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In addition to that , if it runs just start the engine for a couple minutes to lube the trans and tow again. I seriously question going 100 miles, more like 30 miles as I recall.
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Very easy, at least mine were. pulled them out then towed my 1078 three and a half hours home, popped them right back in, topped of differential oil and good to go.are they easy to pop back in? I'm considering having my LMTV towed a few miles to get it off base then driving it home because they wont let you drive it off the lot
Then even though it is turning the output of the Allison and the back end of the tranny, it is not turning the engine side with the pump to stay properly lubed. With no pressure, the Allison may not know what clutch to engage. Maybe it could try to go into two gears at once... just speculating.no it is a planetary differential, always active
or start it every 30 miles to lube the trans.If the engine runs, just start it up and leave it idling.
Tow it as far as you like.
That towbar is prehistoric, it’s the baby one from the 1960’s.Semi-related: I picked up a little tow bar the other day.
Surplus has them for about $1500 (not including the box of included "goodies"). Too rich for my blood.
This wasn't though...
It appears to be the full kit. Never even seen a NOS full kit before.
*I've masked any indication of which planet it was acquired on.
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Ha I wasn’t poopooing the baby towbar, that’s all they had back in the day for 50,000 lb loaded 5 tons etc. I have used my baby one forever without issue on 5 tons. But I have seen many in the DRMO scrap hopper twisted into a pretzel.I know.
And I used on for the last LMTV recovery with no issue.
And I have one that is missing feet (which is no longer an issue so I can toss a set on it and find it a new home).
But this is mostly for moving trucks around the yard and flat towing my prerunner to the beach.
Will suit my needs perfectly.
But the box of feet?
That was sort of worth the $190.
I bought an M1078 from a guy three hours away for my towing business. I may have a bit of an unfair advantage owning my own tow truck and I own a bobbed M925 but I am new to these trucks and I researched here how to pull the axles so I could tow mine home. The information made it a breeze. I took a big pipe wrench, a 4" long 3/8-16 bolt. and a drain pan we use for pulling axles on semis with me and was shocked at just how easy this was to get the axles out of, and it was just as easy to get them back in. literally 10 minutes on each end. I'm used to having to use a sledge hammer to get axles loose sometimes. It was so easy I was thinking to myself "ok, what's the catch". Now I only pulled the rear axles because I was able to lift the front off the ground but I will say that if you plan to flat tow one make sure you have a stout vehicle with GOOD brakes. This is my 16 ton work horse, I was able to tie into the air system to release the brakes and actually use the rears that were on the ground to help slow down when needed, this truck is a beast but I could definitely tell the 1078 was back there. Thanks for the info ya'llView attachment 804844
.Do you think you can also do this with the 6x6 with the brakes cage? I'm buying a non running truck and I need it towed 50 miles and placed in my driveway where I can begin to inspect it. I have no clue how to get it into the drive without being under it's own power.
James
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The TM's call for a speed limit and maximum distance for pulling the truck without removing the drivelines. Caging the brakes is nothing more than releasing the shoes that are being held against the brake drums so your truck will roll.
BIG CONCERN is that if your truck has no gear oil in the differentials, being dragged 50 miles could "smoke" the bearings. I understand that money doesn't grow on trees, but it might be smart to investigate cost on towing it to your place. Several hundred bucks would be cheaper than the potential damage.
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