A little assistance please?

[Lartian]

Hello dudes. I'm a new M561 owner from Ohio!

I bought this bad boy from Pennsylvania, pics to come soon.
I bought this with a bad starter, and I'm having trouble removing it. I removed 2 bolts from the block, but it wont budge. Is there another bolt behind what I think is the governor? I downloaded a 100+ page on the 353 detroit diesel engine, but ctrl+f doesn't find anything about the starter mounting bolt pattern. I also did a site specific search about the starter and nothing came up.

Also, about getting the grease job done (oh boy)...
What kind of grease is best used for all the grease joints? I was going to use high temp lithium grease, but I wasn't sure if it had to be moisture inhibiting marine grease. Would it be a bad idea if I put some angle serts in place of the stock serts? I don't wanna screw anything up.

 

[Northsquirrel]

Hello dudes. I'm a new M561 owner from Ohio!

I bought this bad boy from Pennsylvania, pics to come soon.
I bought this with a bad starter, and I'm having trouble removing it. I removed 2 bolts from the block, but it wont budge. Is there another bolt behind what I think is the governor? I downloaded a 100+ page on the 353 detroit diesel engine, but ctrl+f doesn't find anything about the starter mounting bolt pattern. I also did a site specific search about the starter and nothing came up.

Also, about getting the grease job done (oh boy)...
What kind of grease is best used for all the grease joints? I was going to use high temp lithium grease, but I wasn't sure if it had to be moisture inhibiting marine grease. Would it be a bad idea if I put some angle serts in place of the stock serts? I don't wanna screw anything up.

This should get you started most information is there, I'll have to find the rest.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[Jericho]

THREE, use a 3 or 4 inch extension and a socket Some will tell you its tough, piece of cake beats a F4 Phantom Fuel Control. IF the starter solenoid is bad just change it, SYMPTOM is you push the button and you get no engagement , Usually about 30 bucks from Eguipment Sales on Flea bay, STARTER is heavy, don't pinch you fingers or hand , just SLIDE it back, around and out. Usually takes me about 20 min to remove one ( done a few! ) Just a good quality high temp grease, Zerk style really doesn't affect performance Welcome , Wealth of knowledge on here < oh , mine are 12 point starter mount bolts ) have seen 6 point as well.

 

[Lartian]

This should get you started most information is there, I'll have to find the rest.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

My U joints had grease fittings when I bought it. Is that a bad thing?

 

[Lartian]

THREE, use a 3 or 4 inch extension and a socket Some will tell you its tough, piece of cake beats a F4 Phantom Fuel Control. IF the starter solenoid is bad just change it, SYMPTOM is you push the button and you get no engagement , Usually about 30 bucks from Eguipment Sales on Flea bay, STARTER is heavy, don't pinch you fingers or hand , just SLIDE it back, around and out. Usually takes me about 20 min to remove one ( done a few! ) Just a good quality high temp grease, Zerk style really doesn't affect performance Welcome , Wealth of knowledge on here < oh , mine are 12 point starter mount bolts ) have seen 6 point as well.

I know the starter is bad because when I apply 24v to it, it makes a loud PING and the starter body heats up very hot.

 

[Northsquirrel]

My U joints had grease fittings when I bought it. Is that a bad thing?

It depends on if they installed it for later and never used it. If they did however, then they might've already "ruined" the u-joint. I don't mean completely but not suitable for water anymore.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

I know the starter is bad because when I apply 24v to it, it makes a loud PING and the starter body heats up very hot.

Are you sure the engine is not locked up?

 

[Lartian]

Are you sure the engine is not locked up?

Yes. I ran it about 2 miles after we pull started it. THAT was a pain.

 

[combat32]

Pretty sure starter has 3 bolts, you are missing one Troop.

 

[someoldmoose]

Grease first. Royal Purple is all I'll use. Expensive but nothing works better or last longer in wet, nasty environments. Zerks : any place that slips, slides. or rotates should have one. Some places that need them have plugs due to lack of space. Remove the plug, install a Zerk, lube, remove the Zerk and reinstall the plug. A few spots have grease cups that need to be kept topped off (look up and follow the Lube Order for your unit).

Starter : I suspect the armature is seized at the bushing(s). Just needs rebuilt. I know an amazing source if you need the input. If all the bolts are out and it won't move, a few "love taps" applied gently should free it. Lots of penetrating oil around the housing to engine interface helps too.

Always liked the "Goat" - Best of luck with her

 

[m38inmaine]

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your machine, good luck with the starter, that third bolt in the back corner is a challenge.

 

[frank8003]

I just had to read about all this, great title.

 

[Jericho]

Stick an amp collar on the Starter solenoid "power supply lead. crank and observe, Put the collar on the STARTER lead ( bigger of the two) crank and observe, This will tell you which part of the starter is bad, winding or solenoid, GOOD starter shop can do a rebuild, usually runs me around $100 ( tree farmer Skidders ran a 353 in the early years , 24 volt, if you in a forestry area they will know at the shop what you need)If its sizzleing , its drawing AMPERAGE .I keep a spare starter and a spare solinoid , ( my wife insistes I keep a spare for a spare on purpose ) I do ! lol. I Keep a complete goat engine , fresh on a pallet ready to go

 

[Lartian]

Stick an amp collar on the Starter solenoid "power supply lead. crank and observe, Put the collar on the STARTER lead ( bigger of the two) crank and observe, This will tell you which part of the starter is bad, winding or solenoid, GOOD starter shop can do a rebuild, usually runs me around $100 ( tree farmer Skidders ran a 353 in the early years , 24 volt, if you in a forestry area they will know at the shop what you need)If its sizzleing , its drawing AMPERAGE .I keep a spare starter and a spare solinoid , ( my wife insistes I keep a spare for a spare on purpose ) I do ! lol. I Keep a complete goat engine , fresh on a pallet ready to go

Sounds like the solenoid is working but there is sizzling, and it almost turns over. There is a lot of gunk on the starter body so it may be as easy as cleaning it out. I'll get some pictures of it on this weekend. By the way, ALL of the u joints have grease zerks. Does that mean I'd have to replace every one of them if I wanted to swim her, or could I get away with using marine grease to inhibit water?

 

[combat32]

Having grease in the joint is the most important part, the army used GAA, and it was cheap crap. Any good quality grease will do.

 

[Jericho]

having zerks doesn't affect swim, If they are greased the water wont penatrate, If they are dry you may get some water, BUT, you should be greasing until there is no water after submersion any way. Be careful swimming, In some states its a bucket of worms and can led to hefty fines, I register one of mine as a Boat and a Truck but if you sink its BIG MONEY

 

[Lartian]

having zerks doesn't affect swim, If they are greased the water wont penatrate, If they are dry you may get some water, BUT, you should be greasing until there is no water after submersion any way. Be careful swimming, In some states its a bucket of worms and can led to hefty fines, I register one of mine as a Boat and a Truck but if you sink its BIG MONEY

I will do some serious modifications before actually swimming the goat. xD But first thing I need to get this prepped for a 135 mile trip to Kelleys Island which will include a lube job, and oil change. I heard these beasts can overheat easily so I might install an aux radiator into the hood.

 

[Jericho]

If your rad is clean and operating at its designed spec You wont ever over heat, I have driven mine for hours at highway speeds 55 mph and slow in the woods , never got hot, Seldom even really comes up to op temp . So cool you will never get any heat on your FEET
l

 

[Jericho]

The only problem I have had that is annoying is running at 55 plus for extended periods, I sometimes touch 65 on down hill highway , have smoked two Alts this way, seems to be a case of pulley size and rpm, perhaps Alt runs high on rpm and SMOKE EM ! , ( could run without alt on , just wouldn't have lights or gauges ) Installed a prestolite standard 12 volt on my 400 small block Goat , can run up to 70 mph , no electrical issues