Beadlocks for 16.00's

[Lonnie]

Are the bead locks interchangeable for 14.00's & 16.00's on HEMTT or MRAP wheels?

I can get the bead locks from 14.00's on MRAP wheels, & would like to use them on HEMMT wheels with 16.00's.

Does anyone have the width dimensions for the Bead locks?

 

[juanprado]

I "believe" the bead locks are the same 14 or 16 but the alum mraps I have used had heavy solid run flats (like 100lbs each) not bead locks.

 

[jesusgatos]

Just picked up a set of MRAP wheels and haven't taken them apart yet, but the runflats should also function as beadlocks, right?

 

[juanprado]

Just picked up a set of MRAP wheels and haven't taken them apart yet, but the runflats should also function as beadlocks, right?

yes

 

[Lonnie]

I do not know if there are bead locks or runflats inside. I was under the impression that most are bead lock only, but my idea could be wrong...
The wheels are steel if that means anything.

I also found some other bead locks but do not know if they are the correct ones. Does anyone know what the measured width of the Hutchinson style bead lock should be?

 

[jesusgatos]

Dunno, but I've been thinking that I might want to cut-down the run-flats or replace them with something like these for 20" wheels. Haven't decided whether I'm gonna run 395 or 14.00 tires, but 395's with runflats on 20-bolt aluminum wheels are heavy.

 

[juanprado]

Dunno, but I've been thinking that I might want to cut-down the run-flats or replace them with something like these for 20" wheels. Haven't decided whether I'm gonna run 395 or 14.00 tires, but 395's with runflats on 20-bolt aluminum wheels are heavy.

I am still in the "acquiring mode" but like the safety x factor the run flats bring after seeing one of these bad boy o-rings up close. I would suggest using the 395 as the michelins I have seen are rated 70mph on the sidewalls and the 14 or 16 are only 55mph. That synches the deal in my mind.

Just think how heavier the same combo would be for a steel mrap wheel with a run flat........

 

[Lonnie]

The runflats are heavier duty, but this also comes into play when accelerating & stopping the vehicle. Rotational weight has a huge impact (more so than carried or towed weight) on the vehicle. The rotating inertia adds up quickly especially when it is 100-120lb per wheel. I'm just looking for the bead retention aspect for safety with low tire pressure.

 

[Andrmorr]

The Hutchinson beadlock part number is B3040 for 16r20 tires... they are the metal strip with rubber on both edges...The Hutchinson part number for 14r20 tires is: D4539-3 ...It is common for a 16" tire to be mounted with a 14" beadlock but it is WAY tight and is a lot of stress on the lugs and nuts...mostly because most guys do not realize the 16s have a thicker bead and there are different beadlocks...the beadlock for a 16 is 7.25 wide, and a beadlock for a 14 is 8 inches wide...that 3/4 inch has to be compressed and go somewhere...it usually causes the rubber beadlock to bunch up in the middle...not great but it is better than it would be if a narrow 16" beadlock was mounted in a 14" tire since it would not reach the tires bead on both sides and would be flopping around possibly damaging the beadwall from the inside, causing vibrations and eventually breaking apart since it's sheet metal... The Cage Code 62161 many mistake for the part number is the Code for the Manufacturer: HUTCHINSON, not the part number. That's why it's listed on both size beadlocks...
see pics for illustration... I updated this old thread in case someone is looking for information...

METAL 16" BEADLOCK -----------------16" PART NUMBER -------------RUBBER 14" BEADLOCK --------14" PART NUMBER

 

[Gunzy]

The 16.00s are on a 10" wide wheel and so are the 14.00s, so the bead locks should all be interchangeable.

 

[Andrmorr]

You are forgetting that the 16s have 2 much thicker beadwalls...16" beadlocks are 3/4 inch narrower because of that...if you use the wider 14" beadlock with the thicker 16s where does the extra 3/4 inch of rubber go to when you crank down the ring bolts? That's why it's so hard to get the bolts to seat...it can also give you a false torque reading BEFORE The outer ring is all the way down...