Air Horn Solenoid

[M215]

Hello SS,
Anyone have a spare 24v air horn solenoid they would like to part with? NOS or good take off is OK, please send price with shipping. Prefer to pay with Paypal.
Thanks, Karl

 

[acetomatoco]

In your signature.. Kaiser is the spelling fyi.. 2 times.

 

[WillWagner]

Karl, do you have the innards...plunger and spring? PM me.

 

[oifvet]

What is an easy way to troubleshoot the horn? How did you isolate the solenoid as the problem? How can one find out if a horn issue is air or electric, (easily)?

M215? Bueller? Anyone?

 

[Jones]

Remove solenoid and using an air nozzle with valve like you would use for blowing chips in a shop, apply air to the horn where the solenoid is attached. If it honks, then check to see if you're getting current to the solenoid when the horn button is pushed. If you are then replace the valve. If no juice to the solenoid then it's gotta be in the horn button circuit; bad horn button, bad feed or bad ground. Pressing the horn button with no air in the system may give a click but that only tells you that the solenoid stage of it is working, not necessarily that the valve inside is opening. If everything checks out then go looking for a kink in the air delivery line.

 

[oifvet]

Great! Thanks! I'll direct sparky50 to this thread. His horn is inop right now.

 

[Barrman]

The air is easy. Remove the solenoid and start up the truck. Air should be coming out of the solenoid hole. If it does, the you can pretty much be sure the truck air psi is the same as what is at your horn. (Drain the tanks before you pull the solenoid!)

Electrical wise there are two wires that go to the horn. 24V positive and a ground. It doesn't matter which one is hooked where. Use a volt meter and see if one of the wires provides the voltage when the button is pushed. If no, then check out the horn button wiring. If yes, then start looking at the solenoid.

When you pull it apart, there is a plunger and a spring inside. That is it.

 

[Jones]

Barman, Good safety tip on draining air tanks before working on the air system. Left it out of my post but I'm glad to see you're on the ball.

Ace, In your signature, the text should either read; "no MV was" or "no MVs were" injured... take your choice.
A period or semicolon would be more correct than a comma after 'message'.
"Energized" is the correct spelling. fyi

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

Re: RE: Air Horn Solenoid

Barman, Good safety tip on draining air tanks before working on the air system. Left it out of my post but I'm glad to see you're on the ball.

Ace, In your signature, the text should either read; "no MV was" or "no MVs were" injured... take your choice.
A period or semicolon would be more correct than a comma after 'message'.
"Energized" is the correct spelling. fyi

LMAO

 

[Barrman]

RE: Re: RE: Air Horn Solenoid

My students walked in about half way through the above post and I had to rush the last part. To continue:

Voltage to the solenoid and a good ground means the solenoid is probably not right. I had one that would shock the day light out of me if I had my hand on it and was touching the truck with another part of my body. Bad windings is the cause. So, don't be a human test light. Remove the solenoid and stick it in a vise. Then apply the positive and negative. The plunger should "CLICK" and "CLACK" as the power is add and removed.

 

[RollingThunder19]

Is the bottom assembly the solenoid? I found on mine that the wire in the column was broke and after fixing it still nothing from the horn. I tested ththe horn with straight 24v and it works.