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Adding an aftermarket coolant gauge to an M1008

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
309
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Hey y'all,
In my process of reworking the wiring in my M1008 back to stock 24V, I ended up tossing out my glow plug harness that was shredded to pieces. The coolant temp sensor at the back of the motor was busted, and I decided to replace it before I realized how bad the glow plug harness was.

So now I've got a Duralast SU102 sensor in the hole with appropriate pigtail with the wires just sticking up doing nothing, and I was wondering if anybody else has put a gauge on one of these before. Looking to see what brand would be compatable with an SU102.

Pic SU102 for reference:
Coolant Temp Sensor SU102.jpg
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,254
1,761
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Any of the normal 4 or 5 ports on the cylinder heads or cross over coolant pipe will get you coolant temperature readings. Arguments can be made about which location is best or worse. My opinion is that installing a quality gauge will let you see actual numbers. Once you have those numbers, whatever they are. You can figure out what is normal. Which will let you then know when things aren’t normal. That is what you are after so, go for it.

A stock 6.2 came with a 195° thermostat. That thermostat will start to open at 192° and become fully open at 203°-205°. Anywhere in between is where normal should be on a healthy engine with a working cooling system.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
309
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Any of the normal 4 or 5 ports on the cylinder heads or cross over coolant pipe will get you coolant temperature readings. Arguments can be made about which location is best or worse. My opinion is that installing a quality gauge will let you see actual numbers. Once you have those numbers, whatever they are. You can figure out what is normal. Which will let you then know when things aren’t normal. That is what you are after so, go for it.

A stock 6.2 came with a 195° thermostat. That thermostat will start to open at 192° and become fully open at 203°-205°. Anywhere in between is where normal should be on a healthy engine with a working cooling system.

So you're saying just ditch the concept of using the GP temp sensor spot at the back of the block? Or that'd be viable, just put a decent gauge on it for a good reading?
 

adf5565

Well-known member
375
687
93
Location
Tioga, PA
In my opinion it is easiest to put a gauge at the top-rear of passenger side head as that location is currently unused. I'd recommend using this block plate vs one that requires a 3/8 to 1/8 NPT adapter. I recently switched to this plate and it made a world of a difference in the accuracy of my temp readings. Either I had an air pocket or the sender was too far away from the coolant flow, but the gauge would fluctuate between 160-170 when warm. Which as Barrman mentioned does not line up with the thermostat temp.

With the new plate the temp sender is more in line with coolant flow and my gauge now reads 195 when warmed up, which is what it should be. And then will rise accordingly based on workload.




1696614047362.png
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
309
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
In my opinion it is easiest to put a gauge at the top-rear of passenger side head as that location is currently unused. I'd recommend using this block plate vs one that requires a 3/8 to 1/8 NPT adapter. I recently switched to this plate and it made a world of a difference in the accuracy of my temp readings. Either I had an air pocket or the sender was too far away from the coolant flow, but the gauge would fluctuate between 160-170 when warm. Which as Barrman mentioned does not line up with the thermostat temp.

With the new plate the temp sender is more in line with coolant flow and my gauge now reads 195 when warmed up, which is what it should be. And then will rise accordingly based on workload.




View attachment 907453
Love the fitment, super clean. I think it'd be a worthwhile upgrade (especially if I pull the intake back off to get the IP out here soon). Thanks for the link!

Any clue which gauge you went with? I'm finding them anywhere from $20 to like $100, electric or mechanical? I know mechanical gets a little finnicky keeping the tubing straight.
 

adf5565

Well-known member
375
687
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Love the fitment, super clean. I think it'd be a worthwhile upgrade (especially if I pull the intake back off to get the IP out here soon). Thanks for the link!

Any clue which gauge you went with? I'm finding them anywhere from $20 to like $100, electric or mechanical? I know mechanical gets a little finnicky keeping the tubing straight.
You actually don't need to pull the intake off, just the air filter. Granted it would help but I just swapped it out last weekend without taking anything else apart. That pic was just from the website to help show the location.

I went with an autometer one, many models will work but i went with the black 2-1/16" one.

 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
309
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
You actually don't need to pull the intake off, just the air filter. Granted it would help but I just swapped it out last weekend without taking anything else apart. That pic was just from the website to help show the location.

I went with an autometer one, many models will work but i went with the black 2-1/16" one.

Thanks adf,
One last (likely stupid) question.. looking at the TMs, you replaced the drilled plate out for item #6 here, correct?

1696615979479.png
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,254
1,761
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I would also suggest leaving your stock glow plug sensor there if it isn’t leaking. You or a future buyer might want to return things to stock glow plugs.
 
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