Air up to shorten start up time?

[ramdough]

Looking to use my shop compressor to pressurize my system so I can get out of my shop faster. The goal is not to skip any start up checks, but to get out the door before I fumigate the shop as much with exhaust. Then I can do my checks outside.

Any advice on where to tap in? Thinking before the Haldex PURest.

Is this a bad idea?


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[Reworked LMTV]

Since there are times when you will want to be out of the weather, and test your vehicle, I have one of those heavy duty rubber exhaust hoses that you see at auto garages. I have experimented with turbine style fans for more pull. Did not find a fan necessary for general use. Works well.

 

[Ronmar]

You can make a gladhand adapter and apply air to the emergency gladhand on the front of the vehicle. This will charge/fill your air system with shop air. It will also release your parking brakes so you may need to chock the wheels if your floor is not level. Your shop air also needs to be dry as air added this way does not pass thru the air dryer and you dont want to introduce any added moisture...

 

[MAdams]

I do it all the time mainly for wear and tear. Because I would rather replace my shop air compressor than the trucks engine mounted compressor. One issue is the moisture your putting into the system

 

[ramdough]

I was thinking of plumbing in before the air dryer so I can benefit from the dryer. Thinking of maybe teeing in a check valve, a ball valve to make sure, and then a male air chuck fitting.

I don’t want to do the glad hand thing because I don’t want to lose my parking brakes on accident. Plus, I might do this regularly.


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[Ronmar]

I was thinking of plumbing in before the air dryer so I can benefit from the dryer. Thinking of maybe teeing in a check valve, a ball valve to make sure, and then a male air chuck fitting.

I don’t want to do the glad hand thing because I don’t want to lose my parking brakes on accident. Plus, I might do this regularly.


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That would be the best way to do it depending on how much air you plan on flowing thru the system. The air dryer needs to be purged regularly to maintain its effectiveness if you are flowing a lot of air thru it. You may also need a check valve to keep air from flowing back toward the engine driven compressor...

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

I put a tee with a check valve and male QD fitting in the drain on my wet tank drain. I have a filter/water separator on my shop air.

 

[NDT]

Option b is fix your leaks. I maintain a M1079 for FD and it holds 100 psi for weeks.

 

[sue]

Normal air fitting, air up tires, blow out dust, etc.
Keep a male to male jumper hose ( very short)
for charging from shop air

 

[Third From Texas]

Do you drain the air tanks each night?

Because if not, the tanks should be full every morning unless there are leaks.

 

[Suprman]

Install a small 24v compressor with a one way check valve into the system before the air dryer. I have been considering this for a while. Just not a lot of time in my day. Just in case I have an air issue then I have some sort of back up. Will

 

[cjcottrill]

Used to be a common feature on fire trucks. There are several options available that will automatically disconnect either when the vehicle starts or when it starts to move. You might check any fire apparatus supply house for parts and methods of installation. Stop by a couple of local fire departments and see them in use to see if that helps you decide which way to go.


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[TehTDK]

I would love this feature on modern trucks as well. I have seen my share of truck leaking air so badly that they empty out the tanks over night, but does keep air during the work day with the engine topping up the tanks via the compressor. Needless to say its not optimal in any given way, but yea fixing the leaks would be priority #1