Auxbeam wiring question

[midnightshadow]

Ok, first thing this is my first post. So don't hate on me if I'm not knowing if this question has been posted before, or if I'm even posting in the right place for this question.

So I'm in the winter project mode. Hear is the list and lots of questions. I can elaborate more as responses come available.

Lights, leds 2 rear 150w, 2 side 200w, front fogs bumper 150w, front roof 1200w?
My wattage is estimated
I'm looking at installing an auxbeam controller system 8 switch 24v MAX 1200w 60amp
Reason I've decided this is it seams very simple to install primarily its fused and already has built in relays.
Here's the question, it can only handle 1200w total (at least that's my understanding)obviously the front led light I want to instal pulls allot of watts. can I install 1 relay for that light? use the auxbeam for my switch? If so how many watts/amps is that pulling, so I can calculate what available watts the auxbeam can handel?
Also for the acc. Power does that simply go back to the keyed ignition.? Also
My primarily +and- were is the best placement battery's, ground block, starter pole?
I hope these questions are kinda making sense hard for me 2 put things into words.

Next 1 going to install backup camera 12v.
Wiring harness has a acc.wire. I'm going 2 buy a cheap small 24v to 12 reducer. But how do I power it on and off? Yes it has a power button but it's only a matter of time before I forget that and end up stranded with dead battery. Can I put the reducer on 1 of the auxbeam buttons

 

[Coug]

What model of truck do you have?

Some of the answers will be different if you have a truck with a 3 speed transmission or a 4 speed, and 60 amp or 200 amp generator.

Also for your calculations is that each individual light drawing those wattages, or is it the combined total for all the lights in that location?


To answer the first question, the amount of amps drawn by the relay for the front roof 1200w light will depend on the relay you use. It won't be very much so unless you're getting close to the limit it shouldn't be enough to worry about.

The auxbeam setup likely doesn't care about the number of watts; it only cares about amps. circuit 1 and 2 can handle 30 amps, the rest are 20 amp
That means the first two switches can handle 720 watts 24V each, and the rest are 480 watts of 24V each.

For power there isn't any wiring up in the dash large enough to handle that type of load, so you will want to wire this directly to the batteries (with a fuse on the positive side)




To answer the backup camera questions, I see no reason why you can't install a voltage reducer on one of the auxbeam buttons. You said it has built in relays, so unless you start drawing more power than the relay can handle shouldn't be an issue. You'll have a little power used by the reducer, but half the number of amps being pulled through the relay that the 12V camera is rated for.
There ARE several cheap 24V backup camera systems out there that might be a better choice for your application to keep things simpler. The auxbeam controller product page does mention being compatible with 4 pin aviation video cable compatible with many truck/rv vehicle camera systems.

 

[midnightshadow]

What model of truck do you have?

Some of the answers will be different if you have a truck with a 3 speed transmission or a 4 speed, and 60 amp or 200 amp generator.

Also for your calculations is that each individual light drawing those wattages, or is it the combined total for all the lights in that location?


To answer the first question, the amount of amps drawn by the relay for the front roof 1200w light will depend on the relay you use. It won't be very much so unless you're getting close to the limit it shouldn't be enough to worry about.

The auxbeam setup likely doesn't care about the number of watts; it only cares about amps. circuit 1 and 2 can handle 30 amps, the rest are 20 amp
That means the first two switches can handle 720 watts 24V each, and the rest are 480 watts of 24V each.

For power there isn't any wiring up in the dash large enough to handle that type of load, so you will want to wire this directly to the batteries (with a fuse on the positive side)




To answer the backup camera questions, I see no reason why you can't install a voltage reducer on one of the auxbeam buttons. You said it has built in relays, so unless you start drawing more power than the relay can handle shouldn't be an issue. You'll have a little power used by the reducer, but half the number of amps being pulled through the relay that the 12V camera is rated for.
There ARE several cheap 24V backup camera systems out there that might be a better choice for your application to keep things simpler. The auxbeam controller product page does mention being compatible with 4 pin aviation video cable compatible with many truck/rv vehicle camera systems.

What model of truck do you have?

Some of the answers will be different if you have a truck with a 3 speed transmission or a 4 speed, and 60 amp or 200 amp generator.

Also for your calculations is that each individual light drawing those wattages, or is it the combined total for all the lights in that location?


To answer the first question, the amount of amps drawn by the relay for the front roof 1200w light will depend on the relay you use. It won't be very much so unless you're getting close to the limit it shouldn't be enough to worry about.

The auxbeam setup likely doesn't care about the number of watts; it only cares about amps. circuit 1 and 2 can handle 30 amps, the rest are 20 amp
That means the first two switches can handle 720 watts 24V each, and the rest are 480 watts of 24V each.

For power there isn't any wiring up in the dash large enough to handle that type of load, so you will want to wire this directly to the batteries (with a fuse on the positive side)




To answer the backup camera questions, I see no reason why you can't install a voltage reducer on one of the auxbeam buttons. You said it has built in relays, so unless you start drawing more power than the relay can handle shouldn't be an issue. You'll have a little power used by the reducer, but half the number of amps being pulled through the relay that the 12V camera is rated for.
There ARE several cheap 24V backup camera systems out there that might be a better choice for your application to keep things simpler. The auxbeam controller product page does mention being compatible with 4 pin aviation video cable compatible with many truck/rv vehicle camera systems.

Thank you for reply.
M998 6.2l 3 speed 60amp generator.
The numbers for the leds is just an estimate. Probably an overestimate at that considering I was looking amozonjunk. So I guess I'm confused and in need of some knowledge. Auxbeam state's (max power rating 1200w at 24v) 60amp. 1200w would put you 80% of max amps witch is 60amp I belive.

As for the backup camera. I've had a really expensive 1 on the shelf for awhile, so it's cheaper than buying a new 1 and converters are cheap.

 

[papakb]

One of the biggest advantages of LED lights is they draw so much less current compared to normal incandescent lamps. The relationship between watts, amps and current is calculated according to Ohms Law so you can calculate volts, amps, and power if you know any 2 values. In the HMMWV everything revolves around 24 volts so current is easy to find if you know power, and vice versa. Looking at the power figures you listed for the taillights for example the calculation would be I = P/V, 150 / 24 or 6.25 amps and your LEDs aren't going to draw anywhere near that. Even an incandescent brake light will only be drawing about 1 amp at most.

BTW, buying your LEDs off of Amazon is asking for trouble. Stick with a known good dealer like superbrightleds.com

 

[Coug]

your generator produces 60 amps of 24V, so 1440 watts of power (really it charges at 28V so almost 1700 watts, but you usually don't want to be running generators at max for extended periods of time)

The truck itself probably draws up to a couple hundred watts when using all the running lights and headlights and whatnot if you haven't upgraded them all to LED.
Plus you need to leave some power free to charge the batteries back up after starting, especially in cold weather, plus blower motor.


You probably are over estimating the amount of power for all those lights, but if it's anywhere close to what you said:
150+200+150+1200=1700 watts.

I think you are being a little greedy with how much additional lighting you want to add to the truck. You can spend a few hundred dollars to buy cheap LED headlights, or several hundred more than that to buy good ones ($500ish for a pair of the good ones with heated housings last I checked, but it's been a while) plus switching all the other bulbs to LEDs (though for the turn signal you'll need to either leave a couple incandescent or replace your flasher control module to one that works properly with LEDs)


If we were talking about a truck with the 200 amp generator then you'd have lots of power to play with, but with just 60 amps, and being an older truck to begin with, it might not be the most cost effective thing to spend a grand or more to max out the amount of lighting you can add.

I'd say that you probably want to keep the amount of additional equipment electrical draw under 1000 watts to keep from causing any overloading issues, and even under 800 would probably be better (in my opinion)
I don't have any hard facts or examples as to why those specific numbers; I'm mostly just trying to be conservative and not overload everything.

 

[ToddJK]

My only suggestion would be to run a fused power lead to a battery cutoff switch before wiring to any fuse block, relays, or switch panel. Be easier to do this as well vs tapping into a lead on the accessory switch and imo, a safer route in case there was a short or power surge, and further protection from possible parasitic power draws.

 

[ToddJK]

Also, I always measure things in amps on my MV. I don't care what the wattage is, amps is what everything is measured by down to the wire. Keep in mind, like the table above, if you do the equation correctly, so a light that draws 5 amps at 12v will only draw 2.5 amps at 24v. You could go by the watts if you wish, but it's worth adding a power meter and test everything to make sure, especially if any of the lights are chinese, they usually over estimate the watts from many reviews I've seen where people hook up a power meter and see the actual amps being drawn and when calculated to get the watts, was less than advertised.

You can add all the lights on the truck you want, but I would calculate the total amps drawn if all the lights are on based on confirmation from a power meter/tester. This will tell you if you can run all at the same time or not based on the generators amperage output.

On my set up, all my lights, for two rear, two military spot lights, two 6" amber lights, 4 3" amber lights, 2 4" flood lights, my total 27.9 amps and my generator is a 60 amp. Technically, all the LEDs dew less than advertised as I tested them, but I used their numbers anyway as a buffer so to speak. All lights on and my generator gauge doesn't even flicker, but I don't run no more than one set if the engine is off, also don't run my white and ambers at the same time, one or the other. I always kill all power to my lights for the last five-ten minutes to make sure the batteries are fully charged before shutdown.

 

[midnightshadow]

My only suggestion would be to run a fused power lead to a battery cutoff switch before wiring to any fuse block, relays, or switch panel. Be easier to do this as well vs tapping into a lead on the accessory switch and imo, a safer route in case there was a short or power surge, and further protection from possible parasitic power draws.

Auxbeam has individual fuses for each accessory + 60a main fuse, that works as a cutoff as well. granted this will be installed under passenger seat so day to probably won't be switched off. Winter storage months of course switched off. So in my opinion this should stop long term storage draws. Your thoughts.

Ok, so I have not received the auxbeam yet, IN the mail. I think the accessory wire to turn on unit has inline fuse. Being unfamiliar with m998 wiring were is the best placement for this wire. I was thinking of going to my keyed switch in dash. So being fused is it assumed a safe wiring location. I could wire a cutoff switch here also, but knowing me it would stay on all the time anyway. Toggle switch in dash ect. But could be switch off in case of a wiring situation extra safety, adding accessory ect. Your thoughts

The main +and- leads from the main 60a fuse plus cutoff switch what is the best way to wire them go to battery's?
I've seen we're guys we're putting in converters.
They said use ground block and what i belive is the stater stud. Large post that the + battery wire and Jumpstart wire goes 2. Your thoughts

 

[ToddJK]

Auxbeam has individual fuses for each accessory + 60a main fuse, that works as a cutoff as well. granted this will be installed under passenger seat so day to probably won't be switched off. Winter storage months of course switched off. So in my opinion this should stop long term storage draws. Your thoughts.

Ok, so I have not received the auxbeam yet, IN the mail. I think the accessory wire to turn on unit has inline fuse. Being unfamiliar with m998 wiring were is the best placement for this wire. I was thinking of going to my keyed switch in dash. So being fused is it assumed a safe wiring location. I could wire a cutoff switch here also, but knowing me it would stay on all the time anyway. Toggle switch in dash ect. But could be switch off in case of a wiring situation extra safety, adding accessory ect. Your thoughts

The main +and- leads from the main 60a fuse plus cutoff switch what is the best way to wire them go to battery's?
I've seen we're guys we're putting in converters.
They said use ground block and what i belive is the stater stud. Large post that the + battery wire and Jumpstart wire goes 2. Your thoughts

I would look at the TM's and verify what wire you want to splice into for the accessory on/off control with a power meter. The low current needed shouldn't mess with anything, but at least it has a fuse so that's good.

I'd just wire it up like an amplifier, or at least how they used too in most vehicles. The instructions are probably intended for most vehicles including those with stupid battery locations so that might be why it suggests the positive on the starter stud. I think wiring it directly to the battery, both positive and negative, would be more reliable and durable, especially with a cut off switch between the batteries and the unit and if you do offroading, it's easier to maintain the ground connections on the battery than perhaps somewhere else that may be a pain to get too depending on your set up and how your vehicle is loaded/configured, but that's just my opinion. Just make sure whatever wire you use is rated for the amps that the accessory system will draw, as if all on at the same time so it doesn't over heat/short/catch fire/ect, and most battery disconnects will easily handle that load, but verify it's load capacity before purchasing once you know your total load capacity in amps as it's all rated by amperage. I've always wired things in my pickups that way, though I never used a disconnect switch, I just added a fuse on the wire right next to the battery so I can pull it if I ever had a short somewhere, but I do have battery disconnects on everything in my deuce just in case since the generator tends to over charge at times and may create a power surge and I'm dealing with an old outdated wiring harness. I recently got a dash cam for Christmas so I'll be hooking that up in my truck, but when I do, power is coming from the lead side of my battery disconnect to a toggle switch so I can turn it on and off when I want, but it's on the main battery disconnect, so even if I forget to turn my toggle switch off for the camera, the main one will since it cuts the truck off completely from the batteries.