• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Antbody consider an 1101 bed for a bobbed deuce?

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Anybody consider an 1101 bed for a bobbed deuce?

I am bobbing a deuce I just bought and am weighing my options for the bed I have an 1101 sitting here in the drive and was measuring it up for an option. The trailer is a completely rivited together unit making fabrication and modification pretty easy (no welding). I dont plan on sideracks or a cargo cover being used so the width would be more useful for carrying things in the back not to mention the all aluminum construction being a plus for weight and rust resistance. I think the trailer could have the front panel removed and the sides moved in a bit to give it a better balanced look coming off the cab diminishing the boxy look then riviting the front panel back on. There is room in the fender well for tapering the fenderwells to balance the rear with the front fender style I measured the length and its a foot and a half shorter than the 105 bed but it has all the clearance lights and tail lights integrated into the body of the trailer which means a step bumper could be used in the rear instead of the standard bumperettes just looking for some input good or bad kicking around options before I get down to cutting the frame to length.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

197thhhc

Active member
1,067
15
38
Location
Williamsburg, OHIO
With the bed being a foot and a half shorter. I would consider cutting the normal 3 feet off the frame or 3 1/2 max and leave a 1 to 1 1/2 foot gap between the cab and bed. That would be the perfect place to mount a spare and a jerry can on each side.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
15,629
2,054
113
Location
Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
If your intent is style verses pacticality I would say you have a good idea.....with that short bed you are going to be limited to what you can carry. Since that bed is light owing to the aluminum construction I think a tilt bed would be in order. Those trailers are wide so you could have super singles or dual 1100x20's without them sticking out from under the bed.

The gap between the bed and cab would allow for a set of stacks, tool box, spare tire rack and crane or other cool options.

It's your dog and you can whip it if you want to.
 

russ132

Member
149
2
18
Location
Kelleys Island OH
I have a m105 on my bobbed deuce. I think that the gap between the cab and the bed is a great idea. A couple of tool boxs and spare storage would be awful nice. Perhaps you could pick up one of those five ton spare carriers.
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
I just did some measuring the wheel well on the 1101 will end up pretty much at the same spot it ends up useing a 105 the wheel well being set further back on the 1101. I measured the deuce springs and the hangar on the rear will just have enough frame to fit if I cut the frame flush to install a step bumper. I have made a template for the fenders the angle will be set once the box is on the frame and the correct radius between where the angle sides meet the top and with the 395s on the truck to be able to give the truck the (right) look I can finish off the bottoms with 1 inch aluminum angle for strength and asthetics. I dont think its going to be a big project to move the sides in just forward of the wheel well to narrow the front a bit just so the bed doesnt look like a box sitting on the frame (even though thats just what it is) but Im pretty sure Im going to go this route with the bob job. Now I have to design the way Im going to work the rear fender to take the squareness out of it to match the front.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

goodguyzy

Active member
1,337
13
38
Location
medford oregon
I did consider using one on my duramax 3500 to make a clone vehicle, until the wife found out and threw a fit. Plan was to replace the bed to give it a more "military" look and the usual bumpers, paint.......
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Got the floor herculined and the springer bases cut down and angle welded in to bolt in the new freightliner highbacks a friend gave me. The seat bases will get a coat of OD if the damp cold weather ever finally goes away. Im planning on useing springer bases for both seats likeI did in my 813 NOS data plates are sitting here waiting for installation after the whole interior gets new paint. Sunday the doors got all new feltwindow tracks installed nice no more windows flopping around while driving as well as the door wiper rubber along the sills new door gaskets to follow after they arrive. I got a deal on a like new hardtop so that got installed and the seams all caulked against leaks last weekend as well Pretty much in the parts gathering stage I just bought a nice set of michelin 395 XLs and a great set of rims courtesy of young gun and Im going to rework the fuel system an go with all spin on filters picked up a mint A3 tank (aluminum) no more rust problems and just the same as the A2 tank . The primary filter water seperator is a racor unit I have a lifetime supply of filters courtesy of GL and the secondary system will go right where the old was all lines to be plumbed in with JIC fittings and braided line now to get it all assembled before haspin.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

ARYankee

Well-known member
1,983
33
48
Location
Benton, AR
I would like to know more about the felt window tracks. Could you post some pictures of that and possibly how the install went?
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
I would like to know more about the felt window tracks. Could you post some pictures of that and possibly how the install went?
Window tracks are an easy install they are felt lined steel channels front one has a hook on the bottom that slides over a slot in the door frame top has a rivet holding it you can see it at the top once the door is opened. The back or latch side has the hook on top and a screw at the base holding it in. You have to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the door and take the window out to install these I thrrew all but this rear one away when these wear like this there is nothing to keep your windows from flopping around when in the up position. I always redo these on a truck after I buy it easy fix and they can be bought at either memphis equipment or saturn surplus I have bought them from both places.
 

Attachments

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Oh ok. Thank you. Do they help keep water out of the door? I have issues with water in my doors.
I dont think your going to keep all of the water out but there is a piece called the window wiper seal it runs along the window on the outside in the window opening (where your elbow rests while driving) it should be replaced when doing the channels. I replaced all of mine its a real PITA to get the window back in after installing this you have to grease up a long thin peice of metal and slide the seal up over the bottom of the window frame without tearing it to slide the window into the door past it if your door is holding water the weep holes on the bottom side are probably clogged and need to be cleaned out. I always get a can of rubberized undercoat and after the window is put back in and rolled up spray the bottom inside of the doors before replacing the inspection plate.
 
Last edited:

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
Subscribed. I definitely want to see how this bed comes out. Please keep us posted with pics of the final product. Thanks.
 

jcappeljr

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
2,868
27
48
Location
Delta, PA.
I am looking forward to seeing it when you get it finished Kevin.You do good work I am sure it will look good.John
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
I am looking forward to seeing it when you get it finished Kevin.You do good work I am sure it will look good.John
Thanks John I wasnt going to do anymore bobbers guess I will never smarten up but the truck was a great deal and I want to have a daily driver I can use WMO in so this fit the bill. Im probably going to sell off the tires, rims and undercarriage to defray the cost of the trailer there is a bunch of them with tops and bows a few hours from me so I will probably buy another to do the job.
 
Using an aluminum bed for the weight factor sounds good in theory, but if you don't have enough weight on the rear wheels, traction could be an issue. I pulled the bed off a 69 Chevy Pickup once to redo the wood floor and took the truck to the store to get some sodas and ice for my cooler while I was working. It was difficult at best to keep from spinning the rear tires. Compared to the weight of a stock bed, or an M105 bed for a bobber, the aluminum bed might be a little too light if you're on a slick road due to ice, snow, or rain. In off road conditions, mud or gravel could be a real pain in the Rockwells! :driver:
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks