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Battery Disconnect Type

Andyrv6av8r

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On both of my trucks I installed a heavy duty 24 volt solenoid controlled by a regular keyed ignition switch. I put it on the negative side so that I can always leave my lights on and not have to fool with turning them on every time I drive the trucks. Saves the wear and tear on the light switch too.
 

BonesM923

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Polkton, nc
I have a question maybe one of yaw can answer for me I am installing a disconnect and I removed the negative cable the main negative that goes out of the battery box and just to see I turned on my battery switch on the dash the factory one and hit the start switch and it still started the only wire that I can disconnect and it not start is the positive but I have read I should use the negative but it doesn't kill power to the truck like I thought anyone else had this issue will I be OK just breaking the positive thanks for any info
 

Andyrv6av8r

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Location
Spartanburg,SC
I have a question maybe one of yaw can answer for me I am installing a disconnect and I removed the negative cable the main negative that goes out of the battery box and just to see I turned on my battery switch on the dash the factory one and hit the start switch and it still started the only wire that I can disconnect and it not start is the positive but I have read I should use the negative but it doesn't kill power to the truck like I thought anyone else had this issue will I be OK just breaking the positive thanks for any info
Don't forget that you are still getting a ground through your slave connection. You have to disconnect it. I put a disconnect switch in mine in case I need to slave the truck off.
 

m109a2

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lake charles la.
I bought one from those military guys broke the pos centered the battery box landed a switch there the key is long enough to not to allow the battery door to close so just remove it and be on your way,Works for me Al
 

steelandcanvas

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Southwestern Idaho
Don't forget that you are still getting a ground through your slave connection. You have to disconnect it. I put a disconnect switch in mine in case I need to slave the truck off.
Disconnect the slave outlet negative from the battery and attach to one of the mounting bolts of the slave outlet or some other convenient chassis ground point. Now you can break your battery negative going to the chassis in a disconnect switch and not have any power problems.
 
Last edited:

11Echo

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CT W. R.
Nowhere in that thread is the answer to the question that Iggy asked.

Also, the disconnect you posted is rated for 12vDC.
He asked what would work and I answered that.
Been using them on 24v forklifts for 30 years without any problems.
 

Dieseljoe3

New member
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Location
Northern VA (DC Metro)
I ordered one of the kits from Those Military Guys as you can see at the link: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...battery-cutoff-switch-for-your-military-truck. I tried to comment on their link but the site wouldn't allow it, so I'll just put this here. One thing to recommend that would be nice is to see pics of the "after" inside the battery box of a 5 ton...that would have been helpful to be included in the instructions. It looks like they used a "Pollok" switch along with two cable leads. The lead for the slave cable was re-routed to flow through the switch, I suppose to keep would-be "jumpers" from bypassing the switch. The worst part of the job was drilling the bottom hole through two layers of 1/8" steel...that took forever with my puny cordless drill. I like the switch and it gives me some peace-of-mind. photo 1.jpgphoto 2(1).jpgphoto 3(1).jpg
 

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whiskey357

Banned
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Location
chicago,ill
howdy and the solenoid hooked up to a regular car switch works for me as I had it installed 4 weeks after I got my m35....not so hot on electronics
....works great and came with a warrant on both items....also put new batteries in as that is something I do all the time....no problems and the batteries have a warren on them also..........Had 4 new tires put on it also.....now the backs look great.........mich XLT types....the guys at the Mack truck store really like me and my m35 a lot........270 for a full filter and fluid change with a free interior cleaning.....I wonder iffn I should go for the detail for only 150 saw a Mack tractor in getting cleaned up looking good.....One question for you all......on the slave connection in back should that be changed out or still used....thinking of going to a M101 type trailer....saw one on craglist for 450 used no bows or tarp....is that a good price???? thanks again for the information on this tread works for me...best of luck on your switch....
 
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