A few issues and questions

[RiflemanD]

Since I have been enjoying my WC I have noticed a few things. 1. The steering is pretty hard to turn, even for manual steering. 2. I just lost brakes. 3. The fuel gauge does not show a level. 4. The odometer doesn't work but the speedo does. So here's my questions, in order.

1. What would make the steering so hard? It's not AS bad in reverse as it is forward.

2. I see no noticeable leaks as far as the brakes go, however, the pedal will go all the way to the floorboard and then grab just a little. With no discernible leaks, what should I look at first? Wheel cylinders? Is it possible for them to be bad and not leak? If so how would I go about testing them to find the bad one?

3.If I take a test light from the battery to one of the posts on the back of the gauge (the pass. side I believe) it will read a level. Take it off, and it drops down to E where it stays.I was told it has a new sending unit and the ground seems good. Is there something else I should check, or should I just get another float and sending unit?

4. Is there a way to fix the odometer myself or should I just take it in and have the whole speedo assembly rebuilt?

 

[dougimes]

I had steering a little stiff on my WC 21 . Greased all of the joints up front. Got better.

Brakes- if no leaks and you have bled the lines, then its the master cylinder

You can take apart the speedo. could be something obvious. have to gently unroll crip to get it apart

 

[SCSG-G4]

Fuel gauges always lie, but it sounds like you may have a bad ground.
Brakes could be worn out brake drums, where the brake shoes have to move a lot before making contact.

 

[RiflemanD]

Thanks for the input guys! I guess it's time to tear into this thing and get some stuff done.

 

[scottgs]

1. I believe the steering is really stiff on these trucks. It does not have a "recirculating ball" steering box, like most later vehicles do when they have manual steering. Since all things are relative, what are you comparing it to? Is the box, tie-rod ends and axle properly lubed? It's normal to be easier in reverse. The castor/camber angles that cause it to naturally self-center going forward tend to work the opposite in reverse, making it kind of like power steering going backwards.

2. If the pedal is stiff on the second stroke, then your shoes are probably out of adjustment. If it's spongy, there is air in the lines. If it just doesn't work ever, then the master cylinder might be bad. On these trucks, in my limited experience, it's 1,000% (yes, that's One THOUSAND Per Cent) likely that the shoes need adjusting. It is not a trivial process. Are you familiair with adjusting shoes on other older cars? If so, it's still challenging on the Dodge. Get the tech manual and study it. Then go to G741.org and find the procedure for adjusting the shoes which is easier to follow.

3. Sounds like you have a wiring problem with your gauge if it works ok when you connect the test light. With a voltmeter, what do you read on the two terminals at the back of the gauge? and what do you read at the sensor? These readings are the positive voltmeter probe on one terminal at a time, with the negative terminal connected to a solid clean ground. Both readings with the ignition on and nothing anywher eon the vehicle being changed.

4. Good luck on the odometer. I think that might be a felony.

Garret

 

[RiflemanD]

Thanks Garret! I'll have to check the gauge with a volt meter, and I'll go to that site to check the walk through. As far as the odometer, I just want it to start working again.

 

[RiflemanD]

Well, now I have a whole host of other issues. I took the truck to the local museum for Veterans Day, it ran fine getting there. Well time to come home, nothing. It would crank and get fuel but would not start. I have been advised to check the ammeter since it's a six volt system and a drop of just a little could cause this issue. The ignition system other than the switch seems to be only a year old from what the previous owner has stated, and it all looks to be in good shape. I'm getting frustrated to say the least. Is there anything other than the ammeter I should check? I've already checked the battery cable to make sure they are all tight.

 

[RiflemanD]

Well, I guess I should update this. It is currently up and running, I changed out the rotor, points, condensor, and coil. She runs pretty well now, she chugs a bit, but I think there may be some gas in the line. I removed and replaced the master cylinder. I now have the proper slope top in it and after a rebuild and bleed, the brakes work very well. I still haven't gotten to the fuel gauge yet. I also haven't worked on the speedo yet, or the steering. It's been too cold this winter to really work on the truck.