axle and brake questions

[bigmike]

I just finished rebuilding the rear axles. New seals, brgs, races, wheel cylinders etc. I also re-adjusted the rear brakes. I had drivers side seals failed so I had to clean the S#@%T out of them to get all the grease and oil off.

Questions
1) Do I have to have the truck running to properly bleed the brakes? I bled them w/o truck running.
2) Do I have to bleed the front brakes also? I did bleed the master cylinder first before working from the farthest axle forward.
3) I have brakes but it seems to be within the last 2-2 1/2 inches from the floor and the pedal can be pressed all the way to the floor.
4) When I gave her a test ride I noticed the drivers side axles were warm to the touch a bit uncomfortable when hand is left on. The passenger side rear axle a bit hotter than drivers side. The passenger front axle 20-30 degrees hotter than the others...pretty hot where you wouldn't leave your hand on but not smoking hot. Would this be a bleeding issue, brakes a bit tighter than the others or bearings too tight?
5) how much temperature difference should someone sense between all the hubs?

Is everything good to go and I am just over critical?

Sorry for all the questions but they all tie together based on what repairs I have performed.

Thanks all,

 

[Recovry4x4]

Bleeding the brakes without a pressure bleeder is a bit of a pain. You don't need the air pressure to bleed it. As far as the fronts, I would certainly bleed them. Weird things can happen and air might just work its way into the fronts as BFS tends to airate when pumped. The lower pedal may be a result of air in the system. As far as the brakes, I have a stupid question. The center pic shows no return spring. They are there correct? Did you adjust only the top adjusters on each wheel or do major adjustment with all 4? The hubs should be comparable in temerature. I would toss the jack back under and check for a wheel dragging.

 

[bigmike]

Recovry,

Yea, the springs are there. I just shot the pic after cleaning her up.
I adjusted the top and bottom adjusters. I used .010" and .020" shim at per the TM. I did think that wheel drug a bit when turned (before putting on the tires) but I re-adjusted the brgs 2X! Should I loosen it a bit more than the 1/8 turn as specified? I was worried I'd over loosen them.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Loose bearings are more of a problem than tight ones. I'd look more towards the brakes for the odd heat variances. I did have an issue on the wrecker when I put the brakes together. Go to http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7784 and check out page 2. it explains what I found about my bearings.

 

[bigmike]

Hum...loose bearing hanging up on a burr...
Well, I did notice more drag on this wheel drum than the others. Once she's apart, i'll check the bearings and the brake pads again. maybe i need to keep these pads a bit loser than the others.

I don't have a power bleeder so I'm back to soldier A and a chunk of steel as soldier B to bleed the brakes.

 

[JDToumanian]

Big Mike-
I did my rear axle seals earlier this year... The bearings looked good to me so I cleaned and reused them. (Like an idiot, I didn't do wheel cylinders and now one is leaking... grrr!) When I went for a test drive I noticed one hub was hotter than the others - like you describe - a little too hot to comfortably keep your hand on. Doubting my work, I pulled all four axle shafts and rechecked the bearing preload... All four were done exactly per the TM, and felt good with the wheel off the ground. After it was together again the test drive was exactly the same. It made me wonder if that bearing needed replacement...

It's been 8 months now, and these days all four rear hubs run about the same temperature - after about 40 miles at 55mph, the bearings are about 130-150 degrees. I don't have an explanation for the change other than maybe they "settled in". I'm relieved to hear that you got the same results with brand new bearings... I'm sure I would have too.

I would definitely check for brake drag and correct bearing adjustment, but otherwise I'd drive it without too much worry... keep an eye on it and maybe it will settle in like mine did.

Regards,
Jon

 

[ajg6989]

replace your bleeder valves with speedbleeders they are a blessing when working on a deuce by yourself

 

[cbvet]

I checked out the Speedbleeder site. Looks like a great idea. One of those why-didn't-I-think-of-that kinda things.
Anybody know the correct size for a deuce?
Eric

 

[bigmike]

Big Mike-
I did my rear axle seals earlier this year... The bearings looked good to me so I cleaned and reused them. (Like an idiot, I didn't do wheel cylinders and now one is leaking... grrr!) When I went for a test drive I noticed one hub was hotter than the others - like you describe - a little too hot to comfortably keep your hand on. Doubting my work, I pulled all four axle shafts and rechecked the bearing preload... All four were done exactly per the TM, and felt good with the wheel off the ground. After it was together again the test drive was exactly the same. It made me wonder if that bearing needed replacement...

It's been 8 months now, and these days all four rear hubs run about the same temperature - after about 40 miles at 55mph, the bearings are about 130-150 degrees. I don't have an explanation for the change other than maybe they "settled in". I'm relieved to hear that you got the same results with brand new bearings... I'm sure I would have too.

I would definitely check for brake drag and correct bearing adjustment, but otherwise I'd drive it without too much worry... keep an eye on it and maybe it will settle in like mine did.

Regards,
Jon

Thanks Jon,

When I built CNC machines we would rebuild lathes with similar tapered roller bearings. After fulling tightening them down, you would back off the nut and give the spindle a good WHACK both into and out of the gearbox. This would essentially loosen the bearings from the "compressed" position. When I have the wheels off i'm gonna check for drum drag and adjust brakes a needed. If I still feel drag i'm re-doing the bearings and this time attempting a WHACK affect by malloting the drum first away from the truck, to loosen the outer bearing, then back in towards the truck to loosen the inner bearing. I think i'm gonna stick with the stock bleeders for now.

 

[JDToumanian]

Eric -
I have Speedbleeders on my deuce, the correct part number is SB71620 (7/16-20 thread). They work great!

That said, I have since built a power bleeder from a garden sprayer, per Kenny's (recovry4x4) design shown in this thread:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3439

I find it even more useful than the Speedbleeders because when using it you are at the wheel and can see the dirty fluid and air bubbles going by, rather than sitting up in the cab wondering if you've pumped the pedal enough or too much.

Regards,
Jon

 

[cbvet]

Thanks Jon. Good info. After some thought, I guess sticking with the pressure bleeder is the way for me. I made one with some misc pvc fittings & flex hose.
In case anyone is curious (as I was), I soaked pvc, cpvc, reinforced clear flex, & some gray plastic valves in both Silicone & standard brake fluid for 6 months. No signs of softening or deterioration on any of the parts.
Eric

 

[Recovry4x4]

If anyone wants them, I have 2 packs of 2 Russell brand speed bleeders that fit the deuce. 7/16x20. Thats a total of 4 bleeders. $10 delivered too high? They will rot in my tool box.

 

[jwaller]

If anyone wants them, I have 2 packs of 2 Russell brand speed bleeders that fit the deuce. 7/16x20. Thats a total of 4 bleeders. $10 delivered too high? They will rot in my tool box.

I'll take them. pm me your info and I'll get a check out.