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Another LMTV No start thread M1078

expeditionnw

Member
174
1
18
Location
Alaska
Made some headway!

I discovered two of my batteries wont hold a charge. Swapped them out and now the truck will crank from cab. Still wont fire the fuel solinoid. Even tried feeding 24v power to the circuit at the inhibit switch, no dice.


Will, i swapped the keypad. With the good one installed, i can access diagnostics no problem. Obviously the keypad was faulty! So, in diag mode, i get a number, a dash, then a "d" on screen. By pressing mode, the numbers count up 1-7. in what i assume there is a potential code in every gear?

with thos pad, i can also select drive and reverse. When R is selected, it flashes. When D is selected, "7" flashes.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Did you put a multimeter on the fuel solenoid contacts with the dash switch on? Outer terminal is positive. Go from the outer terminal to chassis to see if it's a bad ground. Fuel solenoid comes on with 24v power relay. Could be on a breaker though. To access codes the trans control needs to be in N. Then you hold the arrow up and arrow down buttons at the same times for a few seconds. Until the fluid level is right I wouldn't try to put it int gear.
 

expeditionnw

Member
174
1
18
Location
Alaska
Well I am an idiot.

Turns out that the inhibit switch kills fuel pump power by completing the circuit, not disconnecting. Didnt see that in the TM! The switch applies power to the start inhibit relay.

On a whim, i put the non functioning wtec3 controller back in. I discovered that if i really mash the buttons, i can get it to function. So apparently it is worn out, and I need more beef in my diet.

At this point, the truck appears to start, run, and cycle thru its gears.

will be interesting to see what other issues this truck has!
thanks for all your assistance guys. if anyone knows a source for a new keypad im all ears.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,861
696
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I stopped buying used ones they are all take outs like yours with worn keys. If all else is good on yours sometimes you can get a rebuild kit for the keys. There are a few different part numbers that are all wtec3 keypads. As long as they look the same and the connector is the same they all seem to be compatible.
 
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