Another way to lower an M1101/M1102

[ECS]

I'm about to lower my M1101 the 2.5" using the square tube, and do the hub swap like TexasTT did back on page 3.

With the hub swap it will be using electric brakes and the same wheels as my Land Cruiser.

What should I do about the surge brake setup and parts?

 

[maineoffroad]

I'm about to lower my M1101 the 2.5" using the square tube, and do the hub swap like TexasTT did back on page 3.

With the hub swap it will be using electric brakes and the same wheels as my Land Cruiser.

What should I do about the surge brake setup and parts?

Hey there just delete you wont need them with electric

 

[ECS]

Hey there just delete you wont need them with electric

Thanks,

I am wondering how to hold the pindel so it doesn't slide in and out as it did with the surge brakes.

If I just delete the parts it's going to clank back and forth unless It is bolted in place somehow, what have others done for that?

 

[maineoffroad]

Thanks,

I am wondering how to hold the pindel so it doesn't slide in and out as it did with the surge brakes.

If I just delete the parts it's going to clank back and forth unless It is bolted in place somehow, what have others done for that?

Well not sure what others have done. I kept the surge brakes. you could weld a tab on each side where the lunette ring slides in .those hitches are not quiet some have changed to a ball hitch

 

[ECS]

Thanks. Tabs I can do. I'm staying with the pintle for the articulation.

 

[maineoffroad]

Thanks. Tabs I can do. I'm staying with the pintle for the articulation.

yeah my thoughts too thanks take care

 

[1stDeuce]

After towing my trailers with pintle hitches, vs the trailers I have with ball hitches, I'll take the pintle every time. I only notice any "clunking" from the hitch on the tightest turns when backing, or when the trailer is totally empty going over rougher terrain, and even then, it's not bad. My guess is that the backing noise is because we're using a 3" ring with a civvy pintle that was designed for a 2.5" ring... The military pintles are sized for the 3" ring, and in my experience, clunk less and don't bind a bit when backing like the civvy pintle does.

I can also get a pintle trailer hooked up easily with no rear camera, I just get it close, and correct a bit if I see the front of the trailer move to one side or the other as it makes contact. Once I get contact where the trailer doesn't kick to the side, I'm close enough to drop the ring on after the truck rolls ahead a bit when I put it in park. Only get out of the truck one time, vs. the normal several times when hooking up a ball hitch.

These trailers are great, and though I have three, and recognize that I really don't need that many, I can't bring myself to sell one because they just keep coming in handy. Currently using my covered trailer to store firewood...

And FWIW, I looked back and see someone did a 5" drop, which I like. Would have to chop the foot off the bottom of the jack at that point, but it would lower the trailer nicely. I honestly see no problem with only bolting the axle on the sides... Or, if you wanted, you could just weld it to the bottom of the frame, which I believe is steel, not aluminum. That is commonly done on RV's and other commercial trailers...

Finally, there was some question about the axle rating. I can confirm that the axles on my M1101 and my M1102 are tagged for 4300lbs. As someone pointed out, the trailers are identical, the weight rating difference was to determine which tow vehicle you were allowed to use. And a military trailer rated for 4300lbs offroad will handle a LOT more weight on road. Until the later 90's, the military typically set off road ratings at half the on road rating, or rather, doubled the off road rating for on road use. Not that I'd want to put 8000lbs in a M1100 series trailer...

 

[maineoffroad]

After towing my trailers with pintle hitches, vs the trailers I have with ball hitches, I'll take the pintle every time. I only notice any "clunking" from the hitch on the tightest turns when backing, or when the trailer is totally empty going over rougher terrain, and even then, it's not bad. My guess is that the backing noise is because we're using a 3" ring with a civvy pintle that was designed for a 2.5" ring... The military pintles are sized for the 3" ring, and in my experience, clunk less and don't bind a bit when backing like the civvy pintle does.

I can also get a pintle trailer hooked up easily with no rear camera, I just get it close, and correct a bit if I see the front of the trailer move to one side or the other as it makes contact. Once I get contact where the trailer doesn't kick to the side, I'm close enough to drop the ring on after the truck rolls ahead a bit when I put it in park. Only get out of the truck one time, vs. the normal several times when hooking up a ball hitch.

These trailers are great, and though I have three, and recognize that I really don't need that many, I can't bring myself to sell one because they just keep coming in handy. Currently using my covered trailer to store firewood...

And FWIW, I looked back and see someone did a 5" drop, which I like. Would have to chop the foot off the bottom of the jack at that point, but it would lower the trailer nicely. I honestly see no problem with only bolting the axle on the sides... Or, if you wanted, you could just weld it to the bottom of the frame, which I believe is steel, not aluminum. That is commonly done on RV's and other commercial trailers...

Finally, there was some question about the axle rating. I can confirm that the axles on my M1101 and my M1102 are tagged for 4300lbs. As someone pointed out, the trailers are identical, the weight rating difference was to determine which tow vehicle you were allowed to use. And a military trailer rated for 4300lbs offroad will handle a LOT more weight on road. Until the later 90's, the military typically set off road ratings at half the on road rating, or rather, doubled the off road rating for on road use. Not that I'd want to put 8000lbs in a M1100 series trailer...

Hello there yeah i agree with the pintle statement. I did a 3in drop the only thing to deal with is the shock which really isn't much. I built an offroad camper on mine and these trailers will go anywhere . I wish i had three of these living in the northeast they are not easy to come by, cant believe i found the one i did.

 

[ChemicalSFC]

I am in the process of lowering my M1101 by 5" and need to remove the small bracket that holds the brake line above the axle. It is held in place by 2 huck bolts. The brake line is directly between the 2 huck bolts, which means I cannot get a side grinder with cutoff wheel in place. Also, due to mounting location, I cannot access the backside of the hack bolts. What method have others used to remove this bracket? Drill, air chisel??

 

[Overdrive]

ChemicalSFC,
I have lowered three 1102 trailers with this method and about to do a fourth.

I just used a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel VERY carefully to grind off the bolts to remove the brake line brackets. Its awkward but i did it. Then used a 16d nail and a hammer to knock them out completely. It has worked for me every time. When i do the next one i will take pics of how i hold the cutoff wheel.

OD

 

[Overdrive]

I know this is a late reply but I just bought an M1102 and I want to consider this mod.

Q: The vertical sheet that the ends if the axle pass through (see pic #3), does all the material need to be removed?
It would be easier if only the axle slot needs to be cut out (and holes drilled).

Q: Without a plasma cutter, what is the best way to cut through that thick aluminum?

I used a cheap jigsaw with metal blade and WD40 to make an arch cut and it worked great. Have done 3 trailers this way. The aluminum on the big vertical brace that the axle and shock are mounted to is low grade aluminum (3003?) not 6061.

OD

 

[ECS]

I used this thread to lower mine over the weekend. I also did a hub/brake swap.



View attachment 627052

I doing a hub swap and used the eTrailer electric Brakes with manual parking brake.

BUT it looks like I am missing some parts to attach the manual brake cable to the back of the Dexter 2" x 12" brake syste.

Does any one know what parts I need to attach the M1101 bake cable to the back of the Dexter brake system?

This is the eTrailer part I have

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=+Dexter+Electric+Trailer+Brake+Assembly+with+Parking+Brake+-+12%22+-+Left+Hand+-+6,000+lbs+-+23-112

This is a picture of the back of Dexter Brake. you can see the lever it needs to attach to the M1101 cable.

 

[ECS]

I think I need some parts that look similar to this?

Does any know where I would get them?

 

[Csm Davis]

Profo might want to look at this.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[ECS]

I found the cables for the dexter 12" x 2" drums ... there was a thread on Expedition Vehicles and those guys were converting them into expedition campers.
Got the cables from thepartshouseinc.com the make the dexter cables.
Just FYI

 

[Overdrive]

Just lowered another 1102 with this method. Pics of the cutout using a cheap jigsaw and a metal cutting blade. Worked great just have to move slowly when cutting.

Used little squirts of WD40 on the blade about every 30 seconds of cutting. 4th trailer i have used this method on. Can't emphasize enough that you must move slowly especially when doing the curves. Takes about 10 minutes to do a side.

On this trailer I moved the axle back 1/4”.

NOTE: you can see in the first pic there are two sets of cut marks for the top and angles. The top mark was the original point to enlarge the opening 2-1/2". However before i started cutting i remembered my lesson learned from lowering the other trailers. With the 2-1/2" spacer in place if you cut the opening using the 2-1/2" from stock guide you will see the spacer poking out by around 1/4". Not a biggie but i figured why not keep as much material as possible so i reduced the cutout measurement by 1/4" and it works great.

Also note the little notch i cut out on the lower right to allow for shock travel. Not sure if necessary but looking at the shock when its all put back together there isn't much room for travel.

 

[maineoffroad]

hello there why did you move the axle back

 

[Mainsail]

Keep the pictures coming!

 

[Overdrive]

mainoffroad,
For this project the M1102 is a derivative trailer (secret project?) and the way it came the tire/axle sat fairly far forward of center in the wheel well. So i moved it back slightly. I have a plan for the shocks but i have parts soaking in rust remover before i mess with shock mounting. On the other 3 trailers i followed the original lowering guide and moved them forward 1/2 an inch.
OD

 

[ChemicalSFC]

Your cutout using the jigsaw looks great; much neater than the cutout on my M1101 made with a grinder and cutoff wheel.

Why are you keeping the shocks? I removed mine and have noticed no difference in towing or trailer suspension action.