Another Brake Bleeding Question

[Jinx]

First off, yes I did search. Couldn't find anything on the site or in the TM's.

How much DOT 5 brake fluid do I need to bleed the brakes? I want to change out the old fluid for all new stuff. Since DOT 5 is expensive, I don't want to buy too much, but I want to have enough to get it changed without running out.

Second, what diameter hose do I need when bleeding the brakes? I need to buy a hose for bleeding and don't know what size to get. Too big and it won't stay on and could possibly allow bubbles into the lines. Too small, and it won't fit at all.

Just a heads up. I won't be using the one man brake bleeder kit featured here. My dad is going to help with this project, and he made a good point about spending ~$40 for a kit that I will only use once every 5 years or so.

Thanks all for the help.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Well, your best bet is to buy a gallon of surplus for $30. That bit about $40 for a one time use, well I guess you don't own any torque wrenches, huh?

 

[Recovry4x4]

You will find that owning a deuce will bring out more brake bleeding than you think. Bleeding with a pressure bleeder is more thorough than the old pump method. If cost is a huge consideration the don't buy any hose and save the money, the hose is not required for 2 man bleeding. When I do a flush and bleed I use around a quart but thats probably a little more than necessary. Brakes are a nice thing so I take the extra measure with them. I buy gallons of BFS surplus as Gimpyrobb says, makes much sense.

 

[Jinx]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I was under the impression the hose was needed to block air from getting back into the system. At least that's the impression i got from the TM which tells you to submerse the other end of the tube into the fluid. Now that I think about it, this is probably done to see air bubbles coming out of the system.

Gimpy Robb, I do own torque wrenches and use them more than I expected.

 

[dabtl]

Where can we get DOT 5 brake fluid?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Just about any surplus dealer has it. Rivrad, Murrays, Spruce Mountain etc. Might also try EBay. There is a guy there that has 1000 gallons and starts his auctions at all different prices. I got 6 gallons from him some time back at $10 a gallon and $10 for the ride. So 6 gallons cost me $120 which was a great price!

 

[DUG]

Premium Genuine Issue U.S. Military Surplus. Including, United States Army, U.S. Navy and U.S.M.C. New Old Stock, Current Issue And Also Some Used.

Tell them you want "Dog Head Approved" brake fluid. $30 a gallon plus shipping. Very good service, extremly well packed for shipment.

 

[hndrsonj]

Well I will say this, I will never bleed deuce brakes again without a bleeder. It is simpler, saves fluid, and alot faster. If I had to spend 40$ for any tool the bleeder would be it. As for not using it much, all you have to do is make an adapter for the master cylinder cover and it can be used for any vehicle.

 

[Warthog]

I spent less that $20 making my own. Best Jefferson I ever spent.

 

[Jinx]

Speaking of the master cylinder cap and using a pressure bleeder, I've seen photos here where the bleeder is connected to the top of the master cylinder cap. I don't recall seeing any connection on the top of the cap on my truck. I do have a breather line attached to the side of the cap however. Is this where I would attach the pressure bleeder?

 

[hndrsonj]

Yes it attaches where the vent line goes. I just have a spare cap I keep with my bleeder.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'm glad you saw the humor in my post! Yes you can save some money not building a pressure bleeder, but it is SO worth it. If you like you can use the old push on the peddle method, but (and I say this to help) do yourself a favor and look into building one. If you are ever anywhere and have brake trouble, you can fix them yourself(no help needed) and be on your way again. It is that valuable.

 

[area52]

I know I will catch flak for this but it has been posted on here before by persons much more knowledgeable than me, IT IS OK TO MIX DOT3 AND DOT 5!! it won't blow up or turn to acid and eat the brake lines.

I believe both Cranetruck(Bjorn) and David Doyle have stated this and have documentation to prove it.

 

[Jinx]

I'm sure it's possible, but I doubt it mixes very well. Seems like the DOT 5 would stay on top and the DOT 3 would sink to the bottom.

 

[hndrsonj]

I think what has been stated is that you can completely drain the DOT 5 and replace with DOT 3 but can not mix them.

 

[area52]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/early-deuce/8011-brake-fluid.html

 

[CGarbee]

To quote a bit from the last paragraph of the article that David wrote that is posted in the refrenced thread:

"Silicone brake fluid is completely compatible with elastomer materials used in conventional brake systems. Although it does not mix with conventional-type brake fluids, it is completely compatible with glycol brake fluids as a 2-phase mixture. In other words, an accidental mixing of the two fluids will not cause mutual precipitation or leaching of additives in this type of environment."

I'm not sure that I want the fluids in any of the systems of my rigs to be a multi-phase mixture... It opens the door for some oddities of performance... Since the DOT 3/4/5.1 is much less expensive in my area then DOT 5 (BFS), I try to use the DOT 3/4 in stuff that has it, the DOT 5 in its rigs, and never mix...