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Best Lift Kit for m1009?

bp m1009

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Somerset County NJ/ NE PA
yep picked it up saturday. I love it :) already did a little offroading in it first day i got it haha....getting new rims and tires soon the ones on it now suck...and i gotta go take some pics and put them up!
 

LeadHead

New member
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Location
Hardy, VA
I'm buying an m1009 soon.

I want to do a 4 inch lift also. I'd do blocks in the rear, but what should I use for the front? I have very little money to spend on it.

Are there ANY changes I will have to do? (extended DS, brake lines, etc)

Sorry to resurrect and old thread!
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
I did not lift. I changed the stock rims from 6.5 to 10 inches and mounted Mickey Thompson 285-85R16 Baja Claws and installed Firestone Ride-Rite rear spring lifts. I am higher off the ground without all the cutting, trimming, and moving steering and other devices around. Plus, I still have true self-cleaning tires. Any larger tires and I begin to worry about what I am doing to the little 3.08 rear end over time. Click on photo to enlarge.
L1000384 (800x592).jpg
 
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milke09

New member
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Location
blytheca
Hi I was wondering when lifting a m1009 blazer did you have to get a kit 4 a 3/4 ton or did a 1/2 kit work for these blazer that I'm assuming the m1009 are a little bit heavier.
 

milke09

New member
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blytheca
I like the 2 inch lift rough country but I don't like the lift blocks in the rear any idea on how to get the 2 inch off the rear with out blocks?
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,160
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
You dont have to get new shafts with a 6", nor a 8". I had the same exzact kit on my K5 and a friend had a 8" with no problems. Its not that much of a lift really.

I sold the same kit to Jcapplejr and its on the m1009 that he has.
You can generally get away with not stretching the driveline with a 4" but a 6"+ will definitely need to be addressed by dropping the transfer case or lengthening the drive shafts or both. You might get away with it on a mall crawler but the first time your rear axle drops out the driveline will separate enough to do damage.
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
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Location
VA
My solution was Ride-Rite Air Lifts by Firestone. They are $327 a pair. Air them up as needed. They sit inside the spring on each rear side between the frame and axle. One can use the same up front or simply add the recommended rubber mounts and realign the headlights. Higher and more stable than original.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
4,160
393
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
My solution was Ride-Rite Air Lifts by Firestone. They are $327 a pair. Air them up as needed. They sit inside the spring on each rear side between the frame and axle.
Okay this is straight forward and I have these on one of my trucks

One can use the same up front or simply add the recommended rubber mounts and realign the headlights. Higher and more stable than original.
Not sure what you are talking about here, what rubber mounts?
 

pmramsey

Active member
463
190
43
Location
VA
Using air lifts on the rear lowers the front relative to the rear...headlights do not align etc. The kits can be ordered with rubber front mounts to raise the front.
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
I know this is a 6 year old thread but I figured I'd post some questions here too instead of starting a new thread. I've been thinking alot about lifting my rig lately. I don't want much lift, maybe 3'' (just enough to run 33'' tires.) I've heard the rough country springs are pretty stiff and I know ORD is great and everything but they are way too expensive. Do you guys have any suggestions for front springs besides rough country and ORD? Something with some flex but not super rollover your truck kinda flex.
Can anyone tell me more about using stock rear springs up front? Is this a good idea?
 
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