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Anyone have info on the M32K-4A?

Ram1911

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Mooresville, IN
That is a different style of the model.
Yes, the apparently earlier -K4, not the -K4A. Just looking at the pics, I realized this thing was shorter than the 2 I own. Then I looked at the pic of the data plate. Sure enough, a -K4. Either an earlier design, or the -K4A is a lengthened version that may be of similar vintage. Could probably find out based on the contract number on the plate. That's the only way I knew the general vintage of mine.
 

Ram1911

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Location
Mooresville, IN
Well to start with - the construction of this trailer is aluminum, and it's listed as having a load capacity of 8000 pounds. Since it's "military" - it's already overbuilt (which many of the civilian aluminum trailers are not) - plus it's construction appears to be riveted together , vs. the typical "civilian" trailers which are all welded. I have a couple of aluminum trailers myself - one of which was homebuilt in the 1970's and is still going strong - but there are also a lot of people who have had issues with *welded* aluminum trailers , because the welds can be the points where cracks start.

So the rivet construction is a plus.
Interesting, you mention riveting vs welding. I was perusing aluminum dump trailers, since Dad was talking about how his late-70s 28' Ravens semi-trailer dump is breaking up underneath, and it having another farmer who is also a machinist/welder rebuild it over the summer. New "East" brand dumps have bolt fastened crossbeams for that reason, I learned. Back to the subject and retrofitting. I have actually considered turning one of my pair into a medium travel trailer similar to what you described, but it would be a full 8 ft wide, and much lower. I think THAT could be done, but what I'm not certain of, as I have not removed the somewhat thick (3/16"?) top plate, is whether the top plate is part of the structure or not. There's about $1000 worth of metal right there, I think. I've also considered how to go about lightening the whole thing by removing excess metal. None of these ideas are actually necessary, beyond removing the as-built axles and adding the tongue, to make a TT out of it - one capable of going places beyond the local campground. I'm halfway tempted to build the top and figure out the axles later. The extra width is partially insulation anyway. I figured on using GPS panel for insulation, but after doing some exploring, I can probably have a body built from EPS filled fiberglass sandwich for a reasonable price, with DIY assembly.
 

9S200

New member
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Location
Idaho
Hello, All! New recruit to the ranks.
I’m impressed with this community‘s willingness to share knowledge,
Especially, Ram1911, for posting the TM for this trailer, & Chief_919, for the post on M105 trailer brake conversion, Thank you!
I just bought a -K4A. The above posts have made it much easier to research parts for a Dexter electric/hydro brake system to legally tow the -K4A with my ‘02 Dakota. I‘ll have an adapter box to take 12-pin mil connector to 7-blade civilian and enclose the breakaway hardware.
I would like to keep the air/hydro brake system intact as I’d like to get a TBD M44 series as a prime mover in the future.
This goal in mind, put a tee in the hydro line after the original master cylinder to run to the Dexter actuator.
Power & control signals would use the existing harness Blackout lights wiring switched (SPDT) to the Dexter unit.
To operate in original config (air/hydro), throw the switch from brake controller to Blackout lights, remove adapter box, & connect power/air lines per TM.
Is there any reason(s) why this would/should not work?
Your observations & experienced insight would be appreciated
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
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Supporting Vendor
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Charlotte NC
Hello, All! New recruit to the ranks.
I’m impressed with this community‘s willingness to share knowledge,
Especially, Ram1911, for posting the TM for this trailer, & Chief_919, for the post on M105 trailer brake conversion, Thank you!
I just bought a -K4A. The above posts have made it much easier to research parts for a Dexter electric/hydro brake system to legally tow the -K4A with my ‘02 Dakota. I‘ll have an adapter box to take 12-pin mil connector to 7-blade civilian and enclose the breakaway hardware.
I would like to keep the air/hydro brake system intact as I’d like to get a TBD M44 series as a prime mover in the future.
This goal in mind, put a tee in the hydro line after the original master cylinder to run to the Dexter actuator.
Power & control signals would use the existing harness Blackout lights wiring switched (SPDT) to the Dexter unit.
To operate in original config (air/hydro), throw the switch from brake controller to Blackout lights, remove adapter box, & connect power/air lines per TM.
Is there any reason(s) why this would/should not work?
Your observations & experienced insight would be appreciated
.
Welcome to the Outfit!

Definitely a good bunch of folks here...
Don't hesitate to ask questions - and post a few pictures.
That way the rest of us can oogle your new-to you trailer. :cool:
 

9S200

New member
2
2
3
Location
Idaho
Thanks for the greeting, Mullaney!

…I think THAT could be done, but what I'm not certain of, as I have not removed the somewhat thick (3/16"?) top plate, is whether the top plate is part of the structure or not.
I noticed on my trailer, which has a lot of missing/peeling anti-slip deck coat, the deck appears to be attached to the frame with big flush mounted screws.
 

Dangbrodave

New member
3
0
1
Location
Camp Pendleton
Well to start with - the construction of this trailer is aluminum, and it's listed as having a load capacity of 8000 pounds. Since it's "military" - it's already overbuilt (which many of the civilian aluminum trailers are not) - plus it's construction appears to be riveted together , vs. the typical "civilian" trailers which are all welded. I have a couple of aluminum trailers myself - one of which was homebuilt in the 1970's and is still going strong - but there are also a lot of people who have had issues with *welded* aluminum trailers , because the welds can be the points where cracks start.

So the rivet construction is a plus.

My thought was that I'd buy one of these - pull off the front and rear axles - and then install a pair of Dexter Torflex (or similar) style "civilian" axles under
the frame , and then build and install a tongue so it could be towed like any other bumper pull trailer.

These m32k-4a's sell (typically) - in the $1000-$1600 range , and appear to be in very good condition. A pair of axles and tires is probably going to cost me around $1400 or so.

An 8000 pound "civilian" aluminum trailer - is going to run in the $6-$7000 range at best.

So for a little bit of work - that would get me an aluminum trailer load capable of 8K - for less than half price.


It's just an idea........... ;-)
Did you end up going through with it?
 

Dangbrodave

New member
3
0
1
Location
Camp Pendleton
I just picked up two of these at Barstow. I stacked the 2nd one on its wheels on the deck of the pulled trailer(cross chained down)Towed them 250 miles home w/o any issues. They will weave a bit at speeds above 55 mph or on rough Hiway like the 99 out of Bakersfield. Pulled them behind my 3/4 ton GMC. Really wouldn't even know they were there if I didn't look in the mirrors. I passed more commercial chippies than I normally see in a year and was not given a second look. A damper on the front tierod I think would fix the weave.
How are those trailers working out for you?
 
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