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Any real benefit to installing a roll bar on M1009 ??

Sverige

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I'm considering a roll bar for my M1009 (see link below), although I'm not sure of it's real benefit as I don't do any serious off-roading. I initially thought it would be a good safety feature (in the event of an accident) but am having second thoughts.

Any suggestions or experience would be appreciated.

http://www.offroadltd.com/K5Products.htm
 

swbradley1

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Maybe we can get JW4x4 to chime in, he has a cage in his.

Makes for a Kodak moment with me trying to get in and out though...
 

tim292stro

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I must've watched a different video than you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1Tal3ZXmWQ


I'm expecting to cage the XM1027, not because I plan to off-road (really at all), I just don't want the cab space to be a crumple zone - pre 2000's trucks don't really have a crumple zone at all (except the people). If I do roll it (or if my dad, mom or wife rolls it) I don't want to have to deal with the drama...
 

cpf240

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I must've watched a different video than you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1Tal3ZXmWQ


I'm expecting to cage the XM1027, not because I plan to off-road (really at all), I just don't want the cab space to be a crumple zone - pre 2000's trucks don't really have a crumple zone at all (except the people). If I do roll it (or if my dad, mom or wife rolls it) I don't want to have to deal with the drama...

Not exactly the same, as that was a pre '84 Blazer, where there is no metal roof or b-pillars. I'd imagine that the M1009 would hold up a little bit better.
 

Recovry4x4

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The M1009 does have the half roof which adds some level of protection. It would likely help in a slow roll. Adding a cage that bolts to the floor ups this protection just a little but the cage is only as strong as the floor it's bolted too which isn't very strong. Tie some or all the mounts to the chassis and you have some protection. Going to be a call you have to make.
 

ODFever

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Sverige: Here are my 2cents + tax.

Installing a roll bar would reduce the interior room and might end up doing more harm than good. CUCV seat belts do not work like newer style seat belts. Newer seat belts pull constant tension and lock up faster because they don't have to wind up extra webbing before they lock. If you have your CUCV seat belt stretched out a bit to give you some wiggle room and you install a roll cage, you could get seriously injured in a rollover by slipping out of the belt and slamming into the cage. If you don't plan on taking your truck on serious off road trails, I'd advise against the install. It'll cost you a lot of money and time. Put your resources towards other additions: KC 851 HID lights, A/C, a trailer hitch. I have all three on my M1009, and I use them quite frequently.
 

tim292stro

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Wheel hop followed by some backwards motion, and improper steering which lets the front end get out to the side. Once that rig get about 45 degrees on a slope that steep, the engine is trying to push the front end down hill, and there's no rear end behind it to stop it any more - it just gets pushed out of the way.

I agree with many here low-speed rollovers at nearly ground level in the never K5 is pretty uneventful, and I'd offer that if you were going to put in a roll bar, you also replace the seats and belts to reflect the expectation that you'll roll over. Everything is a system - can't just change one part without consequences elsewhere. Also, if you don't cut out weight (interior metal) in the cab to make space for the cage, you are also raising the center of gravity, so might be increasing your likelihood of rolling over. If you do decide to build a cage, pad the heck out of the parts of the cage where it is possible. And if you run one don't forget the PPE... I rarely see off-roaders using helmets except when they are paid too run. It doesn't cost much and could save you from hitting your head against the rocky ground during a roll-over my last 2cents.
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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December 23rd 1977 I was driving home, doing about 55 on a two lane main road when a buick 225 ran a stop sign & hit me broadside. I was in a 72 3/4 ton pickup. He drove under me & caused me to roll end over end a half dozen times. Bad wreck! I broke my back, collarbone, bunch of ribs & had about 300 stiches on my mellon. (almost scalped me :() I was pinned under the wreckage for about 20 minutes. I would have given almost anything for a rollbar at the time. Not every roll is planned for, or a 3mph roll that lands in a snowbank or a mud pile. Kinda like insurance..... got it... but hope I never need it.2cents John
 

tennmogger

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I vote like John. Any older vehicle with no protective structure build in can use a rollbar for insurance.

From those two videos, Blazer rollover is caused by driver brain-fade.
 

olly hondro

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You guys are convincing me, I have to give some thought to the extra mass , moving the CG upward, that the roll bar will contribute. Addiiton of the roll bar might make a rollover more likely.
 

Recovry4x4

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You guys are convincing me, I have to give some thought to the extra mass , moving the CG upward, that the roll bar will contribute. Addiiton of the roll bar might make a rollover more likely.
I would think the weight of the steel would be about 75#. When dealing with a 5500# truck, 75# equally distributed above the CG might change the tipping point by an inch or so. One could strategically add 25# to each side of the frame rail and compensate for the cage if it was that critical. Heck, changing to a cast iron transfer case would more than do the job.
 

olly hondro

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OK, not to hijack the thread, my answer to the OP has changed to: yes, its worthwhile to install a rollbar/cage. You see, I am willing to change my position if presented with a good argument :)

I'll plan for a "family" roll cage to also protect rear passengers then compensate by taking out 2" of suspension lift. Net positive.
 

Recovry4x4

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Olly, that's good news. I've been over a few times and glad the cage was there. This has been a very worthwhile discussion.
 

mdeamicis

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I am glad the right decision was made. I will still chime in. Run the cage from front to back. You can get creative with the placement of vertical posts to not make it a hassle for the kids and crew to get in the back. Run racing harnesses, 5 of them, it's costly but it is worth it. You will more than offset the weight of the cage with real bumpers front and back and a good set of structural sliders between the axles on either side under the doors. Have em hang down a couple inches and stick out about six inches and you have running boards that are structural and functional and look hella cool. If you want to be real trick, have both bumpers built to accommodate your 12 ton winch that is in a carry along cage made to sit in the bumper cradles made to hold it. We are talking real money here but you do not have to do it all at once and all of it is money well spent that makes life easier and more fun on and off trail. Like has been mentioned a few times in this thread. Rollovers are seldom part of the plan. Because life is what happens while we are busy making other plans.
 
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