Alignment help needed after shim removal!

[Pstyckiewicz]

So I had to replace a seal on the hub and while I had everything off I decided to take the shims off. There were 3 on each side and there were slotted so I loosened the nuts and slid them out. I put everything back together and my toe in is crazy out of wack. No idea how to align this thing and I have done some reading but if anyone would like to break it down for me so a caveman could understand it that would be great haha.

I only did the left rear so far.

I watched some string methods but unsure if that works?

Also I am only removing the shims from the rear and only need to align the rear.

 

[mgFray]

Your rear hubs are the same as the front, including the 'steering' connector, the difference is they connect to the frame of the vehicle. This means as weight is added it effectively pushes the "steering" rod out, causing the toe to go more neutral.

It's just a standard slip style coupling. You loosen the bolts on both sides and just rotate it in and out to move your tow in and out.. just remember to set it ON THE GROUND and normal driving weight.

(I went to a local shop and they did it for me. Cost about $250 for the alignment -- BUT the parts were seized on mine and needed to be replaced.. so add another $200 for aftermarket parts or $500 for the "real thing")

 

[Thunderbirds]

Here is a video with basic breakdown on the principals.

Then, follow the TM (9-2320-280-20-2 Paragraph 8-11, page 8.38 . Also front end is para 8-10, page 8-32.

Some follow on maintenance required. These TMs are written with a 18 year old high school graduate in mind. Pretty easy to follow.

 

[Pstyckiewicz]

Thank you

 

[TNDRIVER]

So I had to replace a seal on the hub and while I had everything off I decided to take the shims off. There were 3 on each side and there were slotted so I loosened the nuts and slid them out. I put everything back together and my toe in is crazy out of wack. No idea how to align this thing and I have done some reading but if anyone would like to break it down for me so a caveman could understand it that would be great haha.

I only did the left rear so far.

I watched some string methods but unsure if that works?

Also I am only removing the shims from the rear and only need to align the rear.

Not only do you set the toe on the rear but the "thrust angle" has to be set. The thrust angle just "points" the rear wheels centered with the chassis.
The sting will work but not too precise. Instead......... fabricate a short piece of square aluminum tubing to set into the wheel not touching the tire. You can epoxy tabs to position it. Take a small torpedo level with a laser and have your helper hold the level on the outside of the aluminum bar and shoot a line beside the front wheel, should be a couple of inches from the center of the hub. Adjust both sides to the same measurement, makes no difference what the measurement is, just EQUAL both side. Now your rear wheels are pointed straight ahead. Now set your toe out. Now recenter your rear again making sure to keep the measurements equal side to side. You can also use a similar bar method to set the toe independent of the tires indexed off the wheel instead but involves careful fabrication ot the aluminum bar. I would recommend buying a set of pitman/tie rod adjusting wrenches, I have a pet peeve about pipe wrenches being used on tire rods. If your shims are all out don't be surprised if the is still some caster in the rear. (Digital protractor and aluminum bar again) Have fun and learn.