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Automotive Paint vs Behr

AVLLC

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New to the forum and to the community. Bought my first HMMWV on GP, just waiting for the EUC to clear. I’ve been reading a lot about some of you using Behr paint as a CARC substitute. Just curious if anyone has used automotive one part paint and how did it go? What would be the benefits in terms of durability versus that of behr? I’m just not 100% convinced yet on the behr house paint on an automotive application.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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With house paint touch-ups are easy. My paint job is over six years old and has held up very well. A little faded from being stored outside but it's still in very good shape. I keep small Mason jars with one with green paint and one with black in the truck. 1" throw away "chip" paint brushes make life easy. Just my 0.02 cents.

Mark20200428_192852.jpg
 

AVLLC

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What kind of Automotive one part paint are you considering? Nothing from an auto paint supplier looks anything close to military ultra flat CARC.
Haven’t found one yet. Was just curious as to the pros and cons of true automotive purpose paint versus that of house exterior paint.
 

AVLLC

New member
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Colorado
With house paint touch-ups are easy. My paint job is over six years old and has held up very well. A little faded from being stored outside but it's still in very good shape. I keep small Mason jars with one with green paint and one with black in the truck. 1" throw away "chip" paint brushes make life easy. Just my 0.02 cents.

MarkView attachment 908243
Looks good sir! Any issues with bubbling, chipping, etc.
 

trvctor

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What we are gradually figuring out is that the latest generation water reducible CARC is an acrylic paint and so is Behr/Sherwin Williams Superpaint.
Careful there. Behr house paint has nowhere near the same performance as something like an industrial or automotive paint (Sherwin CARC being one example). CARC paints are polyurethane-based, whereas Behr is a 100% acrylic. Not quite the same. I went ahead and played around with the Behr paint myself anyways, letting it cure for over 2 months and I can still leave a mark in the paint with my fingernail if I press hard enough on my aluminum paint lid that I used as a sample surface. If I go to one of the CONEXs on base and try to scratch the paint with my nail IT IS IMPOSSIBLE. Industrial and automotive paints (such as certain types of Sherwin or PPG CARC as it relates to this topic - they have different types), especially 2-part/catalyzed paints, are going to be rock solid and very difficult to scratch.

If you're planning to paint a large MV like a LMTV or Deuce that you don't intend to take out offroading and just plan to keep out on display or cruise around on the pavement, the Behr paint is a fairly solid solution. Premium Plus will give the flattest sheen. Considering it's the cheapest line and also looks the best (and seems to be more difficult to scratch, seriously) it is a win-win. Between the Premium Plus, the Marquee and the Dynasty, go with Premium Plus if you want it to look the most authentic. If you have a smaller MV like an M1030, LSV or CUCV that you want to off-road, it may suit you better to go with the real deal and buying genuine catalyzed industrial or automotive paint. Sherwin Williams sells the CARC primer, paint and catalyst that are all designed to work together. You just need to go to a retail store and they can get a business account created for you. I can't speak for the PPG CARC as I have not explored that avenue.

I have to say I really went down the rabbit hole with paint and was quite disappointed with all the hype around the Behr paint. It is not bad in a pinch, but it is not entirely the magic bullet it seems to be for refinishing MVs.

If you want a more affordable option along the way of catalyzed paint, although you'll be limited to flat black, there are 2-part epoxy primers and 2-part paints in spray cans available online. This way you can still have the durability of a flat polyurethane (which CARC is) without the chem resistance or military green color.
 
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