Amg m35a2

[DanielC]

Hi everyone, thanks for accepting me in the group. I recently bought my first deuce. I believe its a 1970 am general m35a2 with turbo hercules multifuel motor... the truck runs and drives but the brakes are sticking so im working on that... its hard to start cold so I have to give it one little squirt of starting fluid... the hydraulic head has had new o rings installed because it was leaking diesel into the oil... thats fixed and has fresh oil... oil and fuel filters were changed and bled... in tank pump doesn't work so I had to pressurize tank to bleed... truck surges between 400 and 1000 rpms until warm but will run and rev up all day with no problem... but when driving it around the yard under a load for a couple mins it will just shut down like someone pulled the stop lever or motor seized but it will start back... the generator regulator is bad but I have a new one otw... meantime I have to charge them with my truck one at a time after I drag them down starting it... solenoid on starter acts up when hot too... won't magnetize and close the contactor.... cools down and it will work again... would the pump or hh going out cause the shutting down under load issue? Thought I locked the motor up first time it happened... seems hard to turn over soon as it shuts down... thanks in advance

 

[cattlerepairman]

The sudden loss of power can be fuel filters clogging. If the truck sat a lot, crud may now be coming loose. It can clog even new filters quickly. Yes, it can feel as if someone is pulling the shutoff.
Sluggish turnover although it normally does start well...batteries are sulfated (good voltage but can't deliver the current) or auxiliary switch going bad. My 5 cents.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[DanielC]

Thanks for the quick reply... the motor sounds great when running so I didn't think it was an engine problem... the fuel adjustments i have playing with lightly after ready many fourms on here about them... adjusted the fuel screw on front of fdc which has been bypassed by the way... only turned it 2 flats at a time out 4 different times and back in 3 flats... adjusted the smoke limit I think its called underneath the fdc and the idle screw on top of throttle linkage slightly... has alot more power now but have this issue... I will definitely check it filters to see what they look like... they are only a few days old but the screen on bottom of in tank pump was opened up by someone and it has sat a while... but doesn't sound like a motor issue but a fuel issue right... tag on motor say it was rebuilt in 1994 and rod was stk and bore was stk

 

[cattlerepairman]

They will run without the in-tank pump if the rest of the fuel system is airtight and good, however, the in-tank pump is there for a reason. The booster pump attached to the injection pump is not supposed to get zero intake pressure. Some members have replaced a bad in-tank pump with an external 24V fuel pump (much cheaper) and it helps the injection pump by providing the needed fuel pressure.

 

[DanielC]

Do u think my fuel settings being off could cause this? The temp gauge stays around 160 or so when warmed up and when it stalls but after it shuts down the temp will go up to 200 and I will get a small amount of coolant out of the line coming from radiator cap... my first deuce and first experience with large diesel engines so I'm lost right now... lol

 

[DanielC]

I do have a 12v diesel pump thats 4-7 psi and 38 gph... will that work for now on a inline switch to 1 battery until my in tank replacement pump comes in?

 

[Floridianson]

Do not know if this is your problem. Ok when the FDC is hooked up and working the smoke and droop setting are set for only the emergency fuel listed for use. That way it keeps the fuel some what close to fuel / smoke droop limits. It does this because the servo wedge plate in the FDC is moving just a little up or down. Now when we bypass the FDC the servo no longer moves. So the only adjustment we can make is the main fuel adjustment on the twin nuts. If you set the main fuel adjustment after FDC bypass with the twin nuts and it was to your liking as in boost / load temperatures if you then go back and play with the smoke cam or droop screw all you are doing is changing your main fuel setting from where you had it. This is why after we bypass the FDC it will always smoke a little more on take off till the turbo kicks in but if you set the main fuel control / twin nuts correctly you can get more boost / power and the Temps / boost will be ok for you altitude. In most cases we have to lower the main fuel / twin nuts fuel after FDC bypass. This is because the bypassed FDC wedge plate is now in it's highest fuel setting.
Results vary so this is when you get the truck running right you need to check boost and temperatures are correct under heavy load using the main fuel adjustment.

 

[frank8003]

Put a new in-tank fuel pump with proper designed to be immersed fuel hose in it.
Change out all the filters and stop with the "starting fluid" which it is not.
~[ so I have to give it one little squirt of starting fluid. ]~

 

[DanielC]

Ok so u are saying don't use the inline pump right? Does anyone have an in tank pump they could sell me? I've only found 1 in stock online and it over $500. And I just ordered all 3 wix fuel filters again just to be safe. Sounds like yall agree its a fuel delivery issue so that helps ease my mind on it being an engine problem. What is a safe setting for fuel adjustments until I get a boost gauge and meter for egt? Compression is good and she runs great until it shuts down but I can not get her to cold start without starting fluid so how do I remedy that so she starts easier? U think the in tank pump will help? Fires up easier when warmed up but still have to give it throttle when starting. Thanks for all the help. There is no one in my area that has experience with these machines so hoping I can fix this myself with yalls help

 

[Floridianson]

Ok so u are saying don't use the inline pump right? Does anyone have an in tank pump they could sell me? I've only found 1 in stock online and it over $500. And I just ordered all 3 wix fuel filters again just to be safe. Sounds like yall agree its a fuel delivery issue so that helps ease my mind on it being an engine problem. What is a safe setting for fuel adjustments until I get a boost gauge and meter for egt? Compression is good and she runs great until it shuts down but I can not get her to cold start without starting fluid so how do I remedy that so she starts easier? U think the in tank pump will help? Fires up easier when warmed up but still have to give it throttle when starting. Thanks for all the help. There is no one in my area that has experience with these machines so hoping I can fix this myself with yalls help

Do not quoit me but If I remember six threads showing on the main fuel adjustment when the FDC was still hooked up. But now you have changed the smoke / droop screw it is any ones guess and it will be trial and error. I sent you a PM so just call me so my fingers do not get tired from a real long post on this thread.

 

[WillWagner]

Can you hear the pump running? It COULD be that the rubber hose has disintegrated and not pushing fuel, but you have enough fuel in the tank that fuel delivery is possible. Also, there is a fuse on the top of the pump under that little cover, could be blown, corroded, messes up ground or not there. Start with simple things first.

 

[DanielC]

I have done all that... pump itself is bad... the line in the tank is good... have a half tank of fuel in it... I only gave 1500 for the truck... im actually otw to get a 1968 jeep m35a2 with mulitfuel turbo in great shape with only 912 hours and 15000 miles on it... guy said runs and drives great, everything works , no rust and can drive home... already been registered and insured in ga... talked him down from 5500 to 4500... I think its a good deal what do yall think... may just keep this one I have for parts if needed or maybe sell... I have 2000 in it all together so may just sell for 2k and get my money back... he said this one cold starts easily with no throttle and runs perfect... in tank pump has been bypassed with new inline 24v pump and new pick up in tank

 

[frank8003]

For $2000 just drive it to my home and I you $2400.
You have to get it here. Is that a deal?

 

[DanielC]

For $2000 just drive it to my home and I you $2400.
You have to get it here. Is that a deal?

Where do u live?

 

[frank8003]

Where do u live?

I am in zip 33334 Ft.Lauderdale and I can help

 

[DanielC]

I am in zip 33334 Ft.Lauderdale and I can help

I don't really have a way to trailer it and I wouldn't feel safe driving it with the brakes needing work... but I will sell it to u if u want it... u are probably 5 or 6 hours away.. im in hampton sc 29924 zip

 

[dmetalmiki]

You do not mention anywhere using the manifold heater when cold starting.
If that is working correctly It will fire first time every time.
Check the dashboard for the manifold heater switch, And follow the instructions for use. Operate while cranking the engine only, ( Sometimes it only take a second or two while cranking, ( Varies from truck to truck )).
An in line pump is quite satisfactory to use.
5 ton trucks wont start without heat. Most deuces will.
Sounds like you got a super deal all round.

 

[DanielC]

Flame manifold heater has been deleted and removed... no leaks

 

[frank8003]

I don't really have a way to trailer it and I wouldn't feel safe driving it with the brakes needing work... but I will sell it to u if u want it... u are probably 5 or 6 hours away.. im in hampton sc 29924 zip

Post photos of truck

 

[SCSG-G4]

Daniel, could you come up to Columbia one Wednesday afternoon/evening (not with the deuce) and we can show you a few things about the deuces that will help you with your machine. There are seven deuces at our club compound right now, and Kip is working on his.