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Adventure
- Thread starter Ignus
- Start date
blzrgb
New member
- 200
- 1
- 0
- Location
- mississippi
Sounds sorta steep, but good luck. That Tommy lift would come in handy.
niferous
Member
- 715
- 6
- 18
- Location
- Houston, TX
I'd talk him down to at the most $2500. I'd be willing to bet he didn't pay over $2000 for it. Plus if he starts screaming about low miles make sure you know he has no way to prove that the miles shown are accurate.
Not trying to dissuade you, it may very well be a good truck. Just keep those in things in mind.
Not trying to dissuade you, it may very well be a good truck. Just keep those in things in mind.
blzrgb
New member
- 200
- 1
- 0
- Location
- mississippi
Reguardless if you purchase or not, try and put us up some pics of it please 
roscoe
New member
- 998
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spencerville, Indiana
I don't know much about m1008s, but 4k dosen't sound that bad if its in decent shape. Look at other trucks in that price range - you don't get much. Consider all the hassle if you buy direct from GL. Not to mention the transport costs, preview trip, titling work ect. If someone were wanting to by one of my deuce trucks, there is no way I would sell one at even double the price I paid GL. And remember, it is a dealership needing a profit to stay in business. Good luck with it.
jsrovers
New member
- 17
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Hopkins, MN
For reference:
I just bought an 87 1 ton 6.2 pickup M1008 with 13,000 documented miles for $4,000, 3 weeks ago. You will likely need to budget for things like interior, tires, maintenance etc... Look at around $5000-6500 by the time you finish the project. Or just buy it and drive the **** out of it for the $4000.
I am still working on mine. I just mounted a set of 5 - 33 inch goodyear MTR tires to it. new dash, new door panels, new MRAP seats (still working on the mounts), full maintenence including fluids service, new GP's and GP relay etc... If you want a good reliable truck you will need to throw some cash at it. I have been very happy with mine and I have probably gone overboard on some of the components but everyone has their own way of doing things. I SAY YOU SHOULD GO FOR IT!
I just bought an 87 1 ton 6.2 pickup M1008 with 13,000 documented miles for $4,000, 3 weeks ago. You will likely need to budget for things like interior, tires, maintenance etc... Look at around $5000-6500 by the time you finish the project. Or just buy it and drive the **** out of it for the $4000.
I am still working on mine. I just mounted a set of 5 - 33 inch goodyear MTR tires to it. new dash, new door panels, new MRAP seats (still working on the mounts), full maintenence including fluids service, new GP's and GP relay etc... If you want a good reliable truck you will need to throw some cash at it. I have been very happy with mine and I have probably gone overboard on some of the components but everyone has their own way of doing things. I SAY YOU SHOULD GO FOR IT!
- 34,012
- 1,808
- 113
- Location
- GA Mountains
I paid $3500 for a rust free titled example and it doesn't have one GL chalk mark or sticker! After buying trucks cheaper with mild rust, I'm quite happy with my purchase.
Cucvnut
Well-known member
- 3,804
- 61
- 48
- Location
- Carver, Oregon
i got my M1008 for 1k 
ralbelt
Active member
- 1,056
- 9
- 38
- Location
- West Warwick, R.I.
i'm into mine for about 2,500 Gl purchase and updates, no tommy lift, which must be worth 1,000. So if its a good truck he is probably not far off the mark.
Got back from my trip + errands just now. Heres the report on the truck:
Body: Rustier than I was able to tell in the picks. Has a few large holes drilled in box for some sort of mounting equipment. Probably ~1inch mains with four support bolts surrounding each main. Total of 10 bolt holes on each side of the box. Dent in drivers side fender. More rust than I had anticipated but it really was sorta minor surface rust. Tommy lift didn't work. Powered on but wouldn't actuate. The salesmen told me it worked. Its minnesota and it is really cold so maybe it is[was] frozen.
Engine: It was a bear to start, but I have confidence the batteries and starter are rock solid. Generators work well I would guess. I had to turn it and turn it and turn it to get her to started. That gear reduction starter has some serious horsepower. You could just bolt it on in front of the tranny. I think it had air in the injector lines or something because once I got her started she actually ran very even. Just took some turning. Also when I started cranking it there was no, or very little smoke, coming from the exhaust. Before she actually started she really chugged some smoke and then turned on with a roar. Sounded kinda impressive honestly.... I love the 'purr' of diesels. Power was good. It had dual exhaust and it was A LOT peppier than I had expected. IT would have beat my old 7.3 off the line by a long shot. Anti-freeze was leaking from somewhere on the back of the engine, fairly steady drip. I don't think the injector pump was leaking, I didn't find any diesel anywhere. The engine was --COLLLD-- when I got there. I didn't call and tell anyone I was coming because I didn't want the dealership to hook a block heater up or idle it.
Drivetrain: Transfer case/HI LO FWD worked. Transmission modulator or something was gimped as it shifted way past redline. It didn't shift out of first when I was in 4LO.
Hubs worked.
What I did: On craigslist the truck was listed at 3950. On the lot it was listed at 4590 or something like that. I went there with the intention of offering 2500 cash but that coolant leak on top of a few other things made the decision. I'd hate to buy a truck with a questionably cracked head/block for the same price as a truck without one. So I passed on the truck but the salesmen told me of another dealership that was at the same auction as him and got 15+ trucks. Tomorrow after work I am going to check it out. I feel good about tomorrow. If nothing else I'll get to drive a bunch of trucks for an hour or two.
I am going into this knowing that I'll be spending another 1k+ off the bat in fluids, grease, and general maintenance. I am really thinking about putting a flatbed on the back of whatever truck I get. Sorry but she'll be a work truck. Plowin+beehives+moving trees and shrubs about.
I don't have picks, didn't think of it. I'll see what I can do next time.
Body: Rustier than I was able to tell in the picks. Has a few large holes drilled in box for some sort of mounting equipment. Probably ~1inch mains with four support bolts surrounding each main. Total of 10 bolt holes on each side of the box. Dent in drivers side fender. More rust than I had anticipated but it really was sorta minor surface rust. Tommy lift didn't work. Powered on but wouldn't actuate. The salesmen told me it worked. Its minnesota and it is really cold so maybe it is[was] frozen.
Engine: It was a bear to start, but I have confidence the batteries and starter are rock solid. Generators work well I would guess. I had to turn it and turn it and turn it to get her to started. That gear reduction starter has some serious horsepower. You could just bolt it on in front of the tranny. I think it had air in the injector lines or something because once I got her started she actually ran very even. Just took some turning. Also when I started cranking it there was no, or very little smoke, coming from the exhaust. Before she actually started she really chugged some smoke and then turned on with a roar. Sounded kinda impressive honestly.... I love the 'purr' of diesels. Power was good. It had dual exhaust and it was A LOT peppier than I had expected. IT would have beat my old 7.3 off the line by a long shot. Anti-freeze was leaking from somewhere on the back of the engine, fairly steady drip. I don't think the injector pump was leaking, I didn't find any diesel anywhere. The engine was --COLLLD-- when I got there. I didn't call and tell anyone I was coming because I didn't want the dealership to hook a block heater up or idle it.
Drivetrain: Transfer case/HI LO FWD worked. Transmission modulator or something was gimped as it shifted way past redline. It didn't shift out of first when I was in 4LO.
Hubs worked.
What I did: On craigslist the truck was listed at 3950. On the lot it was listed at 4590 or something like that. I went there with the intention of offering 2500 cash but that coolant leak on top of a few other things made the decision. I'd hate to buy a truck with a questionably cracked head/block for the same price as a truck without one. So I passed on the truck but the salesmen told me of another dealership that was at the same auction as him and got 15+ trucks. Tomorrow after work I am going to check it out. I feel good about tomorrow. If nothing else I'll get to drive a bunch of trucks for an hour or two.
I am going into this knowing that I'll be spending another 1k+ off the bat in fluids, grease, and general maintenance. I am really thinking about putting a flatbed on the back of whatever truck I get. Sorry but she'll be a work truck. Plowin+beehives+moving trees and shrubs about.
I don't have picks, didn't think of it
. I'll see what I can do next time.
Last edited:
Got back from my trip + errands just now. Heres the report on the truck:
Body: Rustier than I was able to tell in the picks. Has a few large holes drilled in box for some sort of mounting equipment. Probably ~1inch mains with four support bolts surrounding each main. Total of 10 bolt holes on each side of the box. Dent in drivers side fender. More rust than I had anticipated but it really was sorta minor surface rust. Tommy lift didn't work. Powered on but wouldn't actuate. The salesmen told me it worked. Its minnesota and it is really cold so maybe it is[was] frozen.
Engine: It was a bear to start, but I have confidence the batteries and starter are rock solid. Generators work well I would guess. I had to turn it and turn it and turn it to get her to started. That gear reduction starter has some serious horsepower. You could just bolt it on in front of the tranny. I think it had air in the injector lines or something because once I got her started she actually ran very even. Just took some turning. Also when I started cranking it there was no, or very little smoke, coming from the exhaust. Before she actually started she really chugged some smoke and then turned on with a roar. Sounded kinda impressive honestly.... I love the 'purr' of diesels. Power was good. It had dual exhaust and it was A LOT peppier than I had expected. IT would have beat my old 7.3 off the line by a long shot. Anti-freeze was leaking from somewhere on the back of the engine, fairly steady drip. I don't think the injector pump was leaking, I didn't find any diesel anywhere. The engine was --COLLLD-- when I got there. I didn't call and tell anyone I was coming because I didn't want the dealership to hook a block heater up or idle it.
Drivetrain: Transfer case/HI LO FWD worked. Transmission modulator or something was gimped as it shifted way past redline. It didn't shift out of first when I was in 4LO.
Hubs worked.
What I did: On craigslist the truck was listed at 3950. On the lot it was listed at 4590 or something like that. I went there with the intention of offering 2500 cash but that coolant leak on top of a few other things made the decision. I'd hate to buy a truck with a questionably cracked head/block for the same price as a truck without one. So I passed on the truck but the salesmen told me of another dealership that was at the same auction as him and got 15+ trucks. Tomorrow after work I am going to check it out. I feel good about tomorrow. If nothing else I'll get to drive a bunch of trucks in for an hour or two.
I am going into this knowing that I'll be spending another 1k+ off the bat in fluids, grease, and general maintenance.
Sorry I don't have picks, didn't think of it. I'll see what I can do next time.
Body: Rustier than I was able to tell in the picks. Has a few large holes drilled in box for some sort of mounting equipment. Probably ~1inch mains with four support bolts surrounding each main. Total of 10 bolt holes on each side of the box. Dent in drivers side fender. More rust than I had anticipated but it really was sorta minor surface rust. Tommy lift didn't work. Powered on but wouldn't actuate. The salesmen told me it worked. Its minnesota and it is really cold so maybe it is[was] frozen.
Engine: It was a bear to start, but I have confidence the batteries and starter are rock solid. Generators work well I would guess. I had to turn it and turn it and turn it to get her to started. That gear reduction starter has some serious horsepower. You could just bolt it on in front of the tranny. I think it had air in the injector lines or something because once I got her started she actually ran very even. Just took some turning. Also when I started cranking it there was no, or very little smoke, coming from the exhaust. Before she actually started she really chugged some smoke and then turned on with a roar. Sounded kinda impressive honestly.... I love the 'purr' of diesels. Power was good. It had dual exhaust and it was A LOT peppier than I had expected. IT would have beat my old 7.3 off the line by a long shot. Anti-freeze was leaking from somewhere on the back of the engine, fairly steady drip. I don't think the injector pump was leaking, I didn't find any diesel anywhere. The engine was --COLLLD-- when I got there. I didn't call and tell anyone I was coming because I didn't want the dealership to hook a block heater up or idle it.
Drivetrain: Transfer case/HI LO FWD worked. Transmission modulator or something was gimped as it shifted way past redline. It didn't shift out of first when I was in 4LO.
Hubs worked.
What I did: On craigslist the truck was listed at 3950. On the lot it was listed at 4590 or something like that. I went there with the intention of offering 2500 cash but that coolant leak on top of a few other things made the decision. I'd hate to buy a truck with a questionably cracked head/block for the same price as a truck without one. So I passed on the truck but the salesmen told me of another dealership that was at the same auction as him and got 15+ trucks. Tomorrow after work I am going to check it out. I feel good about tomorrow. If nothing else I'll get to drive a bunch of trucks in for an hour or two.
I am going into this knowing that I'll be spending another 1k+ off the bat in fluids, grease, and general maintenance.
Sorry I don't have picks, didn't think of it
. I'll see what I can do next time.
HardCorps79
New member
- 281
- 3
- 0
- Location
- Kansas City, MO
Welcome to the forum, Ignus. Sounds like you made a wise decision. I paid around $2500 for my M1009 and it was pretty cherry. Hardly any rust to speak of and running quite well. Have had to replace the IP as it was leaking (upon attempting leak repair realized the whole thing was about shot), and need to rebuild the front end. But if you budget a used car payment a month to maintain and repair the truck, you should end up with a pretty much rebuilt truck in the space of a couple years. And the engines should run a good long time beyond that. I'd say even $2,500 for that one with all the problems it was showing was too high. They might have just been minor and due to the cold, but you never know until you've been driving it for a while.
I'd recommend looking on here in the classifieds section. Most members here should have a good idea of what's wrong and what's been repaired and hopefully will be honest enough to give you an accurate assessment of the truck's real condition. And it will save you the hassle of titling, towing, etc. from GL.
I'd recommend looking on here in the classifieds section. Most members here should have a good idea of what's wrong and what's been repaired and hopefully will be honest enough to give you an accurate assessment of the truck's real condition. And it will save you the hassle of titling, towing, etc. from GL.