802 tripping overload

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

Loose or not 100% connections cause lots of issues.

Say you have new batteries and the connection is dirty and loose. You go to start and you get a click. You take the battery term off and clean it, and bolt it back properly and it all works great.

The problem you are having could all come back to the mice. All that crap and pee they left. It might take some undoing screws, and cleaning the blades and putting them back. All your rotating switches should be sprayed and worked back and forth. They are made to what is known as a cleaning swipe. It takes some time, but after multiple switch turns they will clean up and make a better connection. The same thing for the VM meter selection. If the gauges are not reading correctly, it needs to be switched around a bunch of times.

Careful to not over do your generator. Start with small load for a while and build up over time. After a overload, they is kinda a time delay before things are totally reset. Bring the unit down to no load for 5 minutes, then reset, then gradually add load.

of course a good thing to know.
MEP-802/803 Filters and Parts

and loading some units here Acquired a Military surplus load bank

 

[Guyfang]

The indicator lights on the S7 (battle short) and S5 (Ac interrupter) are actually linked together on TB6-6 so a spike could have taken them both out. Look at R15 on the burden resistors because the battle short indicator DS6 goes through there. DS7 which is for the AC interrupter goes to K8 (overload / short circuit relay).

Just for fun make sure the connections on K1 are correct also. Look more at the small leads on top.

Thats the reason I asked. R15 is there to protect the lights. They are LED's, and unadulterated 24 volts is a bit much for them. Look at the TM for the lights and how to test them. There are three terminals on the socket. Ground, then a hot wire for press it test, and the third wire is from the latching part of the circuit. It's beginning to sound like you may have several problems in the set.

 

[CapePrep]

I have just gone thru the schematic and it is very difficult to follow since I am new to these and not an electrical engineer. And, I tried printing them, but they are large files and either print very small or are too large for one piece of paper. So, I try to jump around on my computer. I just spent the last hour trying to locate the "burden resistor" locations. I see the R15 on the schematic and also the others, but have no idea where or what they look like. I did a search here with no luck. So, those of you with prior experience would be a great help in actually telling us newbies where some of this stuff is. I am very happy to put the work in, but feel like I have spent hours trying to decipher these very detailed TM's, misc manuals that all of you reference. I am getting a little more knowledgable, but the learning curve is steep.

 

[kloppk]

The burden resistors, R15 and a few other parts are mounted on a metal plate that's inside the control cube. Open the meter panel and lower it down. Then look on the left side of the back wall of the cube. You should see this with the components you are looking for.
(Double click image to enlarge)

 

[Guyfang]

Go to the TM forum. Look at the thread, "All the manuals you need for the MEP-802A". Open the thread. Look down to the last row. First TM on the left side, is not a TM. It just has a TM cover on it, and is labeled "Schematics for the 10 KW". Keep in mind, there is for all practical purposes, no electrical difference between the 5 and 10 KW gen set. Download this "TM". It has all the schematics you need, in a size you can print and use. The quality of the printing, is not the best, but its what we have until several of us get something better worked up.

If you have not downloaded everything in that thread, and at least scanned through it, you might think about doing it now.

To make it easier to find and identify parts and widgets, the "electrical" name is normally printed next to the widget. It makes it very much easier to get acquainted with your set, if you remove the tops, and leave them off, while working on it. The more often you look at something, the more it sticks in your head. I also am a meanie. I often refer to widgets only by their electrical name, so to encourage folks to look at the schematics. Don't forget, you have them also on the doors of the gen set. You are starting to get the hang of it. Have patience with yourself.

 

[CapePrep]

Guy, thanks for those tips on getting a printable version. I know that will help immensely. I took the top off again today to recheck everything. Once I started poking around I realized that everything inside there is labeled! I.E. K1, TB6, S8, etc. That was a huge help. I did run it up today and ran it for a good hour with the 4KW load(space heater)with no problems. I am pulling 14amps on L1 and L3 and running at maybe 50%. I tried to get the 2nd 4KW heater to go and it just trips the overload and shuts everything down. I rigged up an outlet so that I was able to run 2 more heaters on. Basically added an outlet for L1 and another for L3 so it is balanced. 1st heater is 1.5KW, the second I think is 1KW. I turn them on one at a time. Jumps to 75% and than the 3rd one gets us to 95%(ish). I am pulling 24.5A on L1 and 20+/-A on L3. I had the small 1KW heater on a low setting, I kick it to high and it trips the overload and shuts everything down. I can't seem to get the gauge above 100% or for the engine to start to work like I have seen on videos. Still need to troubleshoot R15 and order more bulbs for DS6 and 7. The Battleshort doesn't seem to work without the bulb. Not sure why that is. I did spray S6 and S8 a lot with contact cleaner and worked them back and forth many times. Not confident to hook this up to the house yet since I can't seem to get it bog down when it starts to reach it's limits. I know the math of 5KW and I am at that on L3 and over it for L1. Everyones thoughts would be greatly appreciated. On my way to download those TMs...

 

[jamawieb]

So it sounds like working the switch has helped. So keep on that path, on some units I have to turn the switch back and forth at least 2-3 dozen times before it would act right.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
It might need more running time. Running it at a good 95% for 5 hours would help.

 

[CapePrep]

Day, I plan on running it today for a few hours, will report back. I am just wondering why it trips the overload so easily. I have been using your video as a reference on your 802. Mine won't bog down at all, just trips the overload and that is it.

 

[Guyfang]

DS7 has no impact on the operation of S7.

 

[CapePrep]

Wanted to close this thread out, or at least bring some conclusion to it. After much tutelage from many here, a few PM's with suggestions of solutions, I have solved the issue with the unit tripping my overload without even getting to 100%. I sourced a K8 from eBay for cheap money and installed that. Realized that I could get electric contact cleaner inside S8 and S6 if I held the spray nozzle to the side of the switches where the connections are. You can actually see the mechanism in side and I just kept continuing to spray and work both switches. So, now, start 'er up, load it up with my multiple space heaters and I get to 125% and it stays there. I turn on both 4KW heaters and she chokes right down and wants to stall but won't trip the overload! I obviously didn't keep it there and won't do that, but it seems to be resolved. Thank you all!!Now time to really let it run for a few hours at 100%ish and than start my install for back up power to the house. Will continue to source an 803A though.....

 

[Light in the Dark]

Good luck in your searching. You might want to spend some quality time with that 802. You might find that you dont really need the 803. Especially when prices are sky high (I mean, look at this beauty and what it went for just a few days ago!). Madness reigns.

 

[CapePrep]

prices

Light, I saw that one!! I also saw the result and I have to believe that it was some kind of a typo. Units right next to it on the auction went for $1700/$1900 respectively! I pray that mangled one didn't go for that much!

Good luck in your searching. You might want to spend some quality time with that 802. You might find that you dont really need the 803. Especially when prices are sky high (I mean, look at this beauty and what it went for just a few days ago!). Madness reigns.

View attachment 717374

 

[Light in the Dark]

Machines used to be cheap (or inexpensive, rather)... I feel those days are behind now for good though. Just a bit under 2 years ago I got a preserved machine (97 803A) under 100 hours for $800 out of MCLB Albany. And that wasn't out of the ordinary.

 

[jamawieb]

Good luck in your searching. You might want to spend some quality time with that 802. You might find that you dont really need the 803. Especially when prices are sky high (I mean, look at this beauty and what it went for just a few days ago!). Madness reigns.

View attachment 717374

Holy crap! I need to up my prices. I'm selling fully load tested units for $3,300 and I have one with 200hours on it for $4,000.

 

[Guyfang]

Wanted to close this thread out, or at least bring some conclusion to it. After much tutelage from many here, a few PM's with suggestions of solutions, I have solved the issue with the unit tripping my overload without even getting to 100%. I sourced a K8 from eBay for cheap money and installed that. Realized that I could get electric contact cleaner inside S8 and S6 if I held the spray nozzle to the side of the switches where the connections are. You can actually see the mechanism in side and I just kept continuing to spray and work both switches. So, now, start 'er up, load it up with my multiple space heaters and I get to 125% and it stays there. I turn on both 4KW heaters and she chokes right down and wants to stall but won't trip the overload! I obviously didn't keep it there and won't do that, but it seems to be resolved. Thank you all!!Now time to really let it run for a few hours at 100%ish and than start my install for back up power to the house. Will continue to source an 803A though.....

Everything comes to the man, (or woman) with patience.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Holy crap! I need to up my prices. I'm selling fully load tested units for $3,300 and I have one with 200hours on it for $4,000.

Go look through the history over the last 2 months through GP on 803s... both rolling stock and non (but especially non). Prices are higher here in the northeast by simple supply/demand/cost to bring in.... but 4k is definitely a bargain for a 200hr machine right now, resale.

 

[Farmitall]

Good luck in your searching. You might want to spend some quality time with that 802. You might find that you dont really need the 803. Especially when prices are sky high (I mean, look at this beauty and what it went for just a few days ago!). Madness reigns.

View attachment 717374

I saw that too, madness truly does reign these days.

Makes me almost feel like I stole mine.......

 

[csmitty]

****, yea my 802 will probably be around for a while unless I can find a sub $1k 803 that hasn't been dropped.

I got my 94 802A 2500hr almost 2 years ago for $450 out the door. Got lucky and it was a runner. Still need to clean the reconnection switch on mine as it overload trips when the HW heater comes on.