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86 M1009 Project

tombguard500

New member
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D.C.
Hello all!

My first post, I've been a member since I bought my CUCV in 2012 and have been using it for information since.

I have an 86 M1009 with 23000 miles (on the odometer). The body was in decent shape and I figured I would replace the seals and tune it up. 2+ years later and below is what I have. Keep in mind, it's not even close to being done yet and I have a lot I have not listed.

Banks Turbo Setup
T400 Rebuild Kit
Transfer Kit Rebuild Kit
Energy Suspension body mounts
Energy Suspension bushings
ORD Steering Box Brace (mine has no cracks)
ORD 1 inch body lift
ORD Shackles (Front)
ORD Sway Bar Quick Disconnect
ORD Greasable Bushings front and rear
ORD Shackle Mounts
ORD Tie Rod
Rear Brake Conversion kit
Doghead Relay
2 Rough Country Lift
Bilstein Shocks (5000 series)
Machined 6.2 block magna fluxed, Line Bore checked, bored .75 by Trinity Castings, Dallas TX
Brand new 6.5 heads
Original Crankshaft polished to STD.
LMC Battery Tray
Red Tops
LMC Headlight Conversion and harness
ARP head studs
Heath Diesel Main Stud Fastening Kit
DSG Idler kit
130GPM HO Serpentine Water Pump
Peninsular V Belt HO Water Pump
All versions of Serpentine brackets
GM diesel Tachometer
All U Joints
Suburban fuel tank
Walbro Lift Pump (stock lift pump is a place holder, backup)
Spin on Fuel Filters
New Ball Joints
Aluminum radiator
Dual Maradyne Fans

I can go on and on, lots more, but I have a problem:

1. As pictured, I have a HMMWV Coolant Crossover Tube (Last added photo) as well as the Dual Thermostat crossover. I want to keep the engine cooler then usual. Should I:

a. Use the Peninsular (causing me to go V Belt) HO 105GPM water pump and the HMMWV crossover? Can I use the Dual T Stat housing with the Peninsular Water Pump?

b. Use the 130GPM Serpentine water pump with the dual T Stat? The problem lies in the fact that if I use the serpentine setup, I will not be able to use the Serpentine brackets due to clearance issues. The left belt tensioner rubs against the Dual T Stat housing. What should I do?

2. If I do go with the Serpentine setup, can I keep the 24V setup without going to 2 alternators? I do want to keep the electrical system as is.

Lastly with this, what is the added benefit of serpentine? If I go serpentine, can I use the nostalgic AC kit?


Thanks All, pics of my engine are below. FYSA, I have never built an engine before and hope I do not pay the price for my ignorance...

Again, this site is awesome!

Thanks!
 

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Al Harvey

Active member
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Location
Dover, TN
I don't think the Nostaligic AC kit will work with a serpentine since it's designed for the factory setup, but you probably need to contact them and see on that one.

As for the 24V without 2 alternators, I don't see where that would work. You could put a 24V generator on there, but that would want to charge the batteries the same. With most of the vehicle running off the front battery only it wouldn't charge correctly. The rear battery is for starting, slaving, glow plug relay (unless you remove the resistor and run it to 12V), radios, and I think that's it or at least I can't think of anything else right now. I'm pretty sure I missing another 24V item.

Someone else with some more knowledge should jump in and help answer your other questions and elaborate on my answers. lol
 

212sparky

Well-known member
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48
Location
Monroe/ Ohio
The engine looks good. Why do you want to keep it cooler than usual? I have never had good results from my diesel powered equipment when I have run it below 170. Wetstacking becomes a big issue. If you are going to be operating in extreme environments the added capacity would be a good upgrade.
 

tombguard500

New member
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Location
D.C.
212 Sparky, thanks! Based on my research, what you are saying lines up with what I'm feeling in regards to being too cool. From what I understand, 6.2's are good in the 190's. I might not go the HO route, D T Stat, but use the Peninsular and V Belt setup for AC Kit ease and a 180 T stat in the HMMWV Crossover.
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Cooperstown NY
It looks great! Sounds like you know what your doing. I think we should be asking your advise on upgrading not the other way around.
 

tombguard500

New member
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Location
D.C.
No, I've let it get out of hand. This cooling dellimma is really vexing. I would like to only address this once given how much of a PITA changing a water pump can be.
 

Al Harvey

Active member
1,152
19
38
Location
Dover, TN
Thanks All, pics of my engine are below. FYSA, I have never built an engine before and hope I do not pay the price for my ignorance...
I gotta ask a question, what is FYSA??? I guess I'm not hip enough, but I have not clue what that one is. :shrugs: Then again I don't tweeter, facebook, or any of that stuff, but curious minds do want to know. lol
 

tombguard500

New member
22
0
1
Location
D.C.
Just a few updates.

I will post a few more tonight as well.

Completed install of:

1. ORD Sway Bar
2. MOOG Ball Joints upper and lower with zero fittings
3. Front Hubs/Rotors
4. Front Hub Bearings
5. 2" Rough Country Lift (front completed)
6. Front axle shaft U Joints
7. Warn Locking Hubs
8. Tie Rod Ends
9. Steering Damper
10. Re Cored Heater Core
11. ORD HD Front Shackle Kit
12. ORD Front Zerk bushing kit

To Do:

1. Rear suspension
2. Rear Disk Conversion
3. Rear axle shaft bearings
4. Press in new U Joints
5. Install engine/rebuilt transmission
6. Install ORD Steering box brace
7. Install ORD Shock mount extension

Engine 2.jpgRotor-Warn.jpgHeater Core 2.jpgEngine 3.jpgEngine 1.jpgSuspension 1.jpgBilsteins.jpgBall Joint 2.jpg
 
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JoshHefnerX

New member
52
2
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Location
Glendale, AZ
It looks like you bed lined or rubber coated the oil pan. If you did indeed do that, you will hinder the cooling of the engine to some degree. The oil does share cooling chores as well.
 

tombguard500

New member
22
0
1
Location
D.C.
Couple of updates:

Pics of ORD Sway Bar
Steering Damper
ORD Tranny Bushings
ORD rear spring shackles
ORD Extended braided brake lines
Firestone A/T Destinations 33x12.5x15
Willwood calipers

20150412_114022.jpg20150412_114029.jpg20150419_142247.jpg20150424_200117.jpg20150426_095520.jpg20150426_095702.jpg20150426_095818.jpg20150426_095818.jpg
 

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forest522

Member
307
3
18
Location
Bernalillo, New Mexico
Firstly, your engine and turbo charger set up look fantastic! Love the black and silver set up!! This is what I love about these rigs, so much room for creativity and relative simplicity.

Also, I have the same tires on my '09 and the M116 trailer she tows once in a while. Love those tires. They are also on my work vehicle - 2012 Tahoe. Only had one fluke of a flat so far and have driven some crazy forest roads!

Again, your photos are inspiring - great work and please continue with the updates!!!
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
I'm familiar with most of ord's stuff
BUT not their sway bar, can you post pics ?

edit: Did you mean sway bar disconnects ???
 
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tombguard500

New member
22
0
1
Location
D.C.
Forest522, thank you for your feedback.

86M1028, thank you and you are correct, I meant Sway Bar Quick Disconnect.

However, I had to halt with the braided brake lines. The brake line banjo nuts are supposed to be 7/17x20 and the ones I ordered were the wrong ones.

Sending them back for exchange.

This weekend, I'm installing my Bilsteins in the rear.

Below are pics of the rims and tires installed in the front.

Rims & Tire 2.jpgRims & Tires 1.jpg
 

muddobber40

Member
116
4
18
Location
la cygne, ks
Im not a big fan of NAP's a/c set up, but I do like Vintage Air's. You can order the kit minus compressor. This will allow you to run the factory a/c compressor on your serpentine setup. Below are some pics of one I just installed on a M1009 sold to gentleman in LA. it was still in progress at the time of the photos..all missing pieces are on now The turbo set up and serpentine set up are off a 95 6.5 . Nice build btw
 

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