• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Anyone have info on the M32K-4A?

Ram1911

New member
26
21
3
Location
Mooresville, IN
That is a different style of the model.
Yes, the apparently earlier -K4, not the -K4A. Just looking at the pics, I realized this thing was shorter than the 2 I own. Then I looked at the pic of the data plate. Sure enough, a -K4. Either an earlier design, or the -K4A is a lengthened version that may be of similar vintage. Could probably find out based on the contract number on the plate. That's the only way I knew the general vintage of mine.
 

Ram1911

New member
26
21
3
Location
Mooresville, IN
Well to start with - the construction of this trailer is aluminum, and it's listed as having a load capacity of 8000 pounds. Since it's "military" - it's already overbuilt (which many of the civilian aluminum trailers are not) - plus it's construction appears to be riveted together , vs. the typical "civilian" trailers which are all welded. I have a couple of aluminum trailers myself - one of which was homebuilt in the 1970's and is still going strong - but there are also a lot of people who have had issues with *welded* aluminum trailers , because the welds can be the points where cracks start.

So the rivet construction is a plus.
Interesting, you mention riveting vs welding. I was perusing aluminum dump trailers, since Dad was talking about how his late-70s 28' Ravens semi-trailer dump is breaking up underneath, and it having another farmer who is also a machinist/welder rebuild it over the summer. New "East" brand dumps have bolt fastened crossbeams for that reason, I learned. Back to the subject and retrofitting. I have actually considered turning one of my pair into a medium travel trailer similar to what you described, but it would be a full 8 ft wide, and much lower. I think THAT could be done, but what I'm not certain of, as I have not removed the somewhat thick (3/16"?) top plate, is whether the top plate is part of the structure or not. There's about $1000 worth of metal right there, I think. I've also considered how to go about lightening the whole thing by removing excess metal. None of these ideas are actually necessary, beyond removing the as-built axles and adding the tongue, to make a TT out of it - one capable of going places beyond the local campground. I'm halfway tempted to build the top and figure out the axles later. The extra width is partially insulation anyway. I figured on using GPS panel for insulation, but after doing some exploring, I can probably have a body built from EPS filled fiberglass sandwich for a reasonable price, with DIY assembly.
 

9S200

New member
2
2
3
Location
Idaho
Hello, All! New recruit to the ranks.
I’m impressed with this community‘s willingness to share knowledge,
Especially, Ram1911, for posting the TM for this trailer, & Chief_919, for the post on M105 trailer brake conversion, Thank you!
I just bought a -K4A. The above posts have made it much easier to research parts for a Dexter electric/hydro brake system to legally tow the -K4A with my ‘02 Dakota. I‘ll have an adapter box to take 12-pin mil connector to 7-blade civilian and enclose the breakaway hardware.
I would like to keep the air/hydro brake system intact as I’d like to get a TBD M44 series as a prime mover in the future.
This goal in mind, put a tee in the hydro line after the original master cylinder to run to the Dexter actuator.
Power & control signals would use the existing harness Blackout lights wiring switched (SPDT) to the Dexter unit.
To operate in original config (air/hydro), throw the switch from brake controller to Blackout lights, remove adapter box, & connect power/air lines per TM.
Is there any reason(s) why this would/should not work?
Your observations & experienced insight would be appreciated
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,705
19,743
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Hello, All! New recruit to the ranks.
I’m impressed with this community‘s willingness to share knowledge,
Especially, Ram1911, for posting the TM for this trailer, & Chief_919, for the post on M105 trailer brake conversion, Thank you!
I just bought a -K4A. The above posts have made it much easier to research parts for a Dexter electric/hydro brake system to legally tow the -K4A with my ‘02 Dakota. I‘ll have an adapter box to take 12-pin mil connector to 7-blade civilian and enclose the breakaway hardware.
I would like to keep the air/hydro brake system intact as I’d like to get a TBD M44 series as a prime mover in the future.
This goal in mind, put a tee in the hydro line after the original master cylinder to run to the Dexter actuator.
Power & control signals would use the existing harness Blackout lights wiring switched (SPDT) to the Dexter unit.
To operate in original config (air/hydro), throw the switch from brake controller to Blackout lights, remove adapter box, & connect power/air lines per TM.
Is there any reason(s) why this would/should not work?
Your observations & experienced insight would be appreciated
.
Welcome to the Outfit!

Definitely a good bunch of folks here...
Don't hesitate to ask questions - and post a few pictures.
That way the rest of us can oogle your new-to you trailer. :cool:
 

9S200

New member
2
2
3
Location
Idaho
Thanks for the greeting, Mullaney!

…I think THAT could be done, but what I'm not certain of, as I have not removed the somewhat thick (3/16"?) top plate, is whether the top plate is part of the structure or not.
I noticed on my trailer, which has a lot of missing/peeling anti-slip deck coat, the deck appears to be attached to the frame with big flush mounted screws.
 

Dangbrodave

New member
3
0
1
Location
Camp Pendleton
Well to start with - the construction of this trailer is aluminum, and it's listed as having a load capacity of 8000 pounds. Since it's "military" - it's already overbuilt (which many of the civilian aluminum trailers are not) - plus it's construction appears to be riveted together , vs. the typical "civilian" trailers which are all welded. I have a couple of aluminum trailers myself - one of which was homebuilt in the 1970's and is still going strong - but there are also a lot of people who have had issues with *welded* aluminum trailers , because the welds can be the points where cracks start.

So the rivet construction is a plus.

My thought was that I'd buy one of these - pull off the front and rear axles - and then install a pair of Dexter Torflex (or similar) style "civilian" axles under
the frame , and then build and install a tongue so it could be towed like any other bumper pull trailer.

These m32k-4a's sell (typically) - in the $1000-$1600 range , and appear to be in very good condition. A pair of axles and tires is probably going to cost me around $1400 or so.

An 8000 pound "civilian" aluminum trailer - is going to run in the $6-$7000 range at best.

So for a little bit of work - that would get me an aluminum trailer load capable of 8K - for less than half price.


It's just an idea........... ;-)
Did you end up going through with it?
 

Dangbrodave

New member
3
0
1
Location
Camp Pendleton
I just picked up two of these at Barstow. I stacked the 2nd one on its wheels on the deck of the pulled trailer(cross chained down)Towed them 250 miles home w/o any issues. They will weave a bit at speeds above 55 mph or on rough Hiway like the 99 out of Bakersfield. Pulled them behind my 3/4 ton GMC. Really wouldn't even know they were there if I didn't look in the mirrors. I passed more commercial chippies than I normally see in a year and was not given a second look. A damper on the front tierod I think would fix the weave.
How are those trailers working out for you?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks