Bent tow bar ears question

[Bill W]

I took a chance a couple of years ago and bought a damaged med duty tow bar w/ 3/4" feet for $150 including delivery. I am finally getting around to try fixing them, as you can see in pic the ears are bent out far enough that the pin won't go through., I'm thinking that they'll need to have some heat put on them before attempting to press them back straight ...??...


P.S. If this is in wrong section...my apologies

 

[dmetalmiki]

When our tow bar shaft got bent we had it straightend after heating , then tempering at an engineering shop. You MUST be 100% carefull around damaged and or bent recovery equiptment. ANY doubt dont use it.

 

[rosco]

Use plenty of heat - orange color. Don't do it cold. Is it just one side that is bent?

 

[swbradley1]

I might fix it but I would not use it until after having it magnafluxed (Zyglo) for micro cracks or metal fatigue.

 

[73m819]

I would guess that after looking at it, that there is a very good chance of a crack in one if not both ears, right at the base, I would not use no matter what, it would not be worth the risk.

 

[country]

we have brand new, late style inserts, with reinforced collars for sale

dave

www.easternsurplus.net

(ALL-5160) Insert, Tow bar, Updated version with reinforced collar, NSN 4710-01-371-7292, PN 7551386-SV. NOS. $99 each insert

(ALL-5160) Insert, Tow bar, Updated version with reinforced collar, NSN 4710-01-371-7292, PN 7551386-SV. NOS. $99 each insert

 

[Jeepsinker]

Straighten the ears and beef it up on the sides and inside the radius with some good beads of weld. Don't use it without safety chains.

 

[OilfieldRoughneck]

I would heat it up, then weld some beads. As long as you use safety chains, it should be good.

 

[m16ty]

I'm not saying I wouldn't try and straighten but you need to be careful. If I'm not mistaken, they are forged. Strange things can happen to the grain structure of forged material when heated.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yeah I wouldn't heat it. It isn't bent that bad. Just put it in a hydraulic press and squeeze the ears back together, then add your weld beads.

 

[dawico]

So am I wrong to think that drilling it so the pin fits is a better idea than heating or bending it?

I don't mean drilling it much. Just enough to get a straight shot for the pin.

 

[m16ty]

So am I wrong to think that drilling it so the pin fits is a better idea than heating or bending it?

I don't mean drilling it much. Just enough to get a straight shot for the pin.

Then you're going to have a oblong hole and the ears are still going to be too wide. I don't think this would be what I'd do.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You beat me to it. With the ears still bent the feet will move around in it and cause more stress, eventually breaking it anyway.

 

[3dAngus]

I have scrapped several towbars for less. It's always painful to let them go.
If they ever looked like they were jacknifed, they went to China.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Looks like the one in question here just had the feet installed upside down. Not to take away from what you said Angus, just pointing out what it looked like to me.

 

[73m819]

The ends ARE cast/machined when cast bends it cracks, pressing the ears back in shape will cause more stress cracks, then welding good root passes inside at the radius and out side in the center of the bend will it self could cause some stress cracks unless the cast part is preheated and a very slow cool down.

You guys that say go ahead and use it just make sure you use safety chains have never had a safety chain event, let me tell you if you ever have one, you will never make that statement again, it is a VERY puckering event till everything comes to a stop, the towed load wants to pull you where it wants you to go, ect. The heavier the towed load the higher the pucker factor. Ask Mr. WM about the time he lost a tow bar pin for pucker factor info.

The ONLY time that section of tow bar should be used, is in the event there is nothing else and even then remember discretion is better then valor. It is not "is it going to break" but "what IF it breaks"., it is just not worth the risk to others, to you, or possible damage to the vehicles.

 

[swbradley1]

I would just cut the end off and lay it next to a good tow bar and mention quietly that you bend on me you will suffer the same fate. That will keep the good one in line.



Or use it as a paper weight. I doubt having it magnafluxed will help.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

I don't know too much about these things but I would say chop it of and get a new end fabricated for it (if you want/need). Even though this might cost a bit, I'm pretty sure it would be cheaper than the tow bar prices I've seen. Get some high strength steel or even some alloy stuff, torch out or machine the shapes, weld 'em together and then drill out the pin holes. At that point, you'd just have to weld the new piece on and call it good. And if that isn't enough, you could get the thing treated and hardened to be even stronger. I can't imagine that this wouldn't work but the question is, at what price? I know enough though that I can confidently say that it would be relatively easy to get new ones of these cast. You could even get an entire tow bar fabricated pretty easily if you had too (though it probably wouldn't be cost effective at that point but I don't know). If you guys give me some dimensions (or point me to the TM that would have them), I could probably toss up some CAD files of a fabricated tow bar foot.

 

[Bill W]

Thanks guys
I'm (now) thinking new insert(s).....why take a chance.
Got the Florida FFC rally coming up this March maybe I can score a deal on some there.
Again, thanks to all for their input

 

[NDT]

Thanks guys
I'm (now) thinking new insert(s).....why take a chance.
Got the Florida FFC rally coming up this March maybe I can score a deal on some there.
Again, thanks to all for their input

Looks like your towbar is one without reinforcing collars. Inserts WITH reinforcing collars are different length.