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"Another" Gen 1 Alternator Light Thread

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Geographical Center of Virginia
Before posting, I have read multiple threads on here about others with a similar issue and consulted the TMs.

My Gen 1 dash light will not come on. I have a 1985 M1009

Here is what I have done:
-Cleaned the heater fuse connection and put in a new 20 amp fuse (4x4 light, low oil light, and heater are working)
-Cleaned the connections for both positive and negative on the alternator and on the engine block (cleaned almost every connection I have found in this blazer)
-Tested continuity for the ground on the alternator
-Cleaned the bulb terminals for Gen 1 where it connects to the circuit film, inside of the bulb, and the circuit film itself around the bulb socket. I also tried a different bulb and bulb connector from my other parts m1009.
-Tested voltage on exciter, 12v on little red all the time, 12v on brown with key on.
-Had the alternator tested at an auto parts store

This is a restoration project of mine and it did not have any alternators in it when purchased so they are both new isolated ground alternators. My batteries are good, Interstate 6TL that are less than 6 months old. Gen 2 light works.

The only two other things I know to do is to clean the ENTIRE circuit film and also see if I am getting 12v on the big red wire (should be hot all the time, right?). Is it possible to see if I am getting 12v on the circuit film with a multimeter?

I have also read that some people have solved this problem by running another ground to the alternator that is not connected at the water crossover pipe (which I just put a new one on because someone used loc tite on the bolts for the thermostat).

On a side note, where can I get a spacer sleeve for the lower passenger side alternator bolt? I currently have it shimmed out with other things but would like to have the factory spacer sleeve because the belt squeals for a couple seconds when cold.
 

Matt5

Banned
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3
0
Location
NY
So for all we know, the alt is bad... lol... also you should not need any shims so, this tells you right off the bat something is wrong anyway.
 

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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391
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Location
Geographical Center of Virginia
So for all we know, the alt is bad... lol... also you should not need any shims so, this tells you right off the bat something is wrong anyway.
There is supposed to be a spacer sleeve for the passenger side alternator lower bolt. I do not have one, never did. I had to make my own with shims.

How do we know the alternator is bad? The tester at the auto parts store they put the alternator in said it functions fine.
 

acthomp781

Member
79
30
18
Location
Massillon, OH
I had the same issue. The ground wire for Gen 1 was bad. I looked closely at the ends at the connectors and noticed "green stuff" where the wire strands were crimped in the connector. So I assumed this corrosion had gotten farther into the wire. I replaced with, if I remember right, an 8 gauge wire and crimped in new connectors. This may be your issue. I also had issues with Gen light and the printed circuit board for the instrument cluster was bad. Just some thoughts.
 

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
300
391
63
Location
Geographical Center of Virginia
Turns out BOTH of my gen 1 light bulbs I had were bad from the parts blazer and the one I'm restoring. Popped in the Gen 2 bulb from the parts blazer and the light came on. Now I get to move on to the glow plug system.
 

90Jimmy

Member
236
5
18
Location
Southern Illinois
Turns out BOTH of my gen 1 light bulbs I had were bad from the parts blazer and the one I'm restoring. Popped in the Gen 2 bulb from the parts blazer and the light came on. Now I get to move on to the glow plug system.
Gen 2 bulb is not the same as Gen 1.....Might be worth getting the correct light for the Gen1 socket and putting the Gen2 bulb back in the Gen2 spot. I don’t know why, or if it matters but the Gen2 bulb is different than all the others......or don’t
 
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