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Aluminum Champion vs OEM Radiator

tjonesdfw

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The radiator on my 1123 is full of sludge and rust. The lower tube on my truck was not stainless and had disintegrated from the inside out which was hard to tell since it was entirely covered in undercoating. Since I’m already installing new hoses, a water pump, and replacing my leaking heater core, I wanted to have the radiator rodded/cleaned. However prices to do a radiator around here are nearly the cost of a new aluminum Champion radiator. Some say an aluminum unit like a Champion is the way to go, but others say even nicer aluminum units like a Ron Davis have eventually cracked at the mounts on H1s. I’ve also heard the “new” factory radiators shipping from Mac motors and such are now aluminum anyway, hence more confusion. What’s the consensus around here for the best radiator?
 

Maxjeep1

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I think the Champion can be had for 255.00 that makes it the best IMO. I was also told by a radiator guy that nothing is better than brass and he can re core anything. If I needed one I would go the champion route.
 

springer1981

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The original OEM radiator is pretty tough in general. I had mine "fixed" at a local radiator shop, you can read about it starting here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2359161 Then I fixed it myself. I would do a good flush of your radiator and get it pressure tested. If the brackets are separated or cracked like mine were then get them fixed. Look at mine so you understand what the issues are. IMO, I would exhaust all possibilities of saving yours first. After that it is a matter of cost. OEM $1000-$1200 or Champion Aluminum $250. If the Champion Aluminum holds up for 5 years then 5 of them would hold up for 25 years and cost about the same LOL. My OEM is 30 years old.
 

tjonesdfw

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The original OEM radiator is pretty tough in general. I had mine "fixed" at a local radiator shop, you can read about it starting here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2359161 Then I fixed it myself. I would do a good flush of your radiator and get it pressure tested. If the brackets are separated or cracked like mine were then get them fixed. Look at mine so you understand what the issues are. IMO, I would exhaust all possibilities of saving yours first. After that it is a matter of cost. OEM $1000-$1200 or Champion Aluminum $250. If the Champion Aluminum holds up for 5 years then 5 of them would hold up for 25 years and cost about the same LOL. My OEM is 30 years old.
Thanks! Certainly gives me some spots to look for when I pull mine apart.
 

TOBASH

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Aluminum rads last decades. I prefer brass as it can be repaired by any shoppe in an emergency.

EDIT - Still, $300 Aluminum vs $800 recore or $1000 OEM new is a huge huge incentive to go Aluminum. Heck, buy 2 and keep a spare for that price. (I personally keep an Aluminum as a spare because the price is affordable.)
 
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springer1981

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I don't think there is a strength issue with a well made Aluminum radiator and that begs the question if the Champion radiator is well made? I have no idea. Is the OEM HMMWV radiator well made? You can bet money on it. Here is a good article I found comparing Aluminum vs. Copper/Brass. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp-0211-aluminum-or-copper-radiator-for-your-car/

IMO, I would probably switch out to a cheaper Aluminum radiator if mine needed to be replaced because it was beyond financial repair. Since my HMMWV is a personal toy and my life doesn't depend on it, the Aluminum would probably be fine. Reading the above article closely indicates that not all Aluminum radiators are designed, manufactured and warrantied equally. It may be a matter of you get what you pay for.

I would be shocked if you needed to recore your radiator. I would also doubt there is anything really wrong with it. I too had a rusted out lower return line that I replaced with the stainless steel one. Same stock radiator turns 30 years old this year.
 

TOBASH

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My 1987 radiator seemed OK from the top, however when I pulled the stack there were three small leaks developing. I replaced immediately and in doing so I was also able to clean the stack and get rid of all the dirt and crud so now everything breathes really well.

Bottom line is old radiators are unpredictable no matter what they’re made out of and they should be checked carefully and they can be replaced.

None of us knows how good this Aluminum radiator is because it is newer on the market, however I have one in the storage closet in case the radiator on either of my vehicles fails. I ensured I have an emergency fix.
 

Mogman

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The Champion has a lifetime warranty and and 1 aluminum core cools as good as a 2 core copper, so that 3 core Champion cools much better than the 4 core copper, I have been real happy with mine and have run it with a 435HP tune with no cooling issues. in fact only on the hottest days can I hear the Hayden thermal fan clutch kick in.
 
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86humv

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Champion only been selling them a year or so...so Will see what happens after some time.
And the 2 companies that sell Aluminum ones for Hmmwv's are made in china....at different factories.
 

Maxjeep1

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Splitbuilds on YouTube installs one and it looks like it fit nice and decent quality. Champion has been making radiators for at least 3 years that I know of.
 

Hammer

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Hate the China part of this...
But, if/when I have to replace mine, I like to at least know what my options are.
I am not as worried about the cost, but I have a simple philosophy, if I have to replace something, I usually like to upgrade while I do.
 

Maxjeep1

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I called them today...They said 1+ years on the Hmmwv type.
That’s probably 100% true. I was referring to the brand and when I was looking for my H2 radiator i came across it but I couldn’t find any information or feedback and it was so cheap I was afraid of it. The brand has been around awhile and the process shouldn’t be that different from vehicle to vehicle. It looked good in the video
 

Mullaney

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Hate the China part of this...
But, if/when I have to replace mine, I like to at least know what my options are.
I am not as worried about the cost, but I have a simple philosophy, if I have to replace something, I usually like to upgrade while I do.
.
Yep, the most difficult part is the import game. Back 80 years ago, there were people who really hacked off a lot of Americans. To the point that some of the folks here wouldn't drive a foreign vehicle.

------

Didn't post this in the DAILY JOKE section... Cause it isn't a joke!

A person looking for a job...
While his coffeepot (MADE IN CHINA) was perking,
he shaved with his electric razor (MADE IN HONG KONG)
He put on a dress shirt (MADE IN SRI LANKA),
designer jeans (MADE IN SINGAPORE) and
tennis shoes (MADE IN KOREA)
After cooking his breakfast in his new electric skillet (MADE IN INDIA)
he sat down with his calculator (MADE IN MEXICO) to see how much he could spend today.
After setting his watch (MADE IN TAIWAN )
to the radio (MADE IN INDIA )
he got in his car (MADE IN GERMANY )
filled it with GAS (from Saudi Arabia )
and continued his search for a good paying AMERICAN JOB.
At the end of yet another discouraging and fruitless day checking his Computer (made in MALAYSIA ), John decided to relax for a while.
He put on his sandals (MADE IN BRAZIL), poured himself a glass of wine (MADE IN FRANCE )
and turned on his TV (MADE IN INDONESIA),
and then wondered why he can't find a good paying job in AMERICA
 

juanprado

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Almost all auto parts are made overseas somewhere. Hard to escape it. Been that way in the 25 years I sold parts starting in 82. Most automotive aftermarket companies are worldwide enterprises.

There is cheap knock off copies of parts but not all Chinese auto parts are junk as they are made to specs for American companies. If it is in a box with a reputable label of a known brand, then I feel way more comfortable than a plain box or zip lock baggie.

Chinese have had a knock off copy of the hmmwv in their military for years so if I need a radiator in the future , I would go with it as there already producing them and reversed engineered the specs....


A solid aluminum unit is much better than some of the oe crap out there with plastic tanks that are guaranteed to fail, just a matter of time .....
 

tjonesdfw

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Is there any risk of running too cool with one of these aluminum Champions? I've seen stories of guys running the Flow Kooler water pump, which I understand is essentially a copy of the late model high flow H1 water pump, and aluminum radiators, some of whom have issues making heat in the winter. We're in Texas, so its not a huge concern, but diesels still need some amount of heat to run efficiently.
 

Mogman

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Is there any risk of running too cool with one of these aluminum Champions? I've seen stories of guys running the Flow Kooler water pump, which I understand is essentially a copy of the late model high flow H1 water pump, and aluminum radiators, some of whom have issues making heat in the winter. We're in Texas, so its not a huge concern, but diesels still need some amount of heat to run efficiently.
Interesting, the thermostat should control minimum temperature, BUT many thermostats let some water flow to the radiator to combat thermal shock, maybe too much in these cases.
 
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