ANY INFORMATION ON INSTALLING SERIES 18 WINCH IN A 1165a1

[Retiredwarhorses]

On a side note, where are all the winches going that were on the auction trucks? The lot of trucks I bought from last month, of which there were 80 for sale, I only remember a handful having winches still installed. Anybody know where they are at lol?

most trucks don’t have winches in the military, only a fraction do.Perhaps your confused by the front plate? It’s actually referred to in the TM as “Bumper” not winch plate.

 

[Mogman]

If it is only 1/4" difference just hang on to your winch and try it and then if it does not fit trade it off. probably a long time before you will see the HMMWV anyway.

 

[TLambert]

I recently purchased a Series 18 from a gentleman in MD. He bought several and was selling them. If you look at Federal Military Part, they have kits to install a 2" receiver to non winch bumper. then you have a winch plate to mount and install on front (or rear) of HMMWV. I want this set up to go back and forth between M998 and M35. I am trying to determine the remote. the pin configuration and connector requires a corded remote that is approximately $350~400 for the 33' version. I am debating adding wireless, but wonder why they use 16AWG and conductor for the remote.

 

[D Foster]

You may have purchased your series 18 winch from the same person as I ? Before realizing it would not fit between my frame member I had purchased a 12' wired remote . I now have it for sale on Craig's List. I plan on installing the smaller 12 series on my Humvee. My series 18 has a small sender wire attached for use with the wireless remote if desired.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I recently purchased a Series 18 from a gentleman in MD. He bought several and was selling them. If you look at Federal Military Part, they have kits to install a 2" receiver to non winch bumper. then you have a winch plate to mount and install on front (or rear) of HMMWV. I want this set up to go back and forth between M998 and M35. I am trying to determine the remote. the pin configuration and connector requires a corded remote that is approximately $350~400 for the 33' version. I am debating adding wireless, but wonder why they use 16AWG and conductor for the remote.

Why... Cuz, it's a remote control. It controls a simple relay circuit (solenoids) that controls the high current needs to run the motor.

You will need large gauge wire, welding type from the batteries to both locations. or a long one to flip between front / rear. and a positive and negative, so plan on a few bucks there $$$$. Nice to have a quick disconnect for this power so there's some more $$$. Anderson style QC connectors like on a electric fork lift. That hand held controller is way over priced IMO. Wireless IMO is a bad idea too. To much technology to run a winch and what "if's"... what if the remote battery is dead, if the receiver is jack or jammed.

And hope the FMP receiver thingie holds up to the riggers of winching service.

Snatch block or two, and pull. NO batteries required, CAMO

 

[D Foster]

Why... Cuz, it's a remote control. It controls a simple relay circuit (solenoids) that controls the high current needs to run the motor.

You will need large gauge wire, welding type from the batteries to both locations. or a long one to flip between front / rear. and a positive and negative, so plan on a few bucks there $$$$. Nice to have a quick disconnect for this power so there's some more $$$. Anderson style QC connectors like on a electric fork lift. That hand held controller is way over priced IMO. Wireless IMO is a bad idea too. To much technology to run a winch and what "if's"... what if the remote battery is dead, if the receiver is jack or jammed.

And hope the FMP receiver thingie holds up to the riggers of winching service.

Snatch block or two, and pull. NO batteries required, CAMO

When I purchased mind he demonstrated by have the winch hooked up with large cables to 24 batteries. He only used the wired 12' remote. The wired remotes are overpriced, I agree. My winch did come with large 2 cables to hook to battery.

 

[TLambert]

He mentioned a person from NJ and also Atlanta coming to purchase. I have planned an external set up and one that could also be used on heaver M35A3. The 12' winch is also an option. I am interested to hear about the sender wire. The unit I have is painted over, so wires and labels difficult. But there are six wires from contactor to a module behind.
Ultimately i am trying to determine whether i buy the 85394 (33') or the 77671 (12') . i can also go the 88527/88528 route and and a new Amphenol connector to match. the Plastic and Metal connectors have a different pin pattern.
Or do i go wireless?

 

[TLambert]

Why... Cuz, it's a remote control. It controls a simple relay circuit (solenoids) that controls the high current needs to run the motor.

You will need large gauge wire, welding type from the batteries to both locations. or a long one to flip between front / rear. and a positive and negative, so plan on a few bucks there $$$$. Nice to have a quick disconnect for this power so there's some more $$$. Anderson style QC connectors like on a electric fork lift. That hand held controller is way over priced IMO. Wireless IMO is a bad idea too. To much technology to run a winch and what "if's"... what if the remote battery is dead, if the receiver is jack or jammed.

And hope the FMP receiver thingie holds up to the riggers of winching service.

Snatch block or two, and pull. NO batteries required, CAMO

Planning on 2AWG from battery to front quick connect. Depending on wire routing, maybe 0AWG to the rear.
I just don't know why they use 16AWG to the remote since current is low and voltage drop likely not significant enough to cause issue.
I do agree with durability and reliability, a lot to go wrong with remote, transmitter/receiver module and batteries. Leaning corded

the FMP unit looks durable for the M998 weight. debating on the M35 if it will be near enough.

 

[TLambert]

You may have purchased your series 18 winch from the same person as I ? Before realizing it would not fit between my frame member I had purchased a 12' wired remote . I now have it for sale on Craig's List. I plan on installing the smaller 12 series on my Humvee. My series 18 has a small sender wire attached for use with the wireless remote if desired.

do you have a link for ebay listing

 

[D Foster]

He mentioned a person from NJ and also Atlanta coming to purchase. I have planned an external set up and one that could also be used on heaver M35A3. The 12' winch is also an option. I am interested to hear about the sender wire. The unit I have is painted over, so wires and labels difficult. But there are six wires from contactor to a module behind.
Ultimately i am trying to determine whether i buy the 85394 (33') or the 77671 (12') . i can also go the 88527/88528 route and and a new Amphenol connector to match. the Plastic and Metal connectors have a different pin pattern.
Or do i go wireless?

The only thing I can tell you the pin pattern on mind for the wire remote has three pins that are the same distance apart and triangular shape. There's a different three pin pattern on same that are not equal distance apart. Hope this helps.

 

[TLambert]

The only thing I can tell you the pin pattern on mind for the wire remote has three pins that are the same distance apart and triangular shape. There's a different three pin pattern on same that are not equal distance apart. Hope this helps.

correct, the one you mention has 14S-1 style pin. the less expensive plastic connector is not the same.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Planning on 2AWG from battery to front quick connect. Depending on wire routing, maybe 0AWG to the rear.
I just don't know why they use 16AWG to the remote since current is low and voltage drop likely not significant enough to cause issue.
I do agree with durability and reliability, a lot to go wrong with remote, transmitter/receiver module and batteries. Leaning corded

the FMP unit looks durable for the M998 weight. debating on the M35 if it will be near enough.

Is it me or the Covid, You just answered your own question.

" I just don't know why they use 16AWG to the remote since current is low and voltage drop likely not significant enough to cause issue"

Wired controllers are pretty straight forwarded. Sure connectors need to mate / match correctly. Wired Too.

Just because it plugs in it may not work due to wiring schemes between models or manufactures, use caution. Normally just three wires and maybe a jumper in the connector or to be added in the winch. Wire 16-3 SO/SJ types very common, cheap and all you need.

Winch operation is and SHOULD be handled very seriously. Push button recovery can look easy... TILL something snaps. Know you loads limits and equipment .

YES er ree Bob, that's a nice shinny 12K unit. Till it all decides to let GO...looking for the STOP button, CAMO

BE SAFE

 

[Mogman]

Why not go with both types of remotes, you can get the wireless online for cheap and they have worked for me with no problems, BUT I would never totally depend on any wireless remote. All of the controls whether remote or direct is only sending B+ to one relay/relays stack or the another, only three wires are necessary, B+, IN and OUT, of course the wireless controller would need a ground.
On all my wireless remotes I put a switch to disable them, it would be a real drag to be tooling down ye ol highway and have some stray RF activate one of my winches.