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- eldersburg maryland
ebay feedback of 0 (zero) as a seller really means go look in person. I would love to see the pics from the listing. PM me??
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
How to post pictures-a tutorial go to post #33 for updated info.I'd upload a thread of pics for you all if I knew how, but I took 20 something pictures.. gas tank rot, frame rot, body rot, ripped 'new soft top,' no working lights, actually one headlight works...worked.. rather. lol. cracked 'new' window glass..rotted seals. rotted tires... wood block chocks as a lift and bed rest.. HMMM...brakes have ZERO sensitivty, trans grinds in every gear. two functioning gauges, every gauge painted over... broken air tank drain plugs .. air tank spews oil all over.. rust is EVERYwhere.. holes in floor pans... no horn...NO parking brake..he said it didn't fit with the 'new' SRT leather seats...(they're ripped at the seams), ...so he removed the whole brake...? Rotted out radiator... all hoses and electrical wire dry rotted through.. rusted out intake ..you name it I got it .. spent 5k in repairs thus far... needs a whole paint job though..a real one.
Registration number on hood is not something to worry about as hoods are swapped all the time, but when you found the Vin # on the frame where exactly is it? The only reason I ask is many folks in the past thought they had it only to discover it was the part number for the frame, not the Vin. Also a picture would help.My data plate is false. I found the vin on the frame rail but where exactly do I scrape off paint to find the registration/hood number? I searched all over and cant seem to find it
Thanks
The frame matches with a 66, as do both axle tags. I know 12,6 is absolutely high; however I purchased it with the confidence that it was fully restored... I'm calling the seller tomorrow. It's not an 86 because the data plate is false. Also, VIN was lower left of front area of frame, near steering box. I also sent the seller pictures despite his claims. He failed to work with me on anything, actually. I asked the moderator to delete his post as I feel it's inappropriate to be posting a rebuttal when I kept his name hidden. Actually, he was rude enough to tell me he was done talking to me and insisted that my parents call him...... I'm 20 years old........I don't believe he's sold any trucks on Ebay given his lack of feedback or a working website. As I said, I'm calling him tomorrow. Despite his claim of "I'd fix what's wrong with it," I actually have records of him stating "not my problem" - Difficult to re-write history when I have documentation of it. If this doesn't end up getting settled smoothly, I will absolutely post an entire thread of feedback, pictures, and all acquired documentation.For the OP, I'll toss out there that mine is a 71' but has a engine that was factory built in '92 and that is how it came from GL. The truck could be a 86, blew it's engine earlier in life and the 66' motor could have been rebuilt by the military and installed in that truck in that motor's "current" configuration. The multi' lived a long life and with exception of the 5,000 motors they bought in the late 80's early 90's, they've all been around for quite sometime. I'll break it down even further. Say your truck was still in the military and blew it's engine. The mechanics will check it over, determine what's wrong and order a new engine. They order it by using the National Stock Number that is assigned to that engine. What they will receive in the container will be NSN ______blank. It will be a "New" _____blank. It is perfectly possible to have a core that was originally new and then later rebuilt 66' model motor in an 86' model truck.
As for the other stuff I read, that sucks but I also read that the guy that sold you the truck want's to talk to you about it. I don't stand on either side of the fence until I read more from both sides. I've never sold a bad truck but I've never sold one that the potential owner didn't go over before money changed hands. I'm more critical of my stuff and I always point out what I consider "bad point's" of a truck I'm trying to sell. That save's problem's later on I guess. I've never sold a Deuce or anything for that much money. 12,600 before shipping. Man I'd drive you a nice truck to NJ for that much!!!! Most of mine go in the 3 to 4 range but they're not bobbed and I've not sold anything in about 2 years.
I had locked the thread until discussing it with other mods and the opened it back up. If you are going to call someone out then you can fully expect a rebuttal. Sounds like he is willing to work with you.I asked the moderator to delete his post as I feel it's inappropriate to be posting a rebuttal when I kept his name hidden. Actually, he was rude enough to tell me he was done talking to me and insisted that my parents call him...... I'm 20 years old........I don't believe he's sold any trucks on Ebay given his lack of feedback or a working website. As I said, I'm calling him tomorrow. Despite his claim of "I'd fix what's wrong with it," I actually have records of him stating "not my problem" - Difficult to re-write history when I have documentation of it. If this doesn't end up getting settled smoothly, I will absolutely post an entire thread of feedback, pictures, and all acquired documentation.
Thank you for everyone's support!
My intent is not to take up for anyone but I gotta state...The frame matches with a 66, as do both axle tags. I know 12,6 is absolutely high; however I purchased it with the confidence that it was fully restored... I'm calling the seller tomorrow. It's not an 86 because the data plate is false. Also, VIN was lower left of front area of frame, near steering box.
My intent is not to take up for anyone but I gotta state...
There are numerous times we've told members the axle tags or engine mfg dates (and any other part mfg date) doesn't mean squat. The only sure way to determine mfg date for civilian registration purposes is to look at the serial number embedded in the frame. All A2's to my knowledge were mfg with serial number is on the drivers side above the axle. If it was a REO or A1 converted to A2, there is a higher probability that the serial number is on the right side above the axle.
When I research vehicles, I could give a #$@% about axle and engine tag numbers...they don't mean #$%@. Stick to the frame serial number as a fact for mfg date, consider the dash plate as evidence, and dump the comments on axle/engine/transmission/tarp/bearing nut/tire/set screw etc etc etc mfg dates.
Also, don't just automatically assume the seller swapped data plates. GL sells lots of truck (albeit only a minority) with incorrect data plates. The old time supply sergeants used the data plate swap as a means to fix errors in their property records more than one. He may have gotten it that way also. Was he wrong is not checking the data plate against the frame? Absolutely, but again, I wouldn't just assume he did it to screw you over.
though I respectfully disagree, you are free to have that opinion and I'm glad you gave the input.However, you should note that with an attitude like that, globalization of anysort would not exist and you would likely not be typing on the computer you're typing it. Buyer's expect a sort of accountability, but then again - this is your opinion and it's great you have one.It's funny that some one would spend such an amount of money with out inspection. I've seen the truck an Drivin it an i thought it was a nice truck. I have also bought a truck from this same person an my experience was good an he was more than far with me. I've aslo have owned a few trucks my self. an even bought some from the Government direct an every one of them have had rebuilds an incomplete paper work. you need to be kickin your self in the ass for not inspecting the truck prior to paying for it . YOU MADE A BAD DECISiON an should not been trying to hang some one out to dry that even offered to buy it back ! I wouldnt give you a DIME BACK .
Maybe you need to go to page 1 of the thread and read from the beginning before you start putting out such aggressive commentary. This began as me asking fellow members WHY my truck's info didn't match. Everything else came thereafter. Check yourself. You don't need to tell me what sort of vehicle I have to buy; thank you though, really! You don't have a leg to stand on as you weren't a part of the seller's and my conversations. There was no 'making it right' - so how bout you stay out of it; you're biased as you know the seller. Thank you. I handled this completely on my own; posted to this site for advice- they figured it out on their own who the person was that I was referring to. Again, check yourself.Your right I do have my own. Just like when i have a problem I handle it on my own. not going around on the web putting the people I have issues with on Blast. before you have givin them the chance to make it right.. a person like you should not have a military truck . you need to go buy a New Ford or Chevy 1ton if you are expecting a perfict truck I have been to rally's an show's an lots of my friends have truck an I dought any of them would meet your expectations.