• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Axle Vent Anatomy

tsstout

New member
99
0
0
Location
Manhattan, KS
Yes remove the hump and the tranny and transfer are easy.

I ran all of mine to a manifold with a line to the air filter can and one to the front lock air switch. I have a "ford" switch which electrically opens/closes valves as needed during a ford. When the air switch is active and the ford switch is on, air pressurizes the system to a regulated 2-4 psi.
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
I am looking to get rid of my vents.

First question, can the vents on the T-case and tranny be gotten to easier by removing the hump in the cab?

I plan to run tubing from all components up into the airbox.

2nd question, pertaining to that: Do I run a different tube all the way to the airbox for each component, or can I tee them into each other and run only one line to the airbox?
You can get to the transfer case vent easily by removing the access cover on top of the "hump" under the seat.... there are only 2 screws holding the access cover on. The Transmission one I think you probably need to remove the hump in order to access. I recently replaced my vents with tubing and a breather (see here). If you want to try reaching up from the bottom of the truck to find the trans vent, it will be right in FRONT of the shifter arm on the very top of the trans.

You can tee them together and run all up to the front but that increases your chance for all of the vents to get plugged if the hose kinks or something. I tee'd my rear axles but ran all the other vents to the front (1-rear axles, 1-front axle, 1-transfercase, 1-transmission). Ideally you would have a separate line for each, but tee's are probably fine if you route the tubing properly so it wont kink. I'd probably go with a little larger tubing if you tee it all just to reduce the chance of something plugging it somehow.
 

Attachments

LowTech

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
972
154
43
Location
Arizona
Peashooter - I see that you run your fuel return lines in that snakey way, any reason?
And what's the set-up to the left of your vent breather?
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
Peashooter - I see that you run your fuel return lines in that snakey way, any reason?
And what's the set-up to the left of your vent breather?
The fuel lines came like that on my truck. I did replace them a while back and I think it just makes it easier to do since you can have some slop in the length of tubing between the injectors. If you dont snake them I think you have to be dead on when you cut the tubing and tighten the compression nuts.
The set up left of the vent breather is the low air shut off (or whatever its called) for the Air-O-Matic steering.... if the air pressure gets below 60psi it shuts off supply to the AOM steering. I also replaced my seat's spring with an air bag so the smaller of the 2 lines coming off the valve goes to the seat.


Does anybody have a link for the barb fittings, T-fittings, tubing, etc?Thanks in advance.
There are tons of ways to do the tubing some will be cheaper than others. I used 1/4" OD DOT nylon air line which you can get at napa. For the fittings I used 1/4" instant type fittings to connect to the tubing and the other end is a 1/8npt pipe thread. You can get these fittings at napa I'm sure too or even just get some brass 1/4" tube compression fitting with a 1/8npt male threaded end from Home Depot or similar store.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
You can get to the transfer case vent easily by removing the access cover on top of the "hump" under the seat.... there are only 2 screws holding the access cover on. The Transmission one I think you probably need to remove the hump in order to access. I recently replaced my vents with tubing and a breather (see here). If you want to try reaching up from the bottom of the truck to find the trans vent, it will be right in FRONT of the shifter arm on the very top of the trans.

You can tee them together and run all up to the front but that increases your chance for all of the vents to get plugged if the hose kinks or something. I tee'd my rear axles but ran all the other vents to the front (1-rear axles, 1-front axle, 1-transfercase, 1-transmission). Ideally you would have a separate line for each, but tee's are probably fine if you route the tubing properly so it wont kink. I'd probably go with a little larger tubing if you tee it all just to reduce the chance of something plugging it somehow.

I really like your axle vent solution!

Anyway, my question is, in your third picture I can see you've capped off the top of the manifold, but what did you place on the bottom of the manifold? I'm assuming it's some sort of filter just to help prevent crud from the engine compartment from going back into the axle vent lines, but it looks like a piece of cork! (Edit: After being on McMaster, I'm going to say that it is definitely an air tool muffler! But wouldn't mind the confirmation).


Maybe a help to others, and to check that I have all the right parts/fittings, I believe this would be the parts list(?):
(Note, this doesn't use a larger vent line even though the rear two axles would be tee'd together)

4 Port Manifold x1
4 Outlets for 1/4" Tube OD, 3/8 NPTF Inlet
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4785k21/=wmvwbe

Axle x3, Transmission, Transfer case breather fittings (5 total)
Straight Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD x 1/8 NPT Male
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5779k108/=wmwh1c

Push-to-Connect Tee Fitting x1
Tee for 1/4" Tube OD
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51495k134/=wmw4oc

Crack-Resistant Polyethylene Tubing, (probably the 50' or 100' depending on routing)
1/8" ID, 1/4" OD, 1/16" Wall Thickness, White
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5181k24/=wmw9b8

Manifold top plug x1:
3/8" Pipe Size, Hex Head Plug
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9151k73/=wmwch8

Manifold bottom filter x1:
Air tool muffler
Hex Style, 3/8 NPT Male, 23 Maximum scfm, 1-1/2" Height
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4450k3/=wmwkm4
 
Last edited:

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
I really like your axle vent solution!

Anyway, my question is, in your third picture I can see you've capped off the top of the manifold, but what did you place on the bottom of the manifold? I'm assuming it's some sort of filter just to help prevent crud from the engine compartment from going back into the axle vent lines, but it looks like a piece of cork! (Edit: After being on McMaster, I'm going to say that it is definitely an air tool muffler! But wouldn't mind the confirmation).
Exactly Valence, the bottom thing is a muffler for the reasons you mentioned.... and being paranoid that the bottom muffler could plug with crud I also added a hooded vent to the top of the manifold (http://www.mcmaster.com/#36635K38). I thought someday I may plumb this breather vent manifold right into the air filter but for now this should be pretty good.

I'm a big fan of using/reusing quality items that you can find inexpensively by various means. However if you do decide to buy these parts new off Mcmaster, you might as well go with DOT approved air brake tubing and fittings. (the tubing may not be any better than what you selected, but you know its designed for routing on the bottom of a vehicle, the DOT tube fittings are all metal and have a tube support in the center which is nice though). I found elbow fittings worked nicely on the axles, xfer case and transmission.

Here are more McMaster numbers:
DOT TUBING
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5097T41

Axle x3, Transmission, Transfer case breather fittings (5 total)
DOT Elbow Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD x 1/8 NPT Male
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51915K31

DOT Push-to-Connect Tee Fitting x1
Tee for 1/4" Tube OD
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51915K91
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
THANKS peashooter! I looked at the tube I picked and it does NOT list Push To Connect as a compatible fitting, and the other DOT approved hose and fittings are WAY better (not to mention the 90 degree fittings would be/fit right, where I had picked incorrectly the straight ones).

[thumbzup][thumbzup]

I'll leave my post so others can see, but I'm using your suggestions over my first picks.

+1 internets to you.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks