the items that caused me grief. Can you time it Tom's way? Sure. As it was my first time I preferred the backup of checking the valve location to be SURE. There are many steps. Even Tom's explanation is not all inclusive. But I'm sure someone will hand feed the knowledge to you that already exists.
 

Ja1904

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And don't get me wrong I do appreciate your input you have done it and that's good info, what bothers me is all the other BS that comes up just cause people want to talk , this thread should have been 1 page, LOL, I'm breaking it all down and swapping parts ill let you know how it turns out thanks to the couple guys that could give me some in put. this forum need more people like you guys willing to state your experience and tricks of the trade!
 

Ja1904

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on another note you talk about just handfeeding Info ? I thought the point of a forum is to help others and relay info on the subject of the forum you join,

:rules:
Some times this forum seems like a excluive club, not a forum. some people are quick to to give the finger, I do enjoy the info, just rember something might be easy for you, might not be as easy for others
 
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Warthog

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One of the points of THIS forum is to help each member be self sufficient and to learn about their vehicles. Being spoon fed information usually isn't the way.

Five years ago I had never been near a MV. Today most of the CUCV owners think I am one of the CUCV electrical gurus. How did I get there? By reading and doing. While I don't know about all the vehicles, with my learning how to read the manuals, I can usually find the answer to any issue within a few minutes.

I will be the first to admit that I have not read all the manuals. However I have skimmed through enough of them that I know how they are laid out and where to look if I need an answer.
 

m-35tom

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just to be clear, my explanation is for replacing the pump on a known good formerly running truck. putting a pump on an unknown engine or one that is apart and out of time is only slightly more involved. the key to installing any of this is understanding the relationship of components in a 4 cycle engine and knowing that the HH turns at cam speed while the IP shaft turns at crank speed.
 

Ja1904

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Don't think I did not try I looked and did my research first before I ever post any thing that's why I don't post much I can find most for the stuff in the TM's but sometimes what you see and what you read don't add up and/or I like to have a 2nd or 3rd opinion on a subject if I question the way something looks
 

Ja1904

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got her running and tuned perfect. the problem was the fuel pivot arm under the FDC it broke on both sides got a new one put it in and the injector pump works great, then did a quick reset on the timing to make sure it was right, thanks to tom that was easy, heres a few pics
 

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Ja1904

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The truck is running good, the idle seams to be low like 500 rpm (shakes a little) I like it like about 7-800 rpm to run smother should I use the low idle adjustment in the fuel lever or slight adjustment in the timing?
What do you thing is a good idle speed for the m35a2 turbo?
 

msgjd

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I know this is an old post but it is still comes up in simple HH searches. I have had the button fall off in two trucks (5T and deuce) within 6 months of each other. I dabbed a small amount of "jb weld" on each of the spokes of the retainer clip. Many years and hours on each since then, so far so good. :driver:






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M38A1, M38A5, M100, spen M100-style w/hoops, M416, M880, M890, Utica Bend M49C, Studebaker M108, AMG M109A3 (multifuel), 2-M35A2 (sold), IHC M51, 2-M51A2, IHC M52, IHC M62 (w/A2 "upgrade" :cookoo:), AMG M813, AMG M817, Kaiser/Jp XM818, 2-AMG M818, M750 expandable parts storage semitrailer, M116A2 w/1-mep003, 2-mep003 stationaries, '51 IHC L-172 us army dump, multitudes of non-mil heavy trucks/equip. Looking to trade one 2000 FLD120 w/new DD60 475hp & 10sp fuller for M915A3 (same basic truck), bad knee, want automatic tranny version. Former MSG + retired heavy equip contractor . MTOC-Eng FLW, MO 1970's and other line units incl armor 'till jan91. VSG 2000's
 
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frank8003

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DO NOT yank out the fuel "engine stop" handle as if it is just a shut down lever.
Just pull it out median fast speed and listen to Her or even pull that handle out SLOW and listen.
This ain't no toyota.
There is many things happening in the engine controls that will cause a loose button.
Does the governor go wide open on shutdown? Thimk.
 

msgjd

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I concur. Just go slow until it dies out. I think I remember a PS article about it in the 70's. I also remember a few mad drivers yanking the things almost out of the dash.

I recently picked up a 3rd truck with the button problem. GSA said it had a bad injection pump, a no-start/no-run salvage sale. I got it cheap, and as I suspected it was only the button (and a seized impeller on in-tank pump). I have owned 7 multi's over the last 30 years and still have five out in the yard. Only two buttons fell off on my watch, and that was many years ago. I had let them sit too long.

(..Not because I would ever yank anything...)

:funny:
 
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