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Allison M916 + Mk48 Cab = 6x6 "FEMTT"

Csm Davis

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I had to shorten it about two feet in order to get it to fit on the back of the FEMTT.
The photos show it set on to the frame, to decide on the configuration for the ISO container twist locks (still on order after 3 Weeks!! :evil:).

I will also start fabrication on the "Fifth Wheel Module" right away, so I have the truck tractor capability back ASAP.....pics will follow....
Soni
Okay really curious about that fifth wheel setup come on we know you have started. And about the ISO locks I know they are strong but do you know what the working load limit is on them? Thinking about making some interchangeable things for one of my trucks also and I have a tendency to get stupid on what I put my personal trucks through, thanks for any information on this.
 

patracy

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This is awesome Soni. I like this approach better than the silly 105 bed module I tried. Are you going to make a 5th wheel module as well?
 

Mike929

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I'm curious, with the frame and attachment locked down, is this going to cause an issue with frame flex being concentrated in front of the forward mount?

I'm guessing frame flex is not a concern (i.e., you are not taking this off road.) I'm mainly curious because I'm thinking of adopting your idea for my M931A2 so I can have interchangeable attachments with Kung Foo Grip on the back. :)
 

Castle Bravo

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Some good looking trucks.

femtt.jpg


Soni mentioned that one of the cool things about the Oshkosh cab forward design is that it lends itself to being thought of as definitely military. Nobody mistakes it for just some commercial truck you painted.
 

marchplumber

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Some good looking trucks.

View attachment 507364


Soni mentioned that one of the cool things about the Oshkosh cab forward design is that it lends itself to being thought of as definitely military. Nobody mistakes it for just some commercial truck you painted.

With some amazing capabilities and different capacities!! (Thanks for sharing the adventure!)

God bless
Tony
 

ke5eua

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Since I had to do some research on the different "Budd caps" (inner wheel nuts) that are available on the market, in order to find the most suitable style for the rear of the M916-M920 trucks, I figured I should share my findings with the board.

This should be of interest to anyone that is putting singles with HEMTT wheels on the rear of these trucks.

As I mentioned above, the issue is the fact that the original wheel studs are to short for this conversion and the single style wheel nuts will not engage more then about 5/8 of am inch of thread. This is not acceptable and dangerous!


One option I have seen, is to just only use the extra long inner nuts (Budd caps) that are used with aluminum wheels. I personally do not like to use the "inners" by themselves. They have a very narrow tapered lip that is not intended to hold the wheel on without an outer wheel and a larger outer wheel nut against it.

This is why I use the system with the "blind" inner wheel as described in the previous thread. In addition it gives me a little extra track on the rear, making the difference between the rear axles and the front axle less pronounced.

It is very important though to use the 'Budd caps' that are best suited for this specific application.

Here are some pics of the different Budd caps that I have found:

-The shortest one on the left is a stock inner wheel nut as used on most dual steel wheel applications.

-The next one over to the right is an extended 'inner' that is only longer on the outside threads and is intended for applications where an inner steel wheel is combined with an outer aluminum wheel.

-Next to it is a 'inner' that is used with dual aluminum wheels but standard lengh inner threads.

-And finally, on the right is the one that I use and recommend for the HEMTT wheels. It has the extended length on the outside threads and it has FULL LENGTH TREADS on the inside, to catch as much of the factory wheel studs as possible.

One more thing: Any of the 'inners', that have the extra shoulder on the inside of the taper, can only be used with a 'blind' inner wheel plate that is 5/8" or thicker. If the plates are thinner then that, I recommend the use of the 'steel inner / aluminum outer' style 'Budd caps' (second from the left in the pic).

Soni
Two things:

Where did you source the bud caps from, part numbers, etc.

Can the "blind" inner be sourced or does that have to be made from old rims.
 

M920

Member
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Location
chama/nm
Okay really curious about that fifth wheel setup come on we know you have started. And about the ISO locks I know they are strong but do you know what the working load limit is on them? Thinking about making some interchangeable things for one of my trucks also and I have a tendency to get stupid on what I put my personal trucks through, thanks for any information on this.
Well, I have not started the fifth wheel module yet, but I promise that I will post pics as soon as I do! The corner castings for the next three modules are ordered and are supposed to be delivered a week from now!:grin:

I have changed the design again and it will now have the 45,000# winch mounted on the front of the module again. It just makes more sense, to only have it with modules that need it, and where it is actually useable. So only the fifth wheel module and the wrecker / recovery module will have a 45,000# drag winch and they will be module mounted. The hydraulics will connect to the FEMTT's hydraulic system via quick couplers.

According to the manufacturer and in accordance with US DOT regs, the ISO container twist locks working load limits is 20,000# a piece, so a total of 80,000# for four of them.
There will be an additional lip on the front of the fifth wheel- and the wrecker / recovery module that engages it to the crane base. This is needed due to the fact, that those two modules will experience a lot of pull / push, when in service.

Soni
 

M920

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Location
chama/nm
This is awesome Soni. I like this approach better than the silly 105 bed module I tried. Are you going to make a 5th wheel module as well?
Yes Drew,
So far I'm planning to build the following modules:

-Dump bed

-Fifth wheel

-Flat bed with removable drop sides

-1200 gallon stainless tank

-Wrecker / Recovery

-Camping pod

Soni
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
I'm curious, with the frame and attachment locked down, is this going to cause an issue with frame flex being concentrated in front of the forward mount?

I'm guessing frame flex is not a concern (i.e., you are not taking this off road.) I'm mainly curious because I'm thinking of adopting your idea for my M931A2 so I can have interchangeable attachments with Kung Foo Grip on the back. :)
Most of the modules will flex with the frame, but the 'Tank- and the 'Camping-Module will have a flexible front mount to allow the frame to flex without putting undue stress in to the module.

Oh and I will certainly take this truck "off-road"......that is what it is built for!

Soni
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Two things:

Where did you source the bud caps from, part numbers, etc.

Can the "blind" inner be sourced or does that have to be made from old rims.
Bud caps came from NAPA.....I will see if I can post the NAPA part numbers, but they are probably cheaper from your local truck supply house.....just don't have one of those in Chama....lol

I think the "blind" inners have to be made.....never saw any commercially available.....anybody?

Soni
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
2,568
41
48
Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Bud caps came from NAPA.....I will see if I can post the NAPA part numbers, but they are probably cheaper from your local truck supply house.....just don't have one of those in Chama....lol

I think the "blind" inners have to be made.....never saw any commercially available.....anybody?

Soni
I ended up going to a truck shop. But the inners I found some sources on the interwebs, basically just a spacer.
 

M920

Member
892
25
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Location
chama/nm
I ended up going to a truck shop. But the inners I found some sources on the interwebs, basically just a spacer.
Make sure the "spacers" you found have the taper for the inner side of the budd caps machined in to their holes.
I found some, back when I did the first conversion, but they where truly just spacers....no taper in the holes.

So unless you have a milling machine or a big heavy duty drill press, it is at least somewhat of a challenge to machine the proper taper in to the holes. For me it ended up being easier to just cut the center out of some of the many left over 5-ton wheels that "decorate" the country site around my shop!

Oh...and btw, if you are like me and have a hard time scraping anything that is still remotely usable......it is a lot easier to part with them after they have a nasty torched hole where the center used to be! :roll:

Soni
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Dump Bed

Just a couple of quick pics that show the hydraulic cylinder arrangement under the USMC 7 ton MTVR dump bed.

I'm getting ready to paint the underside today. after that I will be turning it back over and painting the top side as well.

Soni

 

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