Assistance please. My wait to start light blinks.

[FearedEffect]

So I've read through many of the threads on here regarding this issue and here's where I'm at.

Problem: Wait to start light blinks. I also suspect glow plugs aren't functioning properly at least intermittently.

New vehicle has started instantly so far except for one cold occasion which took three tries.

I have the Nartron EESS box. With yellow label. Sorry I forgot to take a pic but will add one if needed. Question I'm very confused about the generations of boxes is this version reliable?

I have added the Kascar grounding kit to my vehicle hoping that this was possibly a ground issue. This appears to have no change. Also unhooked EESS connector to check for corrosion none found.

Glow plugs tested for resistance looked good 1 ohm if I remember right. My meter gave the same reading for all.

So I figure most likely EESS box or TSU. I'm kinda leaning towards TSU.

Does this seem right to you guys or do can you suggest some more tests?

What TSU do I need to purchase for my EESS?

Thanks.

 

[FearedEffect]

I've read that the EESS doesn't need the TSU to start. My car does start but the glow plugs and wait light don't work properly. Could this be TSU failure?

Should I buy a new TSU first since there cheap and go from there? Or would it be better to get a S3 box with TSU? This would be a more reliable box correct? I see a few are on eBay seems like a wise investment or would I just be throwing parts at a problem?

Thanks

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

AFAIK, that box needs the TSU. Same one I have, I'm also have issues with mine. Sometimes I'll get the quick flash, sometimes I'll get 3 seconds on the wait light and other times I'll get the full 7 seconds. Unlike you, mine will not start without the light going 7 seconds without cranking forever. Do you get anything from the wait light? If you don't I would start there checking connections to the wait light and replacing it then move on to the TSU. Just my opinion. Good luck,If it's starting immediately everytime, I'd say it was the light itself.

 

[FearedEffect]

AFAIK, that box needs the TSU. Same one I have, I'm also have issues with mine. Sometimes I'll get the quick flash, sometimes I'll get 3 seconds on the wait light and other times I'll get the full 7 seconds. Unlike you, mine will not start without the light going 7 seconds without cranking forever. Do you get anything from the wait light? If you don't I would start there checking connections to the wait light and replacing it then move on to the TSU. Just my opinion. Good luck,If it's starting immediately everytime, I'd say it was the light itself.

Since my wait light blinks it must work correct? I would think all connections to it would be good?

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Since my wait light blinks it must work correct? I would think all connections to it would be good?

Well if your wait light blinks, it's not the wait light. I would next buy a new TSU. I just bought one from Kascar, A KDS, first thing I'll replace, then a new box. The light should come on for about 7 seconds anytime the engine isn't warmed up. Just blinking isn't functioning right.

 

[Jakob1944]

Good info....thanks

 

[79f250guy]

Mine just blinked fast when I got mine I have the older Natron Box a new glow plug controller solved my issue. Check out TM-9-2320-280-20-1 has great info on testing including a ohm test for the controller. mine ohm'd out bad so I replaced it and that solved my problem. Better than just replacing things cuz it might be the problem. I always like to do some diagnostic testing first. Good luck!

 

[dmetalmiki]

Well if your wait light blinks, it's not the wait light. I would next buy a new TSU. I just bought one from Kascar, A KDS, first thing I'll replace, then a new box. The light should come on for about 7 seconds anytime the engine isn't warmed up. Just blinking isn't functioning right.

Have to absolutely agree, good info.

 

[Thecaptain]

A really quick, simple first check is your ground right behind the instrument cluster. I had a short blink before, a quick tighten of that bolt got it back to normal behavior. Doesn't cost anything to try. Otherwise, you'll need to follow the great advise here.

 

[Bocephus]

Can someone please explain to a newby, exactly what is going on and what I need to buy and replace? My Humvee wait light has always blinked since I got it............I just thought that was normal for it..... It always starts.

 

[Action]

Mine just blinked fast when I got mine I have the older Natron Box a new glow plug controller solved my issue. Check out TM-9-2320-280-20-1 has great info on testing including a ohm test for the controller. mine ohm'd out bad so I replaced it and that solved my problem. Better than just replacing things cuz it might be the problem. I always like to do some diagnostic testing first. Good luck!

did you already read this manual?

 

[79f250guy]

Well not the entire thing lol but have certainly used it to help solve some of my issues with my truck. Lots of good info.

 

[JR Scout]

Similar problem happened to me today with a slightly different twist. Got a 998 from the auction lot a couple of weeks ago, and it has started normally several times since then- the yellow wait light comes on for a few seconds with the lever in 'run', then it starts immediately after the light goes off when the lever goes to 'start'. Today the wait light goes off after a few seconds, then when I try to start I get a heavy thunk/grinding noise behind the start lever (eventually determine it is coming from the EESS box), and it goes dead just like it has a weak battery. I put both batteries on a charger separately, and they take very little charge. Hook them back up, and external lights work fine. When I turn the lever to run (lever straight up), the wait light pulses/blinks in tandem with the brake light next to it. The noise from the EESS is synched up with the pulse. It blinks several times, goes out for a few seconds, then blinks again several times in a repeating pattern. When I try to start it when the light goes off, I get the same EESS box noise and light dimming that I started with. EESS cannon plug is shiny, clean, and tightly connected. The EESS is a Natron.
I'm an oil change-level mechanic, so most of my knowledge on this is what I have read elsewhere on SS. I plan on checking the batteries to verify that they are OK, but do the more learned folks reading this think I am on the right trail in suspecting the EESS is the culprit?