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APOC's singled and ready to plunder n pilidge!

Recovry4x4

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Looks good Captain. The ease of steering surprises me. I'd think that as long as you're not running it max load all the time, the bearings could handle it.
 

Alredneck

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Thanks Kenny the tires crown a lil bit so that may help but i think cause all the tread void theres actually less rubber touching the ground. Canon they are firestone 13/14r20s ( yes its on the box) i just asked for 14r20 tubes. Give me a couple days and im goin to do a writ up on here about mounting the tire with pics ( gotta find my phone usb cable ). and maybe some offroad pics this weekend. good luck all and thanks for the comments. Captain
 

jblack6527

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Re: RE: SMLS

CliffW said:
I did not think that you could put the 395/85R20 XMLs on stock rims. Freight Train was saying you need to flip the hubs and the rims or your will fry your bearings. A lot of twisting load on the bearings running that way. How does that fix it from frying the bearings? Like I said in the past it give the truck a whole new look. One I like.
:driver: [thumbzup]
Flipping the hubs allows you to run the rear wheels dish in, like the fronts, and the wheels will track in line. Think of it as a lever, when the dish is out the weight of the truck is pulling out from the bottom and when the dish is in, the weight is pulling in where it has the axle flange and brake drums to support it. I know that doesn't really make a lot of sense, but I'm not really good at explaining things over text.. lol

EDIT: I drew a quick image in paint to try and describe what I was saying. There is a much better picture around here somewhere, but I can't find it. Hope that helps.. Oh, by the way, truck looks great!
 

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Jakob

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RE: Re: RE: SMLS

A quick elaboration on what you're trying to say...
With the wheels out, the weight of the truck is assisting the wheels in trying to move away from the truck. With the wheels in, the weight of the truck is "correcting" the wheels movement from the truck.
 

yorkgulch2

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RE: Re: RE: SMLS

The tire wheel combo looks great! Do the front tires rub at full turn?
Also do you have pictures showing the amount of bulge on the front tires?
Part of the bounce might be from pulling in the side walls more than intended.
My 395/85R20 Goodyears (supposedly softer??) on 10 inch rims bounce a little at 70 lbs with a load of logs.
 

joec

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The only reason you had to flip hubs was to correct for the right offset at the time. Bearing failure is likely to happen because of lack of Maintenance.
 

abh3

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Ok, where are the comments about how you have to have wide rims for 395/85R20s?!?! :D Are the tires terribly 'crowned' on the stock rims? This looks like a solution to me, especially for those of us mostly off road types as these tires are everywhere, big rims are not...
 

Alredneck

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OK so I have been doing some work on the ole girl and shes slowly coming along. First I adjusted the freeplay in the clutch so now thats good ( no pics sorry ) then I had to install a fuel pump so it wasnt so hard on the IP all the time. So I went with a universal Carter pump. Its only 12V but im about to add 12v accs so who cares right? After wiring the pump up we took the ole girl for a drive and she drove good the IP was a lot quieter than before. And she pulled real strong. Also didnt seem to idle as rough. When we got back we noticed fuel dripping from one of the fuel lines ( cheap plastic crap ) so we took it apart from the filter to the IP head. THinking it would be easy to replace the compression fittings for barbed and hose clamps we set out looking for parts. All we had was the nut for the compression fitting whichis a alien 9/16 w 14mm1.25pitch threads so no where in this world can you find npt fitting that fit that. Danm. THe truck sat inop overnight and the next morning I went back and look to see what else I could tear up, Luckily there was the other brass fitting left so I unbolted them and took them to the parts house, now we are cookn cause these are standard threads. So got what we needed and got back to the duece. I went and got extras of 2 different types of fittings just in case to play with just to make sure we could put this back together again like I wanted it. The filter side went smooth as silk, but the IP side the first barb wouldnt seat all the way so every time we cranked the truck up it would leak a lil bit. So after several failed atempts at sealling it we swaped to the other barb and it sealed first time go. Eurekka!!! Mission Accomplished!! Well that not being enough fun I have had the crazy idea for awhile about routing my exhuast under the truck back towards the tandems. So while on the test drive we took OLE Apoc out to the parts house to get fitted for new exhaust. The guys said it would be in the next day, so we took back home and let her get a good nights sleep. The next morning we took the dodge to get the parts to the sum of $130 not to bad and load up. I didnt feel to good that day so it waited till the weekend. Alright feeling a lil better ( danm stay away from IEDs folk they aint worth it ) so break out the sawzall, my help leaves for the long weekend so its just me and some pipe and clamps and stuff. After repeated cuss words lots of banging things, using my head, arms legs knees, wire, 550 cord and whatever else I can find to hold everything in place I get it under the truck and looking purdy. Sart tighting and the S-turn falls off doooooo.. So I recruit a private passing by to help out and he does willingly 5mns later everythings wheres it is supposed to be tight like a tiger! I fire her up and she sounds pretty good. But im to tired and wore out to take for a test drive.
 

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Alredneck

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Yea I got the exhaust at the local Carquest dealer ordered: 90s, 2ea, 45s, 1ea, 1ea section 3 1/2 pipe. plus the 4 clamps. and it was right around the $130-135 mark. If I want to take it back to in between the tandems I will need one more 45 and one more 90. Cutting the S-turn coming from the turbo was the hardest part and I made 3-4 cut slowly removing a lil material at a time till it was lined up the way I liked it But if you remove the clamp it would look like the two pieces were meant to be together. I wanted to do 4inch pipe but the T-case is in the way and I didnt feel like hammering a dent in the pipe for clearance. The 3 1/2 fits perfect with just enough room to spare, one thing to watch is your battery cables to make sure they dont come in contact with the hot exhaust. I folded mine back in the tray since my batteries are smaller and have room to spare.
 

Alredneck

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Yea the turbo is loud as ussual but I havent taken it for a real test drive yet but I will get a sound bit for yall. So yall can compare. I tried getting one before I removed the old exhaust but it was deleted accidently. OOPPPS!! But then I got to thinking just about everybody on here knows what a whistler turbo sounds like. So we will see. On payday I plan on working on the new intake and snorkle for it, the hanger to finish the exhaust, and hopefully start turning a 55gal drum into a heated fuel tank for WVO!! I also got some 12V acc's to run but have been putting them off to get the best idea to run a seperate system and find a good humvee alternator. Lots of other plans in the works just need more money as the time is starting to become available seeing the Army's " taking me out to pastor and all ". FREEDOM!!!!!!! Stay tuned to your favorite APOC channel..................
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Hey Captain,
did you ever take a recording of your rear exhaust sound? I'm working on a similar project and would like to know if it is worth my time.

Thanks!
 

IHASFIP

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I was curious to see how he mounted the tires so easily. I don't think I want to run any that big but was still curious as I am in the tire business.

D
 
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