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A0, A1, A1R and TM's

GENX

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The LBCD is a device that monitors the alternator load and disconnects the grossly oversized battery bank, using the relays in that added box, to keep them from killing the alternator… probably the biggest problem
That plagues the A0/A1 LMTV is the mismatch they created by pairing a 100A dual volt alt with a 240AH battery.

Your A1 will have at least one added sw(has a red guard) below the dash that allows you to control the disconnect relays and remote ign and start switches over by the turbo on the frame rail. Yours probably has an intake heater vis ether fir cold starts, and a few other refinements over the earlier A1…

The latest version typically referred to as the R has the C7 engine and integrated electronic data-bussed gauges, oh and a 260A alt…
I was told mine has the C7. What way do I verify?
 

GeneralDisorder

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I gave up hope. As General said theA1R is essentially the P2 w/o the armored cab and thus civilian taboo.

View attachment 871863
Except we give these to Ukraine (and the manuals and repair parts) to be captured and reverse-engineered by the Russians. That's all fine but YOU can't own one you militant American!
 

GeneralDisorder

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Well I have XP, just need to know the right person I guess.
You don't need XP for any of the one's I've used.

Join your local military vehicle club. They often have meet ups at guard and reserve bases.... around here that's the case anyway. It's not difficult to find people willing to help a veteran with his truck project. You aren't asking for state secrets here. It's an unarmored truck that Stewart and Stevenson also produced for the civilian market. I'm not saying ask for the manuals but they can look for specific information on your behalf and maybe printout a few sheets with whatever procedure you need or part number, etc. Honestly if you ask nicely you'll probably get all the help you need and they may let you look at the manual yourself.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Sorta. Like I said there's about 25+ serial number ranges in the actual electronic TM's that narrow down the attributes of that specific truck.

Having the battery disconnect box means it's a later A1. As far as I know the A1R's started around mid-late 2007 and went till the end of BAE production.... 2009-ish. After that the contract for FMTV's went to Oshkosh and from there I am reasonably certain that only A1P2 armored cab models were being produced. Which can never be sold to the public.
MME has an armoured version they bought from a guy who bought it off the assembly line in 2009. I dont like adding video links but on youtube HeavyDSparks takes a tour and they show it in the episode where he bought a Blackhawk helicopter. about the 10 min mark. pretty cool i also saw a missle launcher cab for sale on ebay a while back in Tennesse.
 

GeneralDisorder

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MME has an armoured version they bought from a guy who bought it off the assembly line in 2009. I dont like adding video links but on youtube HeavyDSparks takes a tour and they show it in the episode where he bought a Blackhawk helicopter. about the 10 min mark. pretty cool i also saw a missle launcher cab for sale on ebay a while back in Tennesse.
Yeah I've seen that one that MME has in that episode also. It's perfectly legal to build and sell armored vehicles - it's regularly done in fact for celebrity's and security providers, etc. And the A1P2 has no armament as delivered.... it's just a really heavy truck. I'm surprised that one has the bullet resistant glass panels.... honestly wouldn't want one as the visibility REALLY sucks and those panels have to be periodically replaced at HUGE expense as the thick glass in them gets foggy and fails with age. In fact most of the A1P2's run around in garrison with normal windows made of conventional automotive glass and only get the up-armored glass if they deploy (it bolts on).

But as far as all the thousands that the military has purchased - it is their policy to demil them with a "mutilate" code. They cannot be sold at auction intact. There's a (very) few MRAP's that have been allowed out to law enforcement - CIA, FBI, BATF, etc. And once those agencies control them it's anyone's guess what their final disposition will be. It's possible some will survive.

At any rate - ask for a ride in an A1P2 sometime. You won't want one anyway. LoL. Other than really nice 5 point harness bucket seats...... dealing with the 4500 lb cab and it's massive suicide doors that move slowly on damper shocks. Yeah no thanks.

The original HIMARS missile cabs you see for sale are NOT armored (I own one). They are protected from the back-blast and over-pressure of the launch tubes. Bullets will shred them like paper.
 

GENX

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The dash on a C7 truck is unique. The engine itself will have the ACERT badge written across the top of the engine.

Got any pics?
I was mistaken. Perhaps I assumed based on my reading it had a C7…. Trying to get up to speed on everything. I spoke to the old owner and he said 3126 Cat.
It will be here today and I’ll confirm but sure I had my facts mixed up.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Having had all mixed variants from 1992-2008 I can confirm the following:
  • All A1/A1R trucks 2005+ have C7 engines with serpentine belts. They typically have black valve covers too with the word ACERT on it.
  • 2005 A1 (not A1R) trucks with the C7 engine are reset units through an S&S "buy back" program and do not have the "R" status: overload springs, other specific upgrades
  • 2006+ A1R trucks have overload springs, and etc. These are factory new trucks.
  • A1 trucks between 1999-2004 have the 3126B
  • Those trucks above have a serial split around 2003 where battery disconnect relay and serpentine belts were factory, this includes a 12v toggle switch on the dash, remote power disconnect switch on the driver left kick panel, and remote toggle switches on the engine
  • A1 trucks prior to 2002 may have received the serpentine belt upgrade - no guarantee without visual confirmation
  • Trucks prior to 1999 are all 3116 and considered "A0" status for ease of conversation
Now all that info I just regurgitated does have some if's, and's, or but's as S&S was not the cleanest manufacturer when it came to production schedules or shifts. Some trucks may have been produced Dec 04' but delivered Jan 05' as an example so the lines get blurred. I have the oldest known FMTV (92') which is out of the production contract of 94'-98' so things can get wacky. I've also seen a C7 engine inside a 2004 M1078 but it was a late model of that year.

TM's for the A1 and A1R are slowly getting out to the public regardless of authorization or classification. ETMs are a pain to work so in the mean time networking is key. Find yourself a good warrant and buy him some BBQ.
 

fuzzytoaster

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C7's can have black or yellow valve covers according to my sources. Mine is black.

Serpentine modification kit NSN's:

2815-01-533-1324
2815-01-533-1308

No idea how common it was to install these. But they existed at one point.
I agree with your source, it's totally possible, but have yet to see a yellow top "in the wild" compared to 27 black tops in person outside the motor pool(s). I'd like to know rhyme or reason on the belt MWOs as I've only seen 5 3126B prior to 2003 with a serpentine belt and I owned two. 2013 Camp Casey reset and the other is now owned by ramdough. I guestimate it makes logistics simpler? Maybe your source knows.
 

GeneralDisorder

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It might be that remanufactured C7's were painted entirely yellow including valve cover at the depot level.

It's possible that remanufactured 3126B's were equipped with the serpentine upgrade as well.

These might represent trucks that had engines swapped out due to problems or failures.
 

INFChief

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The LBCD is a device that monitors the alternator load and disconnects the grossly oversized battery bank, using the relays in that added box, to keep them from killing the alternator… probably the biggest problem
That plagues the A0/A1 LMTV is the mismatch they created by pairing a 100A dual volt alt with a 240AH battery.

Your A1 will have at least one added sw(has a red guard) below the dash that allows you to control the disconnect relays and remote ign and start switches over by the turbo on the frame rail. Yours probably has an intake heater vis ether fir cold starts, and a few other refinements over the earlier A1…

The latest version typically referred to as the R has the C7 engine and integrated electronic data-bussed gauges, oh and a 260A alt…
A couple of questions:

1). The red switch by the drivers left knee is for what?
2) I picked up a 200 amp alternator. Would O be well advised to swap that in for the existing 100A alternator?
3) by putting in the 200 amp unit will that mean I should or could remove the LBCD?
 

Ronmar

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A couple of questions:

1). The red switch by the drivers left knee is for what?
2) I picked up a 200 amp alternator. Would O be well advised to swap that in for the existing 100A alternator?
3) by putting in the 200 amp unit will that mean I should or could remove the LBCD?
1. One half of The red switch manually opens/disables the battery cutoff relays, the other half disables both the ignition switches(Inside and outside).

2. If you are keeping a 4 battery bank, yes. The only way the 240AH bank works mathematically with the 100A dual volt is to shift all the 12v electrical load to the 24V side using a 24-12 converter. because the windings are limited by their current capacity, the greater the load applied to the 12v side, the lower the overall alternator output. With both sides loaded to their max amp capacity, the alt delivers less than 2000W. With all the load(100A) applied to only the 24V side the alt is capable of 2800W…

3. The LBCD also provides polarity protection. Yes you could remove it, just dont ever confuse the connections on the battery bank…
 

GeneralDisorder

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I chose not to disable the LBCD with my 260A alternator as it does provide polarity protection and will disconnect the batteries and alert you if they are drawing more than 200A. I did have to replace my LBCD as the capacitors were leaking badly and the the studs were rusted and and several were broken free of the potting. I got one on ebay for $100 and it was good. Make sure you clean and protect the connections with dielectric grease, etc whatever you do.

You'll want to go through and clean every ground you can find as well.
 
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