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802a help

kloppk

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Did you have loads connected when you closed the contactor? If so what and how much load?

Did you have a chance to check the resistance of R10, R11 and R12 with the set OFF?
 

Guyfang

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You know, I had a very similar problem several times, just like this one. What I found was I had a wire rubbed through in the control panel, on the left side. One of the wires going to/coming from R10, R11, R12. The only way I found this, was at night. We were working 24/7 trying to get a Unit ready to deploy. I was trying to take voltage readings on the R10 or R11. It was dark in the control panel, and when I pushed S5 up to close the CB, POP, I saw a spark. If it had not been so dark, would have never found this fault. Or not soon, any way. It could be, that sometimes the wire is not making contact, and vibrations sooner or later move the wire, making contact. Or, it may make contact, like right now, and there has not been enough vibrations to move the wire.

Also be advised that its not uncommon, for the "posts" that the wires are are soldered to on the resisters, to have a bad solder joint. Check them out with a fine eye.
 

jjb2001

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Did you have loads connected when you closed the contactor? If so what and how much load?

Did you have a chance to check the resistance of R10, R11 and R12 with the set OFF?
Did you have loads connected when you closed the contactor? If so what and how much load?

Did you have a chance to check the resistance of R10, R11 and R12 with the set OFF?
R10 is .9
R11 is 2
R12 is 7.2
A wire has come off the solder joint. On the left side of r12.
 

kloppk

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Forgot the CT's are in parallel with those resistors so the resistance measured at R10 and R11 may be right.

The wire that fell off was probably the problem! Bad solder joint or it was vibrating and gradually breaking the strands of the wire over time.
 

Guyfang

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A good tip. I use middle sized wire ties, instead of the small ones, on the wire harness there in the corner. When I cut the ends off, I turn the cable tie around, so the end of the tie, where it goes through itself, is against the wall. That way, wires can not rub through on the control cube wall. Its little things like that, a wire rubbed through, that can drive you nuts, trying to find it. Same thing with turning the lights off, to help find a short. Little tricks, but can save you mucho time and nerves.
 

jjb2001

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Just want to say thanks for all the help so far. You guys are a stand up bunch. I’m gonna solder that wire tonight as well as add my 100 gallon aux tank. I’m away for work 8 days at a time so I need it to run and not have to have some one fuel it while I’m away.
 

jjb2001

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Seems to work. I’ll check on it in the morning and see if it’s still working or not.
On another note where would a guy pickup a emergency stop switch, a knob for the voltage select switch and either a coolant gauge or sensor. I can’t find the sensor to test it.
 

Guyfang

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Seems to work. I’ll check on it in the morning and see if it’s still working or not.
On another note where would a guy pickup (Do you have the TM's downloaded? Have you tried to put NSN's and part numbers into your search machine?) a emergency stop switch, a knob for the voltage select switch, (Do not think you will find one. They normally come with the switch. If you are really lucky, someone with a bad switch MIGHT have one.) and either a coolant gauge or sensor, (This sounds like you need to trouble shoot instead of throwing money at the set. Whats wrong? Meter not reading? Pegged?). I can’t find the sensor to test it, (This sounds like you need to look at the TM.)
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