Assistance with Deuce mechanical unknowns

[Nitrodiver]

Long time listener first time caller.


Back story: 7-8 years ago a friend bought a 71' Kaiser jeep w/w deuce for next to nothing to use as a farm truck. It wasn't running so we pulled it to his house. It's been sitting in that same place outside ever since and he's never touched it. Never even tried to start it. After years of trying to buy it from him, seems he's finally willing to let it go. In talking to him the other day he asked if I still interested in it. He said he's had other people ask what he wanted for it. So he's decided to do a sealed bid type of thing. He's said I can look at things but can't do any real mechanical work. Like trying to start it. He wants to sell it "as is", he's an odd guy like that.


My question is, what's it worth parted out if the engine is toast and ways to ck the mechanical nature of the major components? Without actually tearing into it, I do realize that's the only real way to know for sure. The closer I can get to knowing for sure wile respecting the owners wished the better off I am.


Here's what I've been able to find out about it. Unknown how long it been since it ran. Seems to be pretty complete. Hardtop has some rust around the door openings. All the glass is intact. data plate on dash matches s/n on frame. It's been rust proofed. LDT 465-1D with 6-89 stamped on the engine plate. There is also a pop rivet and the top part of a tag inside the drivers door. Evidence seems to show its been to a depot for repair. It has 28K mi and 1X39 hrs. Unknown second digit, I'll try to verify what that number is. Body is in pretty good shape few places with rust holes. Bed is missing tailgate and has some holes cut in the bed. To suggest it was once a FD brush truck. Winch cable is missing but the winch is all there. Even the top plate over winch drum is straight. One side of the rear axles appears to be leaking diff oil. All the rear tires even seem to be holding air. No other fluids seem to be leaking. Fuel tank looks to be in good shape. No oil in antifreeze, that I could see, still smells like antifreeze. To keep it short That's the high points. I'm expecting the usual brake work axle seals and bearings ect. I have no illusions about the work or money it will take to bring it back provided the major components are good. For the money I'd spend for a new engine and the purchase price of the truck. I could get a running driving truck off CL fairly local.


My gut tells me it will probably run and drive after a little coaxing, could be a simple put batts in it and fire it up. Or the engine could be locked up. Is there a way to rotate the engine by hand to see if it's locked up? By turning the crank bolt like on a gas engine. Due to the compression can that even be done? Its hard to price the unknown. On the off chance the engine or trans is unserviceable and I'm left with a parts truck. I don't want to be out of a lot of cash, if it does turn out to be a parts truck I'd like to be able to recover most if not all of any investment. There are a lot of mechanical unknowns with this truck. That makes me uneasy, I like to know what I am getting mechanically. I try to do my homework part of which is why I'm posting this. So if anyone has suggestions of things that I'm missing or I should, or you would, check let me know please. I did a search but didn't come away with much.


Any help would be appreciated.

 

[cattlerepairman]

So...got a replacement engine along the way. If it runs and does not have tons of blow-by, good. If not, plan for at least head gasket. From what you are describing, plan on doing 6x brakes, brake lines/hoses and axle seals. Sitting outside for a long time without moving is unkind to brake safety. E-brake may need a spring, a cable, shoes or nothing. Plan for it.

Tires hold air, cool - but are they safe to run? If in doubt, plan $100 a piece for good used on rims.

The potential cost of repairs/service (especially if it needs to pass safety inspection before registering) will help determine how much above this cost you want to put into that envelope. Trucks with trees growing out of them where owners think that truck is somehow gold-plated are often not worth pursuing....
Go look for a well maintained guaranteed runner instead.

My 5 cents.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Its worth $1k at most with the unknowns. It takes a lot of effort to part one out or swap a motor. If you decide to swap the motor, it will need new brakes and bearings, none of which are cheap. As mentioned tires, etc, etc.



You'll probably have $6k into it after all said and done. Buy one running and known good for that amount.

 

[Nitrodiver]

I'm in the process of a list costs for the parts. I'll see where that ends up.

Gimpyrob, I was thinking the same dollar amounts you are. 4-6K parts wise and 1K on the "as is"
part. I don't really want to go through the effort of parting one out. I just hate to see a piece of classic iron go to a bad home or the scrap heap. I was hoping there might be some tricks that I could use to help narrow down some of the unknowns.

Tires though holding air are will definitely have to be replaced. New seats, minor bodywork, paint ect. It all adds up in the end. You both resounded what I was thinking thanks for your input.

 

[FloridaAKM]

Gimpy is spot on, do you want to work it or drive it? Paying for a good runner lets you enjoy the truck & work on what you want to(or have to) instead of doing all the restoration before can even see what it is all about to drive it around. I found a runner from a member here & love to drive/work on it when I have to. Taking her to work tomorrow to let the global clients see what the USA is all about. I work @ a homeland security facility by the way!

 

[nukem]

I'd offer scrap price on the weight on the data plate. That's what I paid for mine a year ago. I knew it had no brake pedal, leaking rear main and bad clutch. It's wo/w , has hardtop and staves and cargo cover with 74xx miles on an "86 rebuild with very little surface rust. Front six tires are new with nubs and rear four are 95%.

I added two $55 blem batteries for a Powerstroke and unstuck the ip rod and made it mobile. I've collected a clutch set, new full set of wheel cylinders, new master cylinder and new air pack over the past few monthes.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Its worth $1k at most with the unknowns. It takes a lot of effort to part one out or swap a motor. If you decide to swap the motor, it will need new brakes and bearings, none of which are cheap. As mentioned tires, etc, etc.



You'll probably have $6k into it after all said and done. Buy one running and known good for that amount.

Top reply, and sound advice.

 

[gimpyrobb]

There is honestly no way to tell about the brakes, bearings, or motor(really, anything that moves. U-joints, hinges, windows, etc), till you dig in. If your trying to be realistic, plan on them needing replaced. Any chance of a pic? I know it sucks to have one scrapped, but some times you are just better off.

Rebuilding can lose it luster after Months or years of not using it. Heck, my truck was down for a year while I did the head gaskets(and other stuff). It really got to be a chore!


If I wasn't able to look back at the fun I had with it, I might have given up.

 

[66m35a26x6]

OUT HERE IN CALI
IF YOU CAN EVEN FIND ONE THAT LET ALONE
NEEDS OR FULL OF BULLIT HOLES
YOU CANT TOUCH IT FOR LESS THAN $2k
good luck on it
there nice to have even if it just yard art!

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Ntirodiver,

Welcome aboard Find a bunk, stow your gear, and prepare to get underway



You're already getting good advice.

Have you looked at the MEMBER MAP (see top bar of each SS webpage)?
Your location is shown as TEXAS.... It's a pretty BIG state. If we knew a more specific location for you there may be nearby Members ready and willing to check out this Deuce with you. So, where in Texas are you? (Consider updating your profile AND dropping a pin on yourself on the Member Map.)

Standing by in San Angelo, Texas, USA.

Carry on.
John

 

[71DeuceAK]

Best of luck! I'll be following this thread as a mechanically ignorant newbie myself who doesn't drive yet who is looking at picking up a '68 M35A2 as a first, project vehicle.

 

[Nitrodiver]

Thanks everyone. Seems y'all just resounded what I was thinking I appreciate your honest opinions. I may throw out a bottom dollar bid and see what happens.

Unpon talking with the owner. It turns out the truck legally belongs to the FD he's Cheif of. He wanted to take it to his house due to no storage space at the station. Also why he's never touched it. Nothing underhanded just a part of the situation I wasn't aware of. I'll have to do some titling research to see what transferring the title will entail. If I happen to wind up with it. With my luck I'd get the truck and then couldn't get the title transferred in my name lol.
For those that care I'm in the Houston area.

Thanks again guys.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Thanks everyone. Seems y'all just resounded what I was thinking I appreciate your honest opinions. I may throw out a bottom dollar bid and see what happens.

Unpon talking with the owner. It turns out the truck legally belongs to the FD he's Cheif of. He wanted to take it to his house due to no storage space at the station. Also why he's never touched it. Nothing underhanded just a part of the situation I wasn't aware of. I'll have to do some titling research to see what transferring the title will entail. If I happen to wind up with it. With my luck I'd get the truck and then couldn't get the title transferred in my name lol.
For those that care I'm in the Houston area.

Thanks again guys.

TEXAS FMV's & VFD's...

There are different ways by which a TEXAS Emergency Services entity (VFD in this case) can acquire Former Military Vehicles (FMV's) for public service use.

1. ON LOAN from the TEXAS FOREST SERVICE - in which case the GOVERNMENT retains ownership of the vehicle (or equipment) and when the VFD's need is ended the vehicle goes back to the STATE. This is why on GSA Auctions' website you see MANY FMV's of former emergency services use and signage. These are all "turn-ins" no longer needed by the VFD's but now worn out, cannibalized, or sometimes in PERFECT condition.
These vehicles CANNOT be sold by the VFD because they simply DO NOT OWN them, nor hold TITLE to them.


2. DRMO PURCHASED - These are indeed OWNED by the VFD with CLEAR TITLE. They are released by Uncle Sam at extraordinary prices PRIOR TO being offered for auction to the general public. Entities MUST be on an approved buyer's list of sorts.
In fact, the Deuce we acquired as well as as the XM-818 5-Ton Semi-Tractor were both DRMO'd vehicles (see thread in my signature block). The Deuce was released in 1992 for just $1.00 to a Texas County for use by their County VFD. Some 20 years later they replaced it with an M35A3 and we got the A2 for CHEAP - in perfect running condition plus a spare engine and 1000 lbs of parts. The XM-818 is close to the same story.

SO....
One of your first questions SHOULD be.... Does the VFD have the TITLE ???

Good luck.
John

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, first and foremost, is there a title!

 

[DavidWymore]

Can turn the engine with the fan with difficulty, and pain. Wear gloves.

 

[rosco]

Your going to have into it, the same money or more, that you would have in a good runner, PLUS a TON of time. Do you have a good place to work on it? Even on a good runner, there is plenty of work to do on it!

We should make up a FLAT RATE BOOK, for the major jobs - brakes, engine swap, clutch, etc.
Time is a big deal & it might give a different perspective then equating things to dollars

 

[71DeuceAK]

Oh, hey, Rosco, hello from Fairbanks! Funny I should see another member in this area, I'm going to look at an M35A2 this weekend, may pull the trigger if I can find a place to park it. Let me know if you ever want to get together.