Anybody use Milspray restoration paint ?

[acesneights1]

I got a gallon I am getting ready to paint Sunday. Any tricks ? Is the stuff decent ? I could not find anywhere a civilian could buy real CARC paint and from what I saw I am not equipped to spray it safely anyway. Any pointers/opinions would be great. The Olive drab I got from them was a bit more yellow than the original on my 1008 but it's close. Milspray sells CARC but could not sell it to me...

 

[emmado22]

Drive the vehicle to their place in NJ and have them paint it. They are good people. I've used them numerous times for various GOVT projects.

 

[Hasbeen]

I`m surprised that they would not sell CARC.
Our company purchased it from them in Green 383 last year, until we found
that we could buy it from our local Sherwin Williams (#s on receipt show 5012-32235 Gallon F93G105 MIL-DTL-53039C-T1) I`m not sure which portion of that is a part number.
It costs us $86.54 / gallon.

I hope this helps

Hasbeen

p.s. That stuff is bad news....Respirators/ventilation etc.....or it will make your kids be born naked !

 

[acesneights1]

What's bad news / The CARC or the non CARC that I am using ?

 

[acesneights1]

DO I need a suit to spray the resto paint or will a regular respirator be ok ?

 

[Nonotagain]

Not knowing exactly what Milspray paint you purchased, I can't tell you how it will apply for you.

Any polyurethane paint requires the use of a respirator. CARC is nothing more than a polyurethane paint with pigments that absorb different spectrum's of light. The curing agent used is an isocynate which causes allergic reactions ranging from a tightness of breath to the mucus membranes in your lungs swelling causing a reduction in oxygen getting into the blood stream. Extreme exposure can kill.

I work with all types of military specification paints on a daily basis. I use a Racal air purifying respirator even though monitoring has shown extremely small exposures.

Wear gloves when mixing and applying all paints to limit skin contact, wash your hands when finished and no eating or drinking in the area where you are painting.

Tyvek is nice if you have access, but washing soiled clothing when done in a separate wash is acceptable.

 

[HillsAndHollows]

I bought the restoration 383 green from Milspray about a year ago and painted my M35A2. It was the easiest paint job I ever did and came out great. It is water based and all you do is stir it up, and pour into your sprayer as it comes from the can. Clean up was like using latex house paint, it rinses right off.....until it drys, then it's there to stay. It's very good stuff.....

 

[acesneights1]

Yep. No overspray either. Not all sticky like Enamel but the color was off from the original. More yellowy IMHO.
Thing I noticed is it "seems" to lay out well like lacquer but I laid it on too heavy at first and got some "flow indicators".

 

[acesneights1]

Well, update. I am not happy with the paint. it seems to have no adhesion. I sanded the whole truck with 400 grit. I am wondering if that was not enough ? I can scratch the stuff off with my fingernails and it's been on for a few weeks now. I fear the first blast with a powerwasher, it may come off in sheets. Any ideas ?

 

[Keith_J]

Temperature, humidity and time all are needed for conventional paint to cure. Conventional CARC uses the reaction between the two components to cure, it also needs heat and time. If it has been cool, wait a few weeks.

On CARC, once it is mixed, it is relatively safe but still you have diisocynate vapors. This is why special respirators or airline respirators are required. Once cured, the hazards are gone unless you burn it but then, the issue is the cyanide gas which could form.

 

[acesneights1]

Milspray is supposedly the same as CARC without the CARC agent. They told me civilians cannot buy it. It was hot when I painted the truck. It's actually closer to a month now.

 

[Arnheim]

Does anyone on the west coast have experience/know of shops that will repaint an entire vehicle or large components with CARC?