About to start work on our Deuce

[ATPTac]

So its getting about time for us to start doing some work/repairs to our Deuce. I'm kind of anal when it comes to doing work the right way and making sure that everything that needs to be done is done in one swoop. That being said, I plan on tackling the brakes first. Once I start going into the brakes and pulling hubs off I'm wanting to pretty much replace everything that's inside there within reason. So far here's what I'm planning on replacing, and if anyone sees that I'm missing anything (particularly seals) please let me know:

All 6 wheel cylinders (just got 6 new NAPA ones for free )
All rubber brake hoses with steel braided
Master cylinder
Air pack (or rebuild)
Both front axle boots (going with silicone)
Lock washers
Debating on replacing wheel bearings, but definitely repacking them
Any and all axle seals... Which brings me to a few questions: From what I've been told there are 4 outer seals (are these the paper ones on the rears that I've read about?), 6 inner seals, and 2 seals for the front axle. I called White Owl and they offer the 2 front ones with and without retainers, which option should I go with? And are there any other seals I need to replace or does that pretty much cover all of them?

I'm also toying with replacing all the studs/lug nuts while I'm doing this, is that overkill? I've just seen one too many threads/pictures of broken studs, fortunately with no major accidents.

Clearly I have no idea what condition the shoes and drums are going to be in until I get in there and see, I'm not really wanting to replace any of that due to cost unless its absolutely necessary. I do have a leak coming from my right rear most axle, I'm hoping it hasn't contaminated the shoes too badly.

Does anybody have any other suggestions of things to replace while I'm doing all this? And also where is the best place to buy GOOD quality parts (namely the master cylinder and seals)? I called White Owl and got prices on most of this from them, and from what I understand they're one of the better places to deal with as far as getting quality parts go.

I'm going to be using this thread as a record of what I'm doing to the truck in the future as well.

Thanks in advance for any insight!

Jeremy

 

[hndrsonj]

Don't replace the bearings unless you find something wrong with them.

 

[ATPTac]

Don't replace the bearings unless you find something wrong with them.

Any particular reason? Or just for costs sake?

 

[hndrsonj]

They last forever unless installed incorrectly or get mud/water in them.

 

[hndrsonj]

Also read the TM on how to do it and don't forget the cork plug (or seal) the outer seals.

 

[ATPTac]

Also read the TM on how to do it and don't forget the cork plug (or seal) the outer seals.

Yeah, I need to find out which TM all this is in... I've read most people tend to replace the cork seal with RTV, are those the "4 outer seals" that White Owl was listing off to me? Or is that something else?

 

[g2065g]

(just got 6 new NAPA ones for free )

Lucker!

 

[rtk]

Sounds like you are on the right path , remote reservoir for the MC would be good . Wheel studs only if you have a bad stud . The drums can be "turned" if they are scored , if the drum is within spec's . Don't forget the boot clamps , and I would not replace the bearings unless there is a problem . BTW , if the linings are contaminated , you probably would be better to replace them , short money to be safe . When it comes to bleeding the brakes , think about one making or getting a brake bleeder , makes the job MUCH easier . You really won't be able to get everything you need until you have a look around . I do recommend a wheel dolly for this job , easier , safer , plus save you back !

 

[hndrsonj]

Yep, forgot the bleeder.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3229-Deuce-Power-Bleeder-R4x4-Style

 

[ATPTac]

Sounds like you are on the right path , remote reservoir for the MC would be good . Wheel studs only if you have a bad stud . The drums can be "turned" if they are scored , if the drum is within spec's . Don't forget the boot clamps , and I would not replace the bearings unless there is a problem . BTW , if the linings are contaminated , you probably would be better to replace them , short money to be safe . When it comes to bleeding the brakes , think about one making or getting a brake bleeder , makes the job MUCH easier . You really won't be able to get everything you need until you have a look around . I do recommend a wheel dolly for this job , easier , safer , plus save you back !

I am also doing a remote reservoir kit (forgot to mention), and I was planning on building a power bleeder as well. I might need to look into a wheel dolly also, we're wanting to eventually put on singles, and that would make life a lot easier.

So does anybody have any other recommendations for seals or do I have them all covered? I have quite a bit of RTV saved up from work, so I was planning on using that for replacing the cork seals. Also what about sourcing the seals and master cylinder? Should I buy from White Owl? Or I've also talked to a member on here that sells parts... I just don't want to get junk parts that aren't going to last.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Can anyone recommend a good wheel dolly for working on a deuce?

 

[Scar59]

I have a used Gray Industries/Equipment wheel dolly. Works well and can pull super single also. A must when taking off a lot of tires. Their a little pricy new. Keep an eye out on GL, I see a lot coming and going.

 

[Flyingvan911]

You need 6 paper hub seals. 4 outer axle/bearing seals and 6 inner bearing seals. There are two axle seals for the front that are put into the axle housing itself. Good work on doing everything at once. Brake shoes are 1/2" thick new and are supposed to be changed when they get down to 1/3" per the tech manual. Seems like they could go further to me. Maybe some more experienced guys can comment on the brake show wear. Erik's Military Surplus has good prices. Get six of the shaft nut retainers too.

 

[rtk]

I think you have the seals covered , and you should not need too much RTV , just make sure the little cork seal has some RTV on it , and a little on the axle gaskets . Remember a little goes far . I went to 395's so I got a Wheel Dolly from Northern Hydraulics's on a sale , it's china built , but works well and I do not have a lot into it . Are you using DOT 5 , silicon brake fluid or change over to DOT 3 ? I stayed with the DOT 5 . You may want to pick up a few axle NUTS , I am sure you will find a few that were removed with a chisel . good luck , remember this is the FUN part of owning a DEUCE !

 

[ATPTac]

I think you have the seals covered , and you should not need too much RTV , just make sure the little cork seal has some RTV on it , and a little on the axle gaskets . Remember a little goes far . I went to 395's so I got a Wheel Dolly from Northern Hydraulics's on a sale , it's china built , but works well and I do not have a lot into it . Are you using DOT 5 , silicon brake fluid or change over to DOT 3 ? I stayed with the DOT 5 . You may want to pick up a few axle NUTS , I am sure you will find a few that were removed with a chisel . good luck , remember this is the FUN part of owning a DEUCE !

I'm very familiar with RTV being that I use it with my job on a regular basis, so I'm not gonna goop an entire tube on one gasket . The brake fluid is something that my wife and I have been going back and forth on for a while now. I have literally an unlimited supply of DOT 3 fluid from work. But the issue I'm concerned with is that this truck is going to spend some time in the mountains which means hot brakes. I know the boiling points between the two isn't vastly different (approx 100 degrees higher with DOT 5), but that might mean the difference between stopping and the truck barreling out of control with no brakes. I honestly don't know if its going to make THAT big of a difference or not, but the cost of free brake fluid vs. spending a lot of money on DOT 5... I think we're ultimately going to stick with DOT 5 just for safety and peace of mind as much as I don't want to.

And I actually agree about the fun! I'm looking forward to slowly restoring the truck, I just wish I had a nice big shop to work in... One of these days hopefully. I'm sure its going to have its aggravations while we're doing the work, especially running into unforeseen issues.

 

[LowTech]

. . . But the issue I'm concerned with is that this truck is going to spend some time in the mountains which means hot brakes. I know the boiling points between the two isn't vastly different (approx 100 degrees higher with DOT 5), but that might mean the difference between stopping and the truck barreling out of control with no brakes.

Don't brake down a hill! Put it in a low enough gear and drive it down hill!
Counting on Brakes with these trucks is Not the way.

When Tuff was first driving the 109 off -road, she did a climb over a ridge ( you know, the kind that you can't see anything down the other side until you tip over the top) and after stopping on the top to walk and check the route down, she was in disbelief that she could drive down the other side w/o using the brakes . . .
second time over she was doing it w/o touching the pedal all the way down it We have such low gears that some times a little pedal is needed just to get to the bottom

 

[ATPTac]

Don't brake down a hill! Put it in a low enough gear and drive it down hill!
Counting on Brakes with these trucks is Not the way.

When Tuff was first driving the 109 off -road, she did a climb over a ridge ( you know, the kind that you can't see anything down the other side until you tip over the top) and after stopping on the top to walk and check the route down, she was in disbelief that she could drive down the other side w/o using the brakes . . .
second time over she was doing it w/o touching the pedal all the way down it We have such low gears that some times a little pedal is needed just to get to the bottom

Yeah, I'm familiar with driving in mountains. I always downshift in my car when going down hills, but there are some rather steep, winding, and long hills around where we travel that require braking when engine speed gets too high. As I haven't driven the truck in the mountains yet, I'm not familiar with how well its going to do with holding a gear and maintaining speed down some of the hills that I'm worried about. I know I've seen quite a bit of semi's braking on some of a few stretches of road that I'm thinking of because their engine's can't slow the truck down enough (quite a few runaway truck ramps along the side of the highway as well). It's more of a better safe than sorry mentality I suppose.

I would ask people to weigh in on their opinions on DOT 5 vs. DOT 3 but I've seen a few threads on here where that was brought up and it went no where real fast.

 

[ATPTac]

So I Finally got some parts ordered. Found what I'm hoping aren't "too good to be true" deals... I got 6 lock washers for $21 shipped, three sets of 4 NOS brake shoes for $265 shipped ($22 a piece with shipping). I'm hoping that there isn't something funky with the shoes or the wording on the ad was misleading or something (I'm a little nervous, I'll find out shortly after the seller responds to my email), seemed like too good of a deal to pass up so that's why I ordered enough for the entire truck. Should be ordering all the axle seals and silicone boots sometime this week. Getting excited about getting all this in and starting work. I have the entire week of Christmas off from work, so providing the weather is half way decent, I should be able to get all of this knocked out.

 

[Rusty nuts]

When I did my truck I stuck with DOT 5. The best deal I found was on Amazon for a 12 pack case of 12oz bottles for $73 free 2 day shipping (free shipping as a Prime member). This comes out to 1 gallon + 16oz. The 12oz bottles are also a lot easier to deal with than a gallon jug.

 

[ATPTac]

When I did my truck I stuck with DOT 5. The best deal I found was on Amazon for a 12 pack case of 12oz bottles for $73 free 2 day shipping (free shipping as a Prime member). This comes out to 1 gallon + 16oz. The 12oz bottles are also a lot easier to deal with than a gallon jug.

I didn't even think to check Amazon... That definitely doesn't seem like a bad deal at all.

And I heard back from the seller on the brake shoes, the quantity was correct. Also after looking around, it doesn't seem like it was the "too good to be true" deal I thought it was, quite a few people selling them for around the same price. Either way, compared to some prices I've seen on brake shoes for Deuce's, still a pretty good deal.