• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Alternate use for a M1101: Truck bed

Squall Line

New member
5
0
0
Location
GA
I bought two of these trailers and thought it would be a good project to use as a pickup bed. I will eventually build a shelter for it and the idea of using it between a mobile unit and the truck was appealing. I was also rear endedand was having a hard time finding a clean 3rd gen Dodge long bed without rust. I used unistrut 12ga rails as the interface to the truck frame. I still need to do the outboard mounts, but it is currently through bolted with 1/2" hardware on the middle three crossmembers. I still need to paint the box and truck in addition to leveling the front and swapping new wheels for a wider stance (going with 0 offset from the factory 43mm) Any questions on the process - fire away.


View attachment 707289IMG_2403 2.jpgIMG_2667.jpg

For Huck Bolt removal (huge PITA) I found the best method was to cut the rivet with a angle grinder straight on then split with a air chisel from the same aspect. This would splay the rivet and then you hit it from the side flush with the air chisel and it would usually pop both sides flush. I also did a lot of flush cutting and grinding with the angle grinder to start.

IMG_2631.jpgIMG_2665.jpgIMG_2680.jpg
M1101 light harness with OEM lighting pigtails from a junkyard truck.
IMG_2685.jpgIMG_2684.jpgIMG_2686.jpg
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
1,776
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Hope your not done yet.
DOT will have issue with no bumper.
Taillights are also too high for that class of truck.


Definitely looks.......ummm....different.
 

Squall Line

New member
5
0
0
Location
GA
Yep......ummm....not done.

Figured I would post some content since this site was helpful in the process of doing the project. Bumper is on the to do list along with paint, suspension work and wheels. It's not for everyone and that's OK. Works for me and fixed the rusted out bed problem. The width isn't aesthetically pleasing, but it works for setting up a transverse bunk and leaving most of the bed open for gear and the dog.
 

red

Active member
1,988
25
38
Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
What about setting the bed directly on the frame? From the side pic that would lower it to where the top of the bed would be about even with the bottom of the windows (fits the truck lines better in my opinion)
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,500
1,678
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
I thought the bed was sitting up too high as well.

Will you be painting the trailer to match the truck, or the truck to match the trailer?
 

Squall Line

New member
5
0
0
Location
GA
The truck and bed will eventually be a matte grey or semi gloss black. I would have preferred lower too, but the pictures attached will show the points of interference. The rear spring hangers have about 1/4" clearance and the front passenger side shock has about 1/16" at the current height. I could notch and plate the M1101 frame, and that may be a consideration in the future. I am also specing under bed tool boxes for in front of the wheels.

If this were attempted with a cab and chassis frame, there would be a lot fewer issues.

Appreciate the feedback

IMG_2707.jpgIMG_2710.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks