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Lol. I think my in-laws drilled the holes in the base plate. Let's just say they're not exactly...well...square.
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Addition of 1 Ton Bed Crane
- Thread starter 74M35A2
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74M35A2
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Drilled holes should be round, not square, so I think you are good!
My in-laws are in prison.
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Prison or the looney bin, one or the other (T) !Drilled holes should be round, not square, so I think you are good!
My in-laws are in prison.
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Didn't have time to mount the winch. I couldn't seem to stop picking things up with the new cylinder. This thing is great and well worth the money. Can't wait to get the winch installed. It'll probably be Saturday night before that happens.
Load test results: 523lb. vise pedestal lifted with boom at full extension. That's the heaviest thing I had handy in the garage. I can do some real testing this weekend with some maximum capacity lifts.
There was zero deflection present in the floor during the lift. I even pulled down on the pedestal a couple times and still nothing. I think having the braces tied directly into both supports made this possible.
Lifting the load from the lowered position to the position pictured took about 13 seconds. Lift time to full height was just under a minute. There's no way it can be manually raised that fast and all I did was squeeze a valve button.
Air system depletion during use was decent but recovery was very quick. The cylinder comes with a 1/2" air line. I ran air to that line via a 1/4" coiled line from the emergency gladhand. While I think the lift would be faster with 1/2" all the way, I think the depletion/recovery times would become less favorable with more wait periods.
Rmtaunton
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Can you post some pics and detail of the mounting and braces
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Mounting
Super ideas all. I especially like the air operated hydraulics. I have had the idea on my list for sometime. For reinforcing the under bed though, I think consideration should be given to a 1/2" plate that is permanently to the underside, that in turn has reinforcing fixe to it. It should go from rear, to the forward cross member to the frame to the outside bed's side. The big thing though, is I want to take the whole mounted crane out easy, to have full bed width! Drill the plate and tap the holes, or weld nuts to the bottom side, so you don't have to get under it to back up those nuts. Some day, you will find it in the way & a small air impact will zip out those mounting bolts. If you ran out of stuff to do, put a mounting plate in both rear
corners. I really like palletized stuff & especially, the mobility box.
Super ideas all. I especially like the air operated hydraulics. I have had the idea on my list for sometime. For reinforcing the under bed though, I think consideration should be given to a 1/2" plate that is permanently to the underside, that in turn has reinforcing fixe to it. It should go from rear, to the forward cross member to the frame to the outside bed's side. The big thing though, is I want to take the whole mounted crane out easy, to have full bed width! Drill the plate and tap the holes, or weld nuts to the bottom side, so you don't have to get under it to back up those nuts. Some day, you will find it in the way & a small air impact will zip out those mounting bolts. If you ran out of stuff to do, put a mounting plate in both rear
corners. I really like palletized stuff & especially, the mobility box.
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I'm about half way finished with the wireless winch install. I'll be doing some heavier picks this evening when I have this done. I'll get some more pictures with measurements up this evening or tomorrow.
74M35A2
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I smell a weight lifting competition brewing....
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Well, everything went well. I successfully loaded the 4wheeler (728 lbs.) in the bed and only had to touch the crane to swing it. It was dark by the time I got to do this though, so no pictures today. I found I will have to move the winch lower down the mast. I made a mount that positioned it between the manual winch and the boom tail pulley. This was an attempt to leave the manual winch in place. Putting it so close to the tail pulley causes the cable to only spool in the middle though. I'm going to remove the spacers on either side of the pulley and see if letting it float will help it spool better. If not, I'll remove the manual winch and mount the other one lower down the mast.
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Been real busy but finally finished everything except paint. Had to remove the manual winch and move the electric winch lower to make things work. Here's some bracing pics as requested.
Used 6 bolts on the base plate that go through the bracing underneath. The middle bolt in the back is lined up inside the tail light box so I didn't use it. The front middle bolt goes through the bed but not the bracing. Mainly using it to secure the securing eye I added to keep everything from rattling around when not in use.
In the middle picture you can see where I overlapped the support flange that is part of the rearmost support. In the last picture, the next support forward doesn't have a flange on the back side so I had to make one. Both ends of the braces are tied in to the bed supports.
I used some leftover U-bolts from a 3500# 4wheeler winch to mount this one. They look dinky in the pictures but the size of the piece of angle makes it look like that. The winch is a Harbor Freight special. Ended up being about $65 after sale and coupons. It's comes with a wireless remote that I've really been enjoying. I'm running it off a spare Optima yellow top battery in a battery box I have in the bed. I haven't been able to kill the battery yet after multiple heavy lifts so I think this setup will meet my needs.
Used 6 bolts on the base plate that go through the bracing underneath. The middle bolt in the back is lined up inside the tail light box so I didn't use it. The front middle bolt goes through the bed but not the bracing. Mainly using it to secure the securing eye I added to keep everything from rattling around when not in use.
In the middle picture you can see where I overlapped the support flange that is part of the rearmost support. In the last picture, the next support forward doesn't have a flange on the back side so I had to make one. Both ends of the braces are tied in to the bed supports.
I used some leftover U-bolts from a 3500# 4wheeler winch to mount this one. They look dinky in the pictures but the size of the piece of angle makes it look like that. The winch is a Harbor Freight special. Ended up being about $65 after sale and coupons. It's comes with a wireless remote that I've really been enjoying. I'm running it off a spare Optima yellow top battery in a battery box I have in the bed. I haven't been able to kill the battery yet after multiple heavy lifts so I think this setup will meet my needs.
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Continued (to many pictures for a post I reckon)...
This shows how I'm running a two part line with a snatch block. This is not to pick up things that are more than capacity. I did this to keep my winch and battery a little happier. I originally tried to use the factory chain grab as the place to secure the cable end. I lost about 6" of lift height with this setup. The chain grab just hangs to low. I used a piece of C-channel to make a more low profile attachment point. As I said, this not a jib and I'm aware that the extra length changes capacity. The extension effectively adds 3" to the boom length from where the cable end is attached but the purpose was not to make the boom longer.
(Picture wouldn't upload. Will take another and post later)
This is in the stowed position using the eye I attached to the base. With slight tension on the winch in the lowered position, it keeps everything from rattling around. You can see the extension a little in this picture.
This pallet was full when I hoisted it in the bed. I calculated the shipping weight for everything in there and with the weight of the pallet, it came up to ~1800#. I left the heavy stuff in the bottom for the picture but it was piled up when I lifted it. It had no problem lifting it and there was no visible deflection in the floor. I lowered it and picked it up with a straight edge in the floor and saw a little less than 1/16" deflection. I'm happy with this and will leave it as is.
I want to thank everyone for their input and 74M35A2 for allowing me to add to his thread. This addition is definitely on the top of the list for mods to these trucks.
This shows how I'm running a two part line with a snatch block. This is not to pick up things that are more than capacity. I did this to keep my winch and battery a little happier. I originally tried to use the factory chain grab as the place to secure the cable end. I lost about 6" of lift height with this setup. The chain grab just hangs to low. I used a piece of C-channel to make a more low profile attachment point. As I said, this not a jib and I'm aware that the extra length changes capacity. The extension effectively adds 3" to the boom length from where the cable end is attached but the purpose was not to make the boom longer.
(Picture wouldn't upload. Will take another and post later)
This is in the stowed position using the eye I attached to the base. With slight tension on the winch in the lowered position, it keeps everything from rattling around. You can see the extension a little in this picture.
This pallet was full when I hoisted it in the bed. I calculated the shipping weight for everything in there and with the weight of the pallet, it came up to ~1800#. I left the heavy stuff in the bottom for the picture but it was piled up when I lifted it. It had no problem lifting it and there was no visible deflection in the floor. I lowered it and picked it up with a straight edge in the floor and saw a little less than 1/16" deflection. I'm happy with this and will leave it as is.
I want to thank everyone for their input and 74M35A2 for allowing me to add to his thread. This addition is definitely on the top of the list for mods to these trucks.
74M35A2
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Don't thank me, that is what this place is about. 
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Nice load balancer, where did it come from?
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Thanks. I got it while surplus picking. It's part of a Caterpillar transmission service kit the military was using. The kit came with a steel cart that weighed about 400# but he wanted way to much for the cart. It's never been used, I just need to clean the surface rust off the screw. The screw is Acme thread and the travel rollers have ball bearings. It's definately as nice as it looks.
Capt Jon
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Swamp Donkey,
I love your setup, it looks fantastic and obviously is a real performer.
But I have one safety concern. The way I understand the difference between a winch and a hoist is that a winch does not have the braking and safety factor for overhead use. The brake on the atv winch is typically a little cam operated chunk of friction material inside the drum. Even on a high quality winch, it just isn't the kind of thing you want for lifting. I know it's more work, but I would feel better with the manual pawl & sprocket arrangement on the manual boat-trailer winch.
I'm not trying to criticize, and I think your set-up is great. But I would hate to read a story about somebody's kid playing around while you are loading a pallet or a 4-wheeler and find the limits on that winch brake.
I don't claim to be an expert, and would welcome some opinions from those who do overhead work. But I have broken a few recovery winches, and their limitations scare me a little in that application.
Keep up the good work,
Jon
I love your setup, it looks fantastic and obviously is a real performer.
But I have one safety concern. The way I understand the difference between a winch and a hoist is that a winch does not have the braking and safety factor for overhead use. The brake on the atv winch is typically a little cam operated chunk of friction material inside the drum. Even on a high quality winch, it just isn't the kind of thing you want for lifting. I know it's more work, but I would feel better with the manual pawl & sprocket arrangement on the manual boat-trailer winch.
I'm not trying to criticize, and I think your set-up is great. But I would hate to read a story about somebody's kid playing around while you are loading a pallet or a 4-wheeler and find the limits on that winch brake.
I don't claim to be an expert, and would welcome some opinions from those who do overhead work. But I have broken a few recovery winches, and their limitations scare me a little in that application.
Keep up the good work,
Jon
74M35A2
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Capt Jon,
I can't agree with you more, honestly. The dangers of this should've been more clearly addressed. I'd like to elaborate on a couple of your points and add some information, all while not coming off as defensive.
While I'm not in the overhead profession, I'm around it everyday and have to learn the safety and rules of proper picking on anything from 150 ton cranes to a pallet jack. I work for a company that is heavily regulated by the government and that has no problem teaching you how to do things the safe way. I'll use this knowledge to make some observations and put some information on the table.
Let's start with the crane itself before modifications were made. The crane itself, while having a claimed rating, is no more rated than the coat hangers in my closet. At best it is a copy of a design that might have had some credentials behind it. The only thing square on mine is the square stock that was manufactured at the mill. The holes are not square, the cuts and welds are not square and there are hot and cold welds all over. Any company with slight legal knowledge would run from this device.
The stock or aftermarket hydraulic cylinders have no legal lifting rating. There are no safety check valves to keep the boom in place if an internal seal fails. The base plate for the cylinder is cast which is something not recommended in lifting devices except under special circumstances. Casting leaves too many imperfections which is why most certified lifting devices are fabricated.
You are absolutely correct about the winch. A lifting hoist will have a positive engagement brake. It will also have a rated capacity instead of a stated capacity. The chain or cable will be separately proofed or rated and most, not all, will be designed for hanging overhead from a rated attachment point.
So I'll back up your question about the safety of this device by saying that technically this device is not rated to safely pick anything, by industry standards. Having said that though, if it was rated, the customer base they are entertaining would no longer be able to afford it.
So why'd I buy this hunk of bad welds and crooked metal then? It's limitations are clear as a bell, it was hot dip galvanized (it's hard to paint the inside of a tube) and I don't have a bunch of kids to stand around and help me get stuff into the bed. Last but not least, it was affordable.
The winch is wireless and works up to a tested distance of about 40' away. The hydraulic cylinder is operated by air from a 10' hose lead. I use a rope to swing the load from the ground or in the bed.
You should never stand where you could be contacted by a load and taglines should be used to control a load. My modifications have allowed me to meet these two criteria. You should always recognize the limitations of your equipment and operate within them.
As I said, my intent here is not to defend, but answer your question and oblige your request.
Hope I've helped.
I can't agree with you more, honestly. The dangers of this should've been more clearly addressed. I'd like to elaborate on a couple of your points and add some information, all while not coming off as defensive.
While I'm not in the overhead profession, I'm around it everyday and have to learn the safety and rules of proper picking on anything from 150 ton cranes to a pallet jack. I work for a company that is heavily regulated by the government and that has no problem teaching you how to do things the safe way. I'll use this knowledge to make some observations and put some information on the table.
Let's start with the crane itself before modifications were made. The crane itself, while having a claimed rating, is no more rated than the coat hangers in my closet. At best it is a copy of a design that might have had some credentials behind it. The only thing square on mine is the square stock that was manufactured at the mill. The holes are not square, the cuts and welds are not square and there are hot and cold welds all over. Any company with slight legal knowledge would run from this device.
The stock or aftermarket hydraulic cylinders have no legal lifting rating. There are no safety check valves to keep the boom in place if an internal seal fails. The base plate for the cylinder is cast which is something not recommended in lifting devices except under special circumstances. Casting leaves too many imperfections which is why most certified lifting devices are fabricated.
You are absolutely correct about the winch. A lifting hoist will have a positive engagement brake. It will also have a rated capacity instead of a stated capacity. The chain or cable will be separately proofed or rated and most, not all, will be designed for hanging overhead from a rated attachment point.
So I'll back up your question about the safety of this device by saying that technically this device is not rated to safely pick anything, by industry standards. Having said that though, if it was rated, the customer base they are entertaining would no longer be able to afford it.
So why'd I buy this hunk of bad welds and crooked metal then? It's limitations are clear as a bell, it was hot dip galvanized (it's hard to paint the inside of a tube) and I don't have a bunch of kids to stand around and help me get stuff into the bed. Last but not least, it was affordable.
The winch is wireless and works up to a tested distance of about 40' away. The hydraulic cylinder is operated by air from a 10' hose lead. I use a rope to swing the load from the ground or in the bed.
You should never stand where you could be contacted by a load and taglines should be used to control a load. My modifications have allowed me to meet these two criteria. You should always recognize the limitations of your equipment and operate within them.
As I said, my intent here is not to defend, but answer your question and oblige your request.
Hope I've helped.
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74M35A2
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*Yawn*. Crane looks great. Don't stand under any lifting mech. Have fun with it.
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Cliff notes...lol.
Bunkerbuilder
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Just to understand and so everyone else seeing this is also aware, the angle under the bed isnt aluminum right? please tell me that is steel angle painted to look like aluminum!!!
Im sure you are aware aluminum angle in a stressful area would make the whole setup much weaker when stressed IMHO.
Im sure you are aware aluminum angle in a stressful area would make the whole setup much weaker when stressed IMHO.