matt2491
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Fuel filters are from 2020. I will pop them off and take a look.
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8V92 Coughs but Won't Start (SOLVED!)
- Thread starter matt2491
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- 58
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- Eagle River, WI
Slime don't care how old the filters are. The dozer had a small cartridge filter and the slime was easy to see, and it had plugged it up enough to not start, etc. Would start on ether and then die. It's a place to look. Gelling will look cream colored, slime dark, maybe black..
davidb56
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you could also pop the line off the fuel pump discharge and make sure there is flow, then work your way to the injectors.
matt2491
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Replaced the fuel filter today. Old one (2020) was about 3/4 full upon removal, but also rusty inside. I traced the supply line from the tank and I guess someone bypassed the fuel/water separator at some point cause I can't find it. The fuel goes straight from the tank to the pump then to this secondary filter and finally to the injectors.
I filled the new filter to the brim with fresh diesel before installing. I'm not sure how to properly prime the system so I just went ahead and cranked the engine over a bunch. No change in symptom.
I filled the new filter to the brim with fresh diesel before installing. I'm not sure how to properly prime the system so I just went ahead and cranked the engine over a bunch. No change in symptom.
- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
I have 1 of these or similar that I added some push lock hose to and a guage to for checking fuel psi. Normally I put a fitting into the 2nd fuel filter ( which is after the fuel pump) and prime it until I get returns into the fuel tank
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- Beaver Oklahoma
I would plumb the fuel lines properly once you get it running. You can almost use anything that can move fuel through the system so it returns to the tank. I would not run the engine until after unhooking what you use to prime unless you have a check valve in line
If you have corrosion in the fuel filters you may have stuck injectors. Pull a valve cover (the gaskets are reusable) and verify the injectors aren't stuck down. You can also exercise the fuel rack. Any stuck injectors won't change position.
If you do have stuck injectors all is not lost. I believe there is a procedure to use methanol to free up stuck injectors.
If you do have stuck injectors all is not lost. I believe there is a procedure to use methanol to free up stuck injectors.
davidb56
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did you physically check to make sure the fuel pump is actually pumping fuel yet?
davidb56
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they are also pretty easy to remove, disassemble and clean too. care must be taken on adjusting the fuel rack.....its been 40 years since Ive messed with them. I did it in the kitchen (clean stainless tables) of Moores Riverboat Restaurant years ago, for the owners old Lima crane dredge he used to keep the boat floating. It burned up years later.
matt2491
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I don't think the pump is pumping. So I tried priming the system using a vacuum brake bleeder but I don't think I'm doing it right. This is per the TM which says to pull a vacuum from one of the ports on the secondary fuel filter housing. Of course, there is a special tool designed for this, but I thought the brake bleeder might work. Anyway, I'll pump the brake bleeder a bunch and it will draw a bunch of diesel into the canister, but once I stop, the system pulls all the diesel I just pumped out back in...
From the TM:
From the TM:
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- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
I have never use a vacuum to prime. If you were going to do that you would need to pull from the return line for it to be really effective. I normally use a hand pump like I put in a few posts up.
Yes unless you break the vacuum at the line at the fuel tank it could sure pull all your fuel back out to the tank.
Like I said I have not tried a vacuum pump for this but I think if thats what you have put it on the return line and try it. This may take a bit of pumping but it should pull it through the heads and injectors.
The main thing you want is full fuel filters, pump, heads and injectors. If you pull on the return line you will get this if you have no leaks. It looks like if you can pull to your filter housing ( that part is good)
Yes unless you break the vacuum at the line at the fuel tank it could sure pull all your fuel back out to the tank.
Like I said I have not tried a vacuum pump for this but I think if thats what you have put it on the return line and try it. This may take a bit of pumping but it should pull it through the heads and injectors.
The main thing you want is full fuel filters, pump, heads and injectors. If you pull on the return line you will get this if you have no leaks. It looks like if you can pull to your filter housing ( that part is good)
- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
The priming pump they talked about in the tm you posted is similar to the one I posted
matt2491
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Wait... am I supposed to pump fuel IN through that port, not try to suck air out?
- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
Yes that is correct pump fuel into that port.
matt2491
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Doh! I will try that then.
- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
That way you are pushing fuel through the filter, pump, heads and injectors back to tank pushing the air out of the system into the return line and in the fuel tank
matt2491
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Can I use a common fuel transfer hand pump or will it not build the kind of pressure needed?
- 333
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- Beaver Oklahoma
To be honest I don't know if it would work or not.
It might work I just am not sure. Because you do need to build a little psi to prime Because of the clearance in the fuel lift pump.
Years ago I did use a tall thumb pump oil can with a hose on it to prime an engine.
On my m931 there is a hand primer pump mounted right behind the injection pump.
Sometimes when you use the correct it's kind of difficult to think of alternatives
It might work I just am not sure. Because you do need to build a little psi to prime Because of the clearance in the fuel lift pump.
Years ago I did use a tall thumb pump oil can with a hose on it to prime an engine.
On my m931 there is a hand primer pump mounted right behind the injection pump.
Sometimes when you use the correct it's kind of difficult to think of alternatives
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How they use it on the cummins is different than how I would use it on yours because they use the suction to draw the fuel up the suction line of the pump. On yours you need to force the air out of the heads and injectors
Your engine has a gear pump transfer pump and unit injectors. This system is very good at self-priming. You're chasing the wrong problem here. Heck, these Detroits don't even use pressure regulating valves. They have a simple orifice in the return manifold. If you've got fuel pressure you don't have a supply problem.