Adding electric trailer brakes to a 5ton A2

[skav]

I plan to tow a trailer with 12v electric brakes when I buy my 5ton.

Has anybody installed an electric brake controller in a 5ton?

 

[bchauvette]

Controllers are inertia operated so you don't have to tap into the brake system. The main bug-a-boo is getting a 12v supply for the controller ,the brakes and lights There are several ways to do that. Tap off one battery. Least desirable. throws the battery bank off balance. Separate 12v system with alternator, Most involved and 24v to 12v converter.

You can buy a converter "Black Box" for the lights or fabricate your own using relays with 24v coils. You can buy a military trailer end pig tail. One end would have military plug other civi trailer. The military plug has extra pins to use for the electric brake signal.

 

[dilligaf13]

I used a tekonsha P3 inertia brake controller. Tapped in a single battery for power and the used one of the extra pins on the truck's plug. I used an old plug from a m105 and wired it into the trailer. I tapped into the "signal" for the truck's brake lights to power the trailers brake lights. It was a little bit of a PITA to wire it all up but it works great and was well worth it. Just FYI I converted the trailer lights to LED to avoid the old 24V to 12V issue with the lights.

 

[74M35A2]

This thread should move to 5T mod.

I have this on mine too. I use a conventional trailer brake controller and an www.XM381.com box I had him add 3 unique circuits to. 12v brake I/O, 12v reverse light I/O, and 12v battery charging pass through. I tap off of one battery, the most reliable method IMO.

The 939's do have a lot of stopping power built into them, as a reminder.

 

[skav]

Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up buying the truck I was looking at so, I excited to get going with it.

I did a bit of research and was told of a 24v to 12v trailer converter with integrated brake controller. Has anybody used this?

 

[The HUlk]

The 939's do have a lot of stopping power built into them, as a reminder.

I agree, the m939s are rated for 5tons mil. spec. Depending on how much you are hauling you may not need active brakes on the trailer. I have hauled over 3 tons with no trailer brakes and no issues. Tongue weight helps with traction so I have heard, never had any traction issues myself. I can tell you that tongue weight improves the ride on an A1.

 

[The HUlk]

Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up buying the truck I was looking at so, I excited to get going with it.

I did a bit of research and was told of a 24v to 12v trailer converter with integrated brake controller. Has anybody used this?

1. This post needs pics!
2. Not sure what the current draw is on your brake system, you can get something like this in the 20amp range...

http://www.amazon.com/HOSSEN®-Conve...39949&sr=8-1&keywords=24+to+12+volt+converter

 

[74M35A2]

Make sure you know how many wheel brakes the target trailer will have. I had to get an 8 channel controller (4 axle).

 

[Warthog]

Check out fellow member mikew's website www.xm381.com

He builds a unit. It was mentioned in post #4

 

[skav]

I agree, the m939s are rated for 5tons mil. spec. Depending on how much you are hauling you may not need active brakes on the trailer. I have hauled over 3 tons with no trailer brakes and no issues. Tongue weight helps with traction so I have heard, never had any traction issues myself. I can tell you that tongue weight improves the ride on an A1.

I tow a 16k toy hauler now with my 2500hd and electric brakes. The plan is to use my new 932 for this. I'm sure it would be fine wo brakes but I'd like to use them since I have them.

I don't think I'll need to use the load distribution hitch with the 5t though

 

[The HUlk]

I tow a 16k toy hauler now with my 2500hd and electric brakes. The plan is to use my new 932 for this. I'm sure it would be fine wo brakes but I'd like to use them since I have them.

I don't think I'll need to use the load distribution hitch with the 5t though

16K is really going to smooth out the ride, they're rough riding empty.

 

[74M35A2]

Towing a load will smooth out the ride? I think if you put weight in the bed it would smooth out the ride....

 

[skav]

Check out fellow member mikew's website www.xm381.com

He builds a unit. It was mentioned in post #4

Thanks for the link. That looks like it should work great. I'll call tomorrow.

 

[The HUlk]

Towing a load will smooth out the ride? I think if you put weight in the bed it would smooth out the ride....

If there's a decent amount of tongue weight it does.

 

[JohnnyBM931A2]

Towing a load will smooth out the ride? I think if you put weight in the bed it would smooth out the ride....

From his post it looks like he has a 932 (tractor with winch,) so he doesn't have a bed.

 

[skav]

16K is really going to smooth out the ride, they're rough riding empty.

I went with the 932 for the shorter wheelbase but I heard that one of the drawbacks with no weigh on the back is a rougher ride.

Is it a big difference compared to a cargo truck?

 

[skav]

From his post it looks like he has a 932 (tractor with winch,) so he doesn't have a bed.

It's a 932 but the guy I bought it from put a 10' bed on the back which is the combo I've been wanting to build. I guess it's kind of a hybrid.

 

[The HUlk]

I rode in the back of an unloaded cargo (M924?) off road a few months ago and I would say they both are equally rough. My M931 has an added bed & bucket seats in the back which is way better than the troop benches. After a few minutes of the benches I learned standing is the better option.

 

[74M35A2]

From his post it looks like he has a 932 (tractor with winch,) so he doesn't have a bed.

You're both right. Sorry I missed.