Behr paint prep on divots and rust spots

[therooster2001]

Wondering what people do besides completely sanding down the uneven spots that a little rust and or flakes have left before applying Behr paint. I know the Behr is self leveling, but I would think something like glazing putty might be the right thing. With most small surface rust, it was a quick wire wheel and it went right over it, but the flat surface on the bumper and a couple of areas need some help. I want it to go over the CARC so no bondo or things that won't stick to existing paint.

What works?



The chips and flakes actually go down to the metal, I had hit it with a rattle can until I could do the prep., this isn't a flaking layer adhesion problem..

 

[therooster2001]

Bump for the smart guys to help...

 

[Coffey1]

I would not worry about those places it a army truck not a glass smooth show car.

Both of those trucks knock the loose stuff off pressure wash and paint.

 

[Coffey1]

The one on the right this is what it looked like before

 

[theeDIZ]

I'd just knock the loose stuff of and paint !

 

[zebedee]

Wondering what people do besides completely sanding down the uneven spots that a little rust and or flakes have left before applying Behr paint. I know the Behr is self leveling, but I would think something like glazing putty might be the right thing.

Glazing putty won't go completely hard and it's oil based.

... but the flat surface on the bumper and a couple of areas need some help. I want it to go over the CARC so no bondo or things that won't stick to existing paint.

Why do you say no bondo when gone to bare metal?

If you need to fill ie., don't want to see effects of rust, the only real answer is to 1 remove scale, 2 treat rust (Ospho etc.) [or blast to cover both steps 1 & 2], 3 fill (bondo), 4 prime, then 5 top coat/colour as desired - Behr/CARC or whatever.
But as mentioned earlier, it's an army truck - what are you going for?.. a representation of an 'as new', fresh from the manufacturer (a-la zero miles) truck or one that has been 'patched' in the motor pool and thrown back out into the field - a "20 foot" paint job (looks ok from 20' away but don't get too close!).
It's quite "OK" to do rivet patches on 'tin'/bodywork/doors etc., as this is what would have been done whilst in service, equally, overpainted paint scale - layers coming off, steps of thick/thin paint are not 'smoothed' or filled, even trapped dirt/sand has been seen by most collectors.

 

[therooster2001]

Let me clarify, I know this is a truck. Not going for showroom here, it will be beat up as I use it as well. Just want to make it a little less obvious.

I also do not have metal divots, just surface and paint rust flake.

Most auto applications for a flake would be sand, get rid of rust, prime, then build up the layers. I was wondering if I spot build up those flake spots to a point where it would look uniform, or if the behr would fill them in. It's only a couple of spots..

And I say no bondo because there is already a layer of paint down.

Feels like slow build up, then final coat for everything. Thanks for the replies. I'll post a couple of pics to show what I did.

 

[therooster2001]

And thanks for the clarification of glazing putty, that would have been a disaster..

 

[fnpurist]

Behr will not fill in the spots unless you did a ton of coats. I would sand down to metal and bondo for best result but I'm sure there is a 2 part expoxy out there that is paintable and could be poured on proud of the divots and them sanded flush.

 

[fnpurist]

Minwax epoxy wood putty would probably work as it's extremely sticky and gets harder than a lot of epoxys I've used. Use a sharp wood plane to get the epoxy down to about a 1/16" proud of the surface and then sand the rest. This will save you a ton of time

 

[Rmtaunton]

The sanding disc on an angle grinder will make short work of it , just use light pressure and blend

 

[WECSOG]

View attachment 580739

The sanding disc on an angle grinder will make short work of it , just use light pressure and blend

This... Just blend the edges, and prime, then paint with the Behr.

 

[zout]

If your looking to level out area's with little spots in the surface use the equip they just mentioned above.

Then get a quart of a 2k Epoxy HIGH BUILD PRIMER. Its thicker when laying it on which you still have to flat sand to level. It will seal the stuff underneath and build up the top so you can work with it. Takes 24 to totally cure to sand. You need the catalyst to go with it. Its a 4 to 1 spray mix ratio.

 

[therooster2001]

Ok, closing the loop here. I used a polycarbonate disc from HF on a drill and blended it. So much better and it took like 1 minute.

 

[Spyderman]

Thanks for the ideas.