Are Omix Ada radiators good to go?

[Waters]

New to wrenching on cars, let alone ones that are 60+ years old. Had my 53 M38A1 for about three weeks now, and took it out for an easy 15 mile round trip the other day. It was the longest it had gone in awhile, apparently, as about the time I was pulling down my road I started smelling coolant. Sure enough, it was boiling pretty good and had spewed everywhere under the hood by the time I got to my garage.

Radiator and overflow hoses were pretty well shot anyway, so I got new ones and installed after I drained the system and also found my 11-50 marked thermostat was stuck open. So in went a new 160 degree thermostat, new housing gasket etc. Tonight I had a time getting a new 11.5 quarts of coolant back in the system, which I attribute to air build up inside. Ran the engine every so often with the cap off, figuring that would work the air out. Finally got about all the coolant inside, but I've noted very slow fill and many clogged inlets at the top of the radiator visible through the filler neck.

Troubleshooting is being made harder by the fact that my temp guage doesn't work (I'm going to inspect for proper ground, as my fuel gauge doesn't either), and idling about 10 minutes resulted in what I consider too much heat, but I am not certain what the conditions are supposed to be like, and without a temp reading I'm kinda sunk. I have a feeling the radiator is open enough that it ran fine on several mile trips for the first two weeks I owned it, and clogged enough to the point that 7.5 miles of sustained 40-45 mph speed almost did it in.

At this point I assume the radiator just can't handle the jeep anymore. I figured I'd be in for a recore but the prices reported for that are near a new radiator anyways...problem is, I look around at jeep parts websites and the options seem to be either Omix Ada or no name "custom made in the USA" units that are about $600. I nearly pulled the trigger on the USA made from kaiser willys, but noticed that there is a 4 week wait, and I'd love to get this thing back on the road before summer is completely over. So the readily available units at the same price are more appealing, but I've read about trouble with Omix parts (especially the water pumps!). Any input from you guys that have been at this for a long time? I'm kinda frustrated with my lack of knowledge and the lack of parts availability.

 

[NDT]

Can I ask a question? Have you considered having your existing radiator "rodded out" by a local radiator shop?

 

[Jeeagle]

I am told the Omix ones really are not that great. It would be better top have your old one cleaned/rodded/repaired. If your old one is really too chewed up let me know we may have a few take out ones in use able shape. You can look us(Where I work) up Quarter Ton & Military and can help or direct you in best ways for parts and information.

$30 bucks spent on a Infrared Temp gun is one of the best things you can ever do. Not only your no longer second guessing on what temps are but excellent Diag tool. Applications for use is amazing from cooling, bearings, fuel mixture, electrical shorts etc etc. I highly suggest you have one.

 

[just me]

I have had very bad experience with every Omix thing I've ever wasted money on. Your milage may vary.

 

[o1951]

The metal on older radiators was much thicker than newer stuff. I would take it to a good radiator shop and ask them what they can do. I have taken old radiators in with good results. On occasion, they tell me they had to close off a tube or 2, but with a clean radiator, I will not have a problem, and I did not.

 

[just me]

A COMPLETE rebuild of my radiator by the local commercial radiator shop was $140. I have the correct radiator and it isn't some almost correct wimpy thin thing for a lot more money.

 

[Waters]

I have not taken the radiator to anyone at this point, but its apparent I should do so. Thanks everyone for the replies! Just hope my new manufacture thermostat is good to go as well, I've heard the difference in height causes them to not come in contact enough with the coolant and therefore not heat and open when they should. I've also heard I should drill a small hole in it; I noticed in the old bellows style one I removed there was a tiny hole.

 

[o1951]

The purpose of the hole is to allow a small amount of coolant to pass when the thermostat is closed.
That way, hot water does not get trapped in the engine, and reaches the thermostat bulb. Make sure you put thermostat in with bulb facing engine so it can "see" coolant. If you put it on radiator side, it may not open until engine overheats.

some new thermostats do not have the bleeder hole because they are made loose, and flow enough coolant through the valve when closed.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

I put an Omix radiator on my '53 M38A1. When I received it and saw how bad the manufacturing was, I called Walck's and complained. They said it would work fine, which it has, but that they really aren't very high quality. I am having my old one rebuilt just-in-case. So, in my case, it works but I'm doubtful it will last 63 years like the last one did! YMMV

 

[saddamsnightmare]

October 30th, 2016.


If rodding won't correct the problem, if your original radiator is not a "Bucket" type (like the M35A2's), you can have a radiator shop recore it for much less then a replacement, and if you add 1 row of tubes in the new core, you'll never have a problem with overheats.