802a auto acceleration and ground fault issues

[Bcoffey1123]

Just purchased an 802a with 79 hrs on it for $1000 dollars this weekend.. I have downloaded all manuals and can't seem to figure out two issues.
Issue 1: When starting, i have the ability to adjust the frequency to 60. Once up and running the engine continues to accelerate and frequency maxes out. I have no ability to adjust up or down.

Issue 2: Ground Fault will reset but continues to trip as soon as a I plug anything into the receptacle. I have located the breaker inside the panel to the left, but doesn't seem to be tripped.

Thoughts?

 

[Kenny0]

First off, make sure you properly ground the generator before running it. One of the manuals will tell you how to do that. Is the engine actually increasing in rpm or are you just assuming it is because of what the frequency meter says? How is the voltage? Holding the start switch on start after the engine starts, what do your gauges say, Volt and Frequency? No, that won't hurt anything, starter should automaticly release after the engine reaches a certain rpm. Release the start switch and what does the volt and frequency meters say. Never idle the motor down, once set to 62 Hz with no load, leave it there all the time, adjust the frequency a Hz or 2, but never idle it down. Here's a good thread here to look at
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/frequency-meter-erratic.192089/#post-2251019 . Do you have a kill-a-watt meter or a multimeter with frequency measurement. At 60 Hz the engine will be running at 1800 rpm.
For the ground fault; try plugging in something else and see if that works, if what you are plugging in has any leakage it will trip, that is what it' supposed to do. The ground faults do fail, so could be that also. Hardware stores should have those.

 

[Guyfang]

Just purchased an 802a with 79 hrs on it for $1000 dollars this weekend.. I have downloaded all manuals and can't seem to figure out two issues.
Issue 1: When starting, i have the ability to adjust the frequency to 60. Once up and running the engine continues to accelerate and frequency maxes out. I have no ability to adjust up or down.

Issue 2: Ground Fault will reset but continues to trip as soon as a I plug anything into the receptacle. I have located the breaker inside the panel to the left, but doesn't seem to be tripped.

Thoughts?

Like Kenny told you, you need to insure that what you see on the meter is what you have at the outlets. BUT, if you can hear the engine RPM going higher, you may have a linkage problem, with the L5 fuel solenoid. Did you down load the TM for the SS forum? If so there is a procedure included EXTRA, that shows how to set the L5 linkage.

Your discription of the CB3, (GFI) is a bit confusing to me. So, like Kenny suggested, try something else. But if it tripping, then the small switch to the left has to be moving. It has to be in it tripped mode. You said it it doesn't seem to be tripped? So what do you mean when you say its tripped? Check the two wires, (Black and White) form TB5-4 and TB5-6, to the CB3. Then check the two wires from CB3, (Black and White) to J1, (120 volt outlet) to see if one of them is cut, broken, loose or rubbed through. Also check that wire # 100Al, (ground) is good from J1 to TB5-7.

 

[robson1015]

Remember that the receptacle has a 10amp limit also.....

 

[Bcoffey1123]

Thanks for the info! I will check it out this weekend. Anyone have the link to the manuals? I need the extra, for adjusting the fuel solenoid.. doesn't want to shut down either.

I need to figure these things out.. I have another 802a and 803a on the way.

 

[Kenny0]

Here's your manuals - Thanks to Guyfang https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...-generator-and-mep-803-10kw-generator.148871/

 

[Ray70]

A few thoughts on the GFCI, so you are saying the GFCI button on the front of the warning light panel is tripping, but the circuit breaker ( rocker switch inside control panel ) is not, correct?
This means the GFCI is sensing a fault, but the outlet it is not being overloaded.
I saw this once before and it turned out to simply be a bad courtesy outlet.
Unscrew the cover plate and pull out the receptacle and replace it with a good quality receptacle and see if that fixes your problem.
While you're in there make sure the wires haven't rubbed or chaffed on anything.
If that doesn't fix it, the GFCI module has gone bad. Not very likely to be the module... the problem is probably just a bad receptacle. Not sure if they go bad from water getting in them or what, but I've seen it happen.

 

[Ray70]

On the engine RPM, once warmed up and it is accelerating out of control, if you push the throttle knob all the way in does it still rev up out of control?
If so, take a look at the throttle lever where the cable attaches to the motor. If the curved throttle lever's "step" is all the way counter clockwise touching the low speed adjustment screw ( rear most of the 2 long parallel horizontal screws, probably with some red paint on it ) and the RPM's are still up high, I think that probably indicates an issue with the internal governor or fuel rack issue.
Check the location of the throttle lever and let us know if you still get high RPM when the linkage is in the "low speed " ( counter clockwise ) position.
Also, when you turn the machine off, does it shut off and quickly stop within 3-4 seconds or does it continue to run a little and slowly die down and stop?
Excessively long shut-off time may also be an indication of a fuel rack / metering pump lever pin engagement issue.