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FYI - Tractor Supply has the Rotella on sale thru 11/26/17 for $60. You can order it online for in-store pickup if you can't get there before Sunday.
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Now I'm confused, I look at the tubs in my shop, and the old ones were Rotella T-3, the ones I just picked up are T-4. There is now only the T-4 available from my supplier. Probably will just continue to change the oil at good intervals and not think about it too much.You know, this can get old real fast.
I'm under the impression the "correct" Rotella T is the CJ-4 API rated oil.
In other words, this gets confusing as heck.
Anyone care to chime in?
Now I'm confused, I look at the tubs in my shop, and the old ones were Rotella T-3, the ones I just picked up are T-4. There is now only the T-4 available from my supplier. Probably will just continue to change the oil at good intervals and not think about it too much.
The first link did not work for me, but by the looks of the 2nd link, there is plenty of zinc in the T-4
The reason there is so much misinformation out there is because the oil and fuel industry wants it that way. I know it sounds like a "conspiracy theory" kind of thing but actually it is just a delaying action on the part of the oil industry. Soon all these old engines will be gone and there will no longer be any need to even discuss the fuel or oil used in your engines. Just like the article in my buddies magazine said, deflect the questions and soon there will no longer be any questions. Can you imagine the lawsuit if the truth really came out ! There would be such a tremendous class action lawsuit the industry would not recover ! Well maybe not that bad, but it would be bad. Just at our transit agency we lost over 800 injection pumps in the first 6 months of switching to the ULSD ! I still remember customers coming in the shop with cams that had lost their lobes after switching to the newer oils. Some where just months old. In maybe fifty years from now the real truth will come out, but by then who would really care ?Rotella T5 CJ4 has 1181 ppm zinc and the old CI4 had 1400ppm. My .02 we are still good.
As for the fuel it's funny how the question has been coming up from almost day one of SS.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?45802-Diesel-Fuel-Grades-What-Do-You-Use
I'm sorry this is just NOT TRUE! I had 2 hotrod motors destroyed by synthetic oils around 2002. And after talking to the techs at Crane cams, and several hotrod shops around Daytona Beach I was not alone. There's an entire market around Zinc additives for older engines! Google Zinc oil additives and you'll be overwhelmed with options. Including several companies offering "Muscle car oil".....https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3qSey93X1wIV0IuzCh35cQM9EAQYAiABEgLhdfD_BwEhttp://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf
Lets look at the number and it seems like most of the diesel oils are still in the ball park of 1200 ppm. Just saying.
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf
Ahh yess, I broke them in properly, and Yes they were gas engines,(400 HP Ford 289) & (500HP Ford 351W). As to whether new oils can damage our diesel roller cam 6.2's, who knows. The point is the oil companies quietly changed their ingredients causing catastrophic damage to older engines. And simply blame shifted the problem to "improper break in". And subsequently creating a lucrative side market for themselves of selling us back the Zinc & phosphorus they took away.Hot rod and proper break in also believe your talking about gas motors oils. Did you do the proper break in with the very high levels of zinc and not use syn. oil to start with? Our trucks are not race cars that demand a lot more. Yes there are additives and google is are friend.
As I said before in my GMC 3500 I run the Lucas Diesel 15w40 and it has 1281 ppm and I don't even worry about it.https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf
I speak from experience not conjecture, of course I use break in oils on any new engine. I assumed I didn't need to point that out in my earlier statement. The wiped cams happened after break in when modern synthetics were used and again I'm not the only one. After speaking with several fellow hot rodders, engine builders, and speed shop owners at that time (2000-2003) it was a little known problem then. Again the simple fact is this. They changed something, it causes problems, and they sell the solution back to us via a small bottle of additive. And I'd rather not experiment with my 1984 6.2 diesel so I'll just use old dyno oil.Found this on comp cams. No Syn. on break in and remove inner valve spring and keep the rpm up. Guess it boils down to reading everything you can that is more than opinion and then make you call as to what you are comfortable with in life. If your wrong than you pay up if not then we go on to the next problem life throws at us.http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/COMP4-115.pdf
Not sure if I should mention this or not, but I recently read a test of numerous diesel oils where Lucas placed quite poorly.As I said before in my GMC 3500 I run the Lucas Diesel 15w40 and it has 1281 ppm and I don't even worry about it.
And this is why I don't put much stock in "Independent testing".......Video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne7ayhPVVYYNot sure if I should mention this or not, but I recently read a test of numerous diesel oils where Lucas placed quite poorly.
Probably an honest study, then.Not sure if I should mention this or not, but I recently read a test of numerous diesel oils where Lucas placed quite poorly.
And this is why I don't put much stock in "Independent testing".......Video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne7ayhPVVYY
You're right. I have a 383 I built years ago and almost never drive...at any rate it has a not-that-agressive but modern profile flat tappet cam on it. I've run diesel oil in it (Rotella) from day one because it used to and hopefully still does have the additional additives. The oil pressure can be insane though until it warms up ~ 100 PSI at 2k RPM.I'm sorry this is just NOT TRUE! I had 2 hotrod motors destroyed by synthetic oils around 2002. And after talking to the techs at Crane cams, and several hotrod shops around Daytona Beach I was not alone. There's an entire market around Zinc additives for older engines! Google Zinc oil additives and you'll be overwhelmed with options. Including several companies offering "Muscle car oil".....https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3qSey93X1wIV0IuzCh35cQM9EAQYAiABEgLhdfD_BwE
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