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Another M1010 owner

chevymike

chevymike

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Yeah, I had to mine weighed to get it titled in CA. Mine scaled out, half tank fuel, stock wheels (which are heavy!) and the box setup like yours at 6480 lbs. :)
 
Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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chevymike said:
Yeah, I had to mine weighed to get it titled in CA. Mine scaled out, half tank fuel, stock wheels (which are heavy!) and the box setup like yours at 6480 lbs. :)
Click to expand...
Yes the wheels are heavy... my H2's with 295/70/17 were a couple pounds lighter than the oem's. At least now I have a starting point and can keep track as I install stuff back in. It adds up quickly...
 
chevymike

chevymike

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Mad Texan said:
Yes the wheels are heavy... my H2's with 295/70/17 were a couple pounds lighter than the oem's. At least now I have a starting point and can keep track as I install stuff back in. It adds up quickly...
Click to expand...
Yeah, I agree that it is good to know. Nice thing is we have a GVW of 9450 lbs so we have a lot of room left. When I had my Dodge Ram with Cummins diesel and the Four Wheel Camper popup, I scaled in about 8400 lbs. with a max GVW of 8800 lbs. Since the "camper" is already part of the M1010 at the scaled weight, I am figuring about a 1000 lbs. max with additional build out. Still puts me way under what my Ram setup weighed, which I am happy about. :)
 
Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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Intake vent for the heater is reinstalled in its new location. I turned it to keep it low enough for a bench on that side of the interior. No pics of the fab of the old duct into the new version due to scratching of head to make the right cuts to make it work. :roll: But I’m happy with how it turned out! The hole cutting ceremony was a test in patience on this one but I got it done!!! The white is clear exterior caulk that hasn't cured.
 

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Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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The remnants of duct work modifications. Then took the time to cover up my work and made it match the walls. I also spent some time with the fuse panel in the back. The wires on the walls have not had power no matter what I tried, the GPFU switch in the dash made the relays click but nothing. The wiring diagram says they should be pink! My eyes say they are red. I first pulled the plugs to check for power, got both 12v and 24v, relay clicks but nothing on the outlet side. I finally pulled a relay off the wall to look closely at it. I found the prong that should feed the outlet side of the plug was bent so it wouldn't go into the plug. Accidentally? On purpose? I don't know but I have power to all those wires now. That gives a total of 6 usable circuits in the box with two wires feeding the other side. Picked up a 200 amp circuit breaker to replace the 60 amp one on the Anderson plug. I'm going to put that to use... :cool:
 

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joshuak

joshuak

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Box is looking great, solid progress. [thumbzup]

About the electrical schematic, I'm not saying it's right, but I'd put a fuse between to the 24v feed and the relay.

And have you considered a battery isolator to not deplete chassis batts by "house" use and ensure preference when charging? or do you have something different in mind?






Edit: Should have asked how you were going to control the relay. Because if it will be controlled by the ignition, that in itself is the isolator...
anyway back to lurking. Keep up the good work!
 
Last edited:
Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Chester County, PA
joshuak said:
Box is looking great, solid progress. [thumbzup]
About the electrical schematic, I'm not saying it's right, but I'd put a fuse between to the 24v feed and the relay.
And have you considered a battery isolator to not deplete chassis batts by "house" use and ensure preference when charging? or do you have something different in mind?
Edit: Should have asked how you were going to control the relay. Because if it will be controlled by the ignition, that in itself is the isolator...
anyway back to lurking. Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...
I knew a fuse would come up there... Chevy and the military didn't put anything there but it could be considered. In theory everything downstream is fused or on a circuit breaker... seems like that should cover it. The relay would be the isolator... either controlled by ignition or voltage. It might be the first electronic thing that I install on the old dinosaur but still shopping them.
 
Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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Well, I tried again with the heater in the back. Pump works, cleaned out the valve, bled to the valve, igniter gets hot... She huffed and puffed gray smoke but no joy. Final try she peed herself - flooded. I think for nostalgia sake I wanted to get it working but the specs don't fall in line for how I want to use it. So removal has started, I'll be removing the pump and the lines as well. Found at one time there were many inhabitants in the box once the heater was out of the way. Does anyone know the size of the plug for the T in the fuel line? I think I have it figured out... but.
 

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Mad Texan

Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
I have continued the removal process... all but the one fuel line along the frame is out. I'll have to lower the tank on the passenger side to get it, but since I'll be using the third line off the sending for the new heater I'm waiting. I had a plug that fit the T-fitting. Bled the air out at the filter and she fired right up! :)
 

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