Adding a turbo question

[brainsboy]

Just bought my first 1968 M35a2 mutlifuel truck a month ago and I have ran into a few questions that I havent been able to find. The last owner said originally the truck was a turbo model, then in 1989 the military rebuilt most of the truck and the turbo was taken off. I believe this to be true because the fender has a 4 bolt plate where they covered the old exhaust hole and the truck still has the exhaust stack brackets. Now the exhaust runs under the truck through a muffler and out between the two rear tires. My question is can I just add a turbo back on? Im an ASE certified mechanic but I have never really worked on diesels that much, and its a completely different animal than Im used to working on. If I add a turbo do I need to adjust the injection pump at all for the added amount of boost? How does the injection pump adjust for boost of a turbo?

engine tag says (1989 LDS-465-1 mains .010 rods .010).


Ben

 

[stb64]

What you have is an interesting mix of parts from different trucks.
In 1968 all M35A2 came from the factory with non-turbo LD 465-1 engines and vertical stack.
Your engine LDS 465-1 is from a 5ton truck and was originally turbocharged.
The horizontal exhaust system with muffler was used on older 1965-66 M35A2 trucks, also with LD 465-1 engine.

You can put a turbo back on with no problems, the original turbo for the LDS 465-1 (not -1A !) was a schwitzer model 4-456, but other turbos were widely used as a replacement by the army.
There is no boost adjustment other than the maximum amount of fuel injected: more fuel = more exhaust gases = more boost. The 4-456 turbo has no wastegate, so no adjustments here either. Also, the only wastegated turbo (schwitzer 4LE-354) used on the LDS 465-1A, should you want to install one, is non adjustable.

If I add a turbo do I need to adjust the injection pump at all for the added amount of boost? How does the injection pump adjust for boost of a turbo?

Injection pumps in non-turbo engines are timed at 25 deg. BTC, on turbo engines at 20 deg. BTC, but many people, me included, still have their turboed engines timed at 25 degrees with no problems.
The timing procedure is very simple, a matter of aligning 2 markings and 2 pointers on crankshaft damper and injection pump, it is in the engine manual and also has been covered on this site.

 

[porkysplace]

If you look at the bottom of this page there is a list of simialar threads , this is one of them and will answer most of your questions. [h=6]Adding a Turbo to Non-Turbo 465[/h]

 

[emr]

Search is your friend... It really is, after reading a few thou posts that have the questions and answers you desire, You may have more direct questions that will help a ton more because you will be further down the road, Good luck...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ben what you haven't been told is that you will need an exhaust system in addition to the turbo to do what you want to do. I might know a guy that has the complete exhaust kit needed if you decide to put a turbo on. ANY of the mulitifuel turbos will work, but each has different characteristics. The "C" turbo whistles, the "D turbo is made better, the early LDS turbo puts out a lot of boost, and the wastegate turbo spools faster, but might have fitment issues as the wastegate sticks out, it might interfere with the starter in the deuce.

 

[Rusty nuts]

I just got done doing the exact same thing on my 68 truck with a LD 465-1. When I got mine it had a water tank (non-military) on it and the exhaust ran back under the truck and out between the duals like the M49 has. Through vendors and auction sites I ordered the complete exhaust (Clean Air Kit) and Turbo install kit that included everything I needed but the 2 fittings that screw into the block for the oil supply line and the oil drain which I got from a vendor on this site. I picked up a "C" turbo in good condition locally for $250. Just finished it yesterday and took it for a drive....sounds like a Deuce now Everything was pretty much bolt on and the worst part was figuring out where to cut the hold in the fender for the stack. Be careful on removing the nuts from the studs on the exhaust manifold, don't want to break them....I had been spraying mine for a week with PB Blaster and one came right off and the other wouldn't budge so I used a nut splitter on it. The 2 outer bolts with nuts would not come so vise grips on the nuts and breaker bar on the bolts till they snapped. Overall, just a couple long evenings work.