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Another newbie with MEP002A questions - gauges and oil pressure

Hectorsosa

Member
52
13
8
Location
Vassar MI
ok so here's an update on my 002 - had a chance to tinker over the last few days. I pulled the tank and cleaned it. Not perfect, but I can see metal instead of rust on most surfaces. Fuel pump filters cleaned, oil changed, diesel kleen and killem biocide added to fuel. I don't know what the gunk was in the bottom of the tank, but if it was algae it's dead now. Unit runs better than it did a few weeks ago, but I have a couple more questions.

Cartridge filter cans - how the heck do you get them off? I drained the cans one at a time and tried to pull them off to check the filters, but I can't get them off. Several firm whacks with a rubber mallet didn't help. I took the nut off the strainer and the drain valves off the other two - none of them came off. Whack 'em harder, or is there a different trick to it?

Output box wiring - I pulled out a couple wires and chased all 12 leads - I DO NOT - I repeat - I DO NOT have enough wire to run ANY of the leads 4 more times thru CT1/CVT1. I'm going to have to make up some new leads, so here's my question - between this forum and smokstak I've read instances of 5k boxes having 3 leads wrapped 8 times, 6 leads wrapped 4 times, 5 leads with 4 wrapped 4 times and one wrapped 8, and TM shows 6 wires wrapped (all twice for 10k) but the wires it shows doesn't correspond with the numbering on my wires. So.... looking for someone with a known good 5k box that can tell me what the **** I need to change to make the wiring "proper." If nobody can give me a definitive answer I'm going to do keep the same three leads that are wrapped now and just make them longer. Crossing my fingers. What it all boils down to is current needs to flow 8 times thru each hole, and as long as neutral isn't selected as one of the leads it doesn't really matter which ones I grab. Somebody PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,437
556
113
Location
Ripley/TN
The strainer (first canister after the pumps) is only held on with the 1/2 nut on the bottom. The other 2 filters are held by a 5/8 nut on top of the canisters, look on top of the frame where they are mounted.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,784
24,129
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
There are copper washers that you need to not damage or lose, under the domed nut, and the two bolts that hold the filter canisters.
 

Hectorsosa

Member
52
13
8
Location
Vassar MI
Finally had a chance to go thru and figure out exactly what was going on in the output box. I owe an apology to you guys - there was indeed two leads in each hole. That said, I also verified without a doubt that there wasn't enough wire to do 8 wraps thru each hole. I added almost 11 feet of wire to the box extending all six leads and life is good. R3 still not set, but a quick test run with almost 4000 watts on the set showed about 75% on the meter, so at least it's reading close now. So.. between what I've read here and what I've gathered from the previous owner here's where I'm at:

completed:
rewire for 5k output
oil changed
fuel pump filters cleaned
fuel tank cleaned & biocide added - tank not perfect, but I'm happy with it
oil pressure gauge replaced
fuel filters & air filter inspected - look ok for now
sorta kinda wired in to barn so it can be used in power outage

still need to do:
reset R3
replace fuel filters
install manual transfer switch
adjust voltage & hz meters to read right, or figure out what's wrong with circuit
steal electric heaters from work long enough to give it a solid load test

Any other suggestions? Am I forgetting anything important?

20170407_231125.jpg
 

GREENMV

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
325
6
0
Location
Linden, TN
#22 Post. Look's good, glad you were able to "get er done" with the extra wire. Something that I always do is spend some time snugging (ALL) electrical wire connectors, it's worth the peace of mind. You wont believe how many I have found loose over the years. I found some loose the other day on TB1 underneath the Large wire lugs coming off of CB1. Another thing I do is pull the fan shroud off and check the DCVR & Fuse holder for corroded wires, they are in the air stream and can get moisture on them. also check the glow plugs wiring for the same reason. while you have the shroud off, clean and lube governor linkage and blow out the oil cooler with shop air, you would be amazed on what I have blown out of those things. (note: 3 bolts are on the bottom of the shroud and I usually just leave them off for future removal, your choice) Last thing I can think of at this time Is lube the louvers linkage by the exhaust and blue block the 4 bolts that hold the lovers, they have a tendency to vibrate out. While your there check the wiring on the temp sensor for corrosion also. "any of these electrical terminals that are in the airstream I just clean and put a little dielectric grease on them for protection from the elements. Reminder Fram oil & fuel filters have all the gaskets.
 

Hectorsosa

Member
52
13
8
Location
Vassar MI
Ahab - I guess it depends on whether or not I remember to flip all the right switches.

Currently no provision to stop generator from going live without first eliminating mains power. Transfer switch is going to be a purchase in the VERY near future
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Reminder Fram oil & fuel filters have all the gaskets.
I would advise looking at the Fram filters before purchase if you are picking them up at an auto parts store. The last ones I purchased for my MEP003A had the following problems.
1. Oil filter cartridge partially crushed
2. First fuel filter gasket severely crimped
3. Second fuel filter partially crushed

In all three cases, the boxes were in perfect condition.
 

GREENMV

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
325
6
0
Location
Linden, TN
Correction, #47 post. Blue lock tight not blue block. "Brain Fart" Different stuff. I usually get my filters from Rock Auto and they all have been ok so far.
 
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