9.00x20.00 to 11.00x200

[tklm539]

Hello,

I am putting 4 g177 11.00x20.00 on my deuce. I need to remove 4 ND's of the original rims.

I was thinking of doing the labor myself, part to learn how and part to save money. Could anyone tell me if this is possible with little more than a sledge and prybar?

also, can I use the tube for the 9.00x20 in the 11.00x20 or are the tubes size specific? Are there any other parts in the rim that I will need to get?

Thanks very much

Tom

 

[Recovry4x4]

Tom, I had to purchase a bead breaker. I tried with the spud bar, running it over, high lift jack and other method wiith negative results. Perhaps your mileage will vary. There are some interesting threads on breaking down tires.

 

[BFR]

yes it is doable
(here is how) Many thanks to Gimpyrob
http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=201361#201361
I would definately get new tubes and flaps...

FWIW I am a hardcore cheapskate and I still pay someone else to do this....

 

[gimpyrobb]

It is not too hard to do. After I posted that thread, I made one of the slide hammers the other guys mentioned. It works pretty well and doesn't wear out. The wedges I use in that thread eventually flatten out and are useless. Make sure you pull the valve core before you break down the tire.

 

[Recovry4x4]

FWIW I am a hardcore cheapskate and I still pay someone else to do this....

I must be even more hardcore as I can't bring myself to pay for even this. Took years for me to find the "right" deal on ebay for the bead breaker. After doing 5 tires in the recent weeks, it's paid for itself. I have a few left to go but I figure at one a week, I'll be done before summer.

 

[doghead]

Buy new tubes for the 11.00-20 tire size. Also, there are different tubes for radials and bias tires.

 

[tklm539]

That is very helpful.


I am guessing that 11.00x20 tubes and flaps are standard at a truck tire store.

Tom

 

[doghead]

yes

 

[Recovry4x4]

Here is the one I use.
http://www.esco.net/bead_breakers.php
Go to the bottom of the page. It's the 70160. It's slow and dependable. It will be a fixture in my toolbox from now on.

 

[tklm539]

Local tire shop wants 26.50 for the tubes and does not stock 20' flaps.

Is there an online source that anyone uses?

 

[doghead]

Your flaps can be reused. I think I just paid about 10 for tubes(bias) locally. I think there was a thread on where to order tubes awhile ago. Did you try a search? Heres one post I found. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....es+order&sid=81e53158bd09187ecdc808c8c948be25 Price looks close to what you found.

 

[rmgill]

I bought radial tubes as they're thicker and more durable (they have to deal with more flexing by the radial tires). I used a duck billed hammer and got pretty good results. A big tire spoon with rounded edges for leverage on the tire itself is useful as is a set of 3 pry-bars from Sears. Those are very good for working the ring out of the rim carefully.

When you have it apart, take the time to deburr the rim with a file and wire wheel any rust and those burr spots. Pay particular attention to the groove and if you feel very attentive to detail, go ahead and get the rims blasted and reprimed/painted. That'll protect them over the long haul better.

 

[doghead]

Did you see the recent thread by Gimpyrobb on changing tires/breaking beads? its a good one. Gimp, can you put a link up to it?

 

[BFR]

just being nosy, but where are you going to put the four radials?

 

[emmado22]

Dont get too ahead of yourself... Check your PM.

 

[rosco]

The duck billed hammer is standard equipment, when you have nothing else to work with. You just have to learn how to swing it properly. You can make shift a couple of other pry bars. Cleaning of the wheel & the inside of the tire is important. I don't like to leave it wet inside. Replacement of the tube & the flap is very important, so you don't get wrinkles in the tube. Get the valve stem, nicely centered, so its not cocked, by the wheel. If your working real hard doing this, your doing it wrong. Tip: after the air is let out, and your about to pull it apart, put a smooth metal valve cap on the tube valve stem, to protect the end & its threads.

The major tire manufactures have safety bulletins out, on proper procedures. You should look it up and follow it. You CAN, blow yourself up! Chain the tire/wheel, before airing it up.. If you do a couple, then have the opportunity to watch a good tire man, do one, you will learn something. He'll make it look like poetry in motion!

Lee in Alaska

 

[tklm539]

I already have it singled out with g287's, the four new ones will return it to duals.

Emmado22, pm checked and holding

Tom

 

[gimpyrobb]

Did you see the recent thread by Gimpyrobb on changing tires/breaking beads? its a good one. Gimp, can you put a link up to it?

DH, BFR posted it in the third reply.

 

[doghead]

Did you see the recent thread by Gimpyrobb on changing tires/breaking beads? its a good one. Gimp, can you put a link up to it?

DH, BFR posted it in the third reply.

OOPS! my bad, I guess I needed more coffee! Thanks Gimp

I guess I was focused on this in that post!

FWIW I am a hardcore cheapskate and I still pay someone else to do this....

And laughing because it fits me too!

 

[Big Mike's Motor Pool]

i did all my tires and rims with angle irons and an ax. the ones on my deuce were a bear to get apart. soaking them with pb blaster helped. alot. the 5 ton rims i broke down for my tires were easier coming apart. some tires on my deuce had been on the truck over ten years where as the 5 ton my new tires came from recently came out of service and prolly had newer tires on it. also i found that the ring side was alot harder to break the bead on than the rim side. this was like this on all my tires